I have pictures post on here under my profile of the rhino covered cladding,
The shop took the cladding off to spray, "took about 2 hours" I dont think iwould recommend spraying while on the vehicross.
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I have pictures post on here under my profile of the rhino covered cladding,
The shop took the cladding off to spray, "took about 2 hours" I dont think iwould recommend spraying while on the vehicross.
Hey guys and gals, one day my neighbor was watching me apply some stuff to my cladding when he wheeled his cart over. (he is a professonal detailer on the side). One of the products he pulled out of his cart was a product called "bumper care" by Auto Glym. It is only provided in detail shops and regular stores do not carry it. This stuff is especially made for our cladding. Goes on easy, takes about 10min to wipe on and only needs a little... Does not give it a fake shinny look but a deep semi gray look if u know what I mean. Even the local Isuzu dealer was impressed with the "new" look that this gives. After washing, no streaking is observed. I like the Ziano products, but after my neighbors cart of goodies, I now travel 15mi to buy my detail supplies... This Autoglym brand is a product of Letchworth, England
Mel
I still think I'm gonna rhino line mine. We did this to the brush guard of our "grass rig" (firetruck used to fight field fires) after 2 years of driving it through seasonal burning cornstalks and brush it still looks great. no fading, no visible scraps or marring. I'm sold!!!!
Mel, that sounds like great stuff - thanks for the recommendation!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman pilot
I just searched Autoglym…
LINK > Products > Retail Ranges > Retail Car Care > Quick Selector > Bumper Care
(They also have another plastic revitalization/protection-related product called Bumper Black)
After a bit more poking around I found a US distributor:
Radiant Auto Supply
P.O. Box 723
Brentwood, TN 37024
800-247-GLYM (4596)
I’ll be calling that number soon (probably today during my lunch break).
no matter how it's sliced, this cladding thing is a pain.Paint it, Rhino line it, or rub silicone on it..........I'm pretty sure they're your choices.
Does anyone else make anything like the Rhino Lining? I like the idea of it, but its not a uniform color: I want something as durable as a Rhino Lining but in solid black or solid grey, if it exists.
Take a look at Line-X ;)
I saw some stuff in a can at the local "Fleet/Farm" supply, supposed to be for pickup truck beds...hmmm, some masking tape & a paint roller... ;)
OK, probably NOT, Ldub
OK – given that the runoff from a heavy rain storm is capable of removing Mother’s Back-to-Black (at least partly, in the form of innumerable drip lines)…
Can anyone tell me how many trips through the local automated pressure wash it will take to put me back to square one?
After a brief attempt at doing some touching-up, I very quickly encountered the dirt magnet effect… I’ve decided I’m better off starting from scratch with something else (something that preferably doesn’t grab dust and road debris like flypaper!)
While I was out there dabbing-on more Mother’s (amid a fair amount of grumbling and cussing), the thought occurred to me that I should count my blessings that I hadn’t driven through a field of dandelions! --- I couldn’t help but laugh when I pictured my cladding covered in hundreds-of-thousands of those little white ‘parachutists’, looking like an angora sweater.
For the time being, I guess I’ll see if I can find one of the (locally available) alternatives.
(I got busy yesterday and didn’t have time to call about the Autoglym)
a friend of mine with a wrangler said he uses stuff from this site on his fenders, from what ive seen on his jeep, it works pretty well
http://www.autogeek.net/trim-molding.html
I don't know if there is any difference among the Meguiura's line-up of products, but the the #42 Professional Line Rubber Treatment goes on the cladding very evenly and lasts through several rain episodes and/or washings (with water only) and still looks great. It makes Mother's look weak by comparison.
One other thing I was thinking about with Rhino Lining and Line-X: they have no-skid surfaces, which to me means, basically, that they have a rough surface, making for potentially more wind resistance than the bare cladding (and potentially using more fuel)
Since the cladding already has a slightly rough surface, I dont know how much MORE wind resistance (and fuel usage) it would add. Anyone have any experience with that, or can make an educated guess?
Caring for the cladding is only as hard as you want it to be. I've never had an issue with Meguiars Endurance streaking in rain, then again I wipe all the cladding down with a clean old t-shirt about an hour after applying.
Here's a simple and easy way to get nasty cladding back to good:
Find a good shady area, preferably a car port, to wash the cladding. Use soft, clean cotton towels to wash the cladding with A mild mixture of Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent. This will get any grease, oil or was off the cladding. Once that's done, rinse very well. You can even drive down to the local self-service car wash and use the pressure washer about 3 - 4 inches from the cladding surface. You'll see what I mean if you do this. Then dry with some more cotton towels and if you have a super leaf blower use that to help get the water out of the crevices. Then go do something else for a while to allow the VX to thoroughly dry.
Come back and use a rectangular cotton applicator pad to start applying the Endurance Gold. Keep the pad liberally damp with the product and use smooth even wipes to apply. The edge of the applicator is good for getting into the nooks and crannies. Go do something else for about an hour when done, then come back with a clean old t-shirt and wipe all the excess off the cladding. This really makes the difference when using the Meguiars product.
That's it, your done for a few months or until you can't stand it anymore. :p
Don't leave behind any residue, buff the cladding dry after use. I must admit, in the begining I used to use it like tire shine and leave a shiny layer behind that would collect dust and streak when wet. It wasn't until I read the bottle that I learned that this stuf is meant to remove the crud from your cladding that makes it look faded. You need to let this stuff work its way in for a few hours then buff it dry with clean terry towels. I go thru several towels as to avoid redistributing crud. The results will not collect dust or streak when wet and last for months.
For those with streaks you are 90% done, just buff it with some clean towels. :luck:
Also avoid machine car washes. The additives tend to whiten the cladding. Use only plain water to clean your VX or any car for that matter :work: