K&N = Engine Check Light?

Ok, I have found what happened. While I was installing the headlights, before I put in the K&N, I had the cover off the air box but not disconnected from the MAF or tube. I had pushed the air box cover towards the dash and hooked it over the top of the fuid bottle next to the air box to get it out of my way while installing the headlights. I think this is the power steering bottle, I don't recall. Any ways when I did this I was not as carefull as I should have been and it put too much tension on the cable going to the MAF. Upon close examination of the MAF plug I noticed that one of the wires was loose. It actually broke the wire where the pin was crimped on.

Unfortunetly nobody in town as either the right 3-pin replacement plug or wire terminals small enough to fit. So I am going to have to wait until Monday to order a new plug or pin.

I'm glad that you found the problem.

Fixed it. I was able to remove the wire terminal and resolder the wire back on.

I put the K&N bask in and no engine check light. I took it for a spin and I can tell the difference. Under accelleration the engine even sounds smoother.

Thanks for all of your help!

BTW, Now that it's dark I'm going to go try out my new PIAA Xtreme White headlights.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mbeach

Not necessarily.
The engine only has one way of determining the correct a/f ratio before the burn -that's the MAF. After the burn you have 2/4 O2 sensors.

If there's a leak (air) between these sensors, the ECU can pick the most likely item. It finds the fault at the O2 sensorS (all of them). Since it is unlikely that both banks would simultaneously go lean, the ECU has the sense to choose the component which measures the incoming air to begin with.

Disconnect the intake tube from the throttle body and I'll bet that you throw a MAF code.

---

sorry, but that is not how it works.the computer has parameters and when it is outside the parameters it throws a code for that sensor.and the maf is not the only sensor it uses to determine a/f ratio. it also uses the air temp sensor . i agree you would get a check engine light if you disconnect the intake tube but it would not be because it picks the most likely sensor. it would be because it knows there is oxygen coming in (engine cannot run without it) but it is not getting a reading from the maf saying there is air coming in. and you would more than likely get other codes due to the maf not showing air coming in. besides when something is functioning properly before you install something and is not working properly after there is a very big chance (probably 99.9%) that you screwed something up. like pulling the wire to hard. when diagnosing problems you start with the simplest things first. shawn

If you read my first post, you'll notice that I said to give the intake manifold gaskets a look AFTER you're done with the MAF.

IAT sensor just helps the ECU determine air density (based on temp.). Unmetered air entering the engine (and being detected post-burn) will always point to the MAF. The intake gasket leaks are usually intermittent enough that they won't throw a code before driveability suffers. In fact, both of my trucks sprung leaks at the intake gaskets without a code at all.

If you rely solely on CELs to diagnose problems you're in for some long nights. Check the obvious, like you said, then check the likely.
If he had ruled out the MAF (could've just checked for continuity at the engine side of the sensor), where should he go next?

Having spent a number of years behind the wheel of a tuned scooby, I learned that CELs are only a guide, and not the be-all-end-all of engine diagnostics. Your statement "...if getting a code for the MAF then that is the problem..." smacks of finality, and will lead to headaches if you start replacing sensors unnecessarily.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mbeach

Your symptoms sound a lot like those experienced with torn intake manifold gaskets -after you've run through the standard MAF sensor cleaning, give those a look.

---

You mean the above post. Which is not the same as what you just said in your last post . Read your post again. Just cleaning does not rule out the MAF sensor.
If you read what I said " If it is gettting a code for the MAF then that is the problem. Not the intake gaskets. Either a wire is pulled out or a bent prong or it is dirty or covered in oil." And from another post " Besides when something is functioning properly before you install something and is not working properly after there is a very big chance (probably 99.9%) that you screwed something up. Like pulling the wire to hard. When diagnosing problems you start with the simplest things first." You check the things you may have messed up. If he had followed your suggestion he would have been changing the intake gaskets or paying someone to do it and would still have the problem.A broken wire on the plug. You need to rule out all the possible problems with the maf sensor not just cleaning it. And a quote from another of your posts. " If you rely solely on CELs to diagnose problems you're in for some long nights. Check the obvious, like you said, then check the likely.
If he had ruled out the MAF (could've just checked for continuity at the engine side of the sensor), where should he go next? " Well, after cleaning and checking for broken wires or continuity, he would have found the problem. Like I said before " Besides when something is functioning properly before you install something and is not working properly after there is a very big chance (probably 99.9%) that you screwed something up. Like pulling the wire to hard. " In other words the simplest things to check are the things you may have screwed up. I am not trying to argue I just do not like to see people pushed in the wrong direction. You have also said yourself that you did not get any code with the intake gasket leak.Well neither did I when I had a leak. So knowing what you and I both know, I would not guess the intake gasket. Shawn

I should have typed "...after CHECKING your MAF..." instead of "cleaning" -I was most likely sitting at my desk bitching about the cleaning lady and it just stuck in my head.

I don't like to see people pushed in the wrong direction either -I also don't like to see them pushed into just one direction. If everyone had only one answer, we sure would miss alot.

Your posts are really difficult to read -consider troubleshooting your 'shift' key.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by psychos2

You mean the above post. Which is not the same as what you just said in your last post . Read your post again. Just cleaning does not rule out the MAF sensor.
If you read what I said " If it is gettting a code for the MAF then that is the problem. Not the intake gaskets. Either a wire is pulled out or a bent prong or it is dirty or covered in oil." And from another post " Besides when something is functioning properly before you install something and is not working properly after there is a very big chance (probably 99.9%) that you screwed something up. Like pulling the wire to hard. When diagnosing problems you start with the simplest things first." You check the things you may have messed up. If he had followed your suggestion he would have been changing the intake gaskets or paying someone to do it and would still have the problem.A broken wire on the plug. You need to rule out all the possible problems with the maf sensor not just cleaning it. And a quote from another of your posts. " If you rely solely on CELs to diagnose problems you're in for some long nights. Check the obvious, like you said, then check the likely.
If he had ruled out the MAF (could've just checked for continuity at the engine side of the sensor), where should he go next? " Well, after cleaning and checking for broken wires or continuity, he would have found the problem. Like I said before " Besides when something is functioning properly before you install something and is not working properly after there is a very big chance (probably 99.9%) that you screwed something up. Like pulling the wire to hard. " In other words the simplest things to check are the things you may have screwed up. I am not trying to argue I just do not like to see people pushed in the wrong direction. You have also said yourself that you did not get any code with the intake gasket leak.Well neither did I when I had a leak. So knowing what you and I both know, I would not guess the intake gasket. Shawn

---

Is that better. My SHIFT key works just fine. Why would you move on to the next step before completing the first? Have you ever seen a diagnostic chart?If you do not check all the things in the proper order you will never find the problem! Did I mention that I deal with this stuff at work. I have been a MECHANIC for many years. Shawn

I just installed a K&N filter with no problem...the CEL has not come on at all (yet) I hope it doesn't either :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by whtzmbi

I just installed a K&N filter with no problem...the CEL has not come on at all (yet) I hope it doesn't either :)

---

You should be good. My problem was I wasn't carefull with the MAF wire under the intake tube and pulled the wire loose.

Now that the K&N is in I have been contemplating exhaust change. But I can't till my RX-7 is back from getting turboed.