brakes question

JollyRoger:
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The rear pads on my better half's car (Honda Accord) went before the fronts ........... techs said that was not unusual for that car .......
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I thought there may be an issue with the brake system ...... proportioning valve or something ...........
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while we are on that subject .......... my first car - a 68 Chevelle with a 327 4 speed ..... had over 100k miles on it when I purchased it ........ alot of highway driving ....... I purchased it from the original owner ....... it still had the original rear shoes ...... original clutch also ......

I LOVE having brakes that last and last... such a nice contrast to the typical car that burns thru them in 20,000 miles.

well...I just changed out all the brake pads today...After calling around I decided on Raybestos's #1 pads...cost me roughly $45 for fronts and $35 for rears.

My original front pads were immaculate with about 50% or better left on them at 38,000 miles...

The rear pads were similarly worn in that the inner pads (closest to the caliper piston) were shot while the outer pads (closest to wheel studs) were about as good as the fronts... I'm thinking pistons were hanging up on the inner pads, or caliper slides "sticking"?

I took the slides apart and wire brushed and flushed out the inside of the slide "tubes" with brake cleaner; then re-greased them with Raybestos 100% silicon grease while cleaning off the slide "rods" and smearing some grease on them. Also "Never-Seized" all threaded bolts.

I flushed out the caliper pistons with brake cleaner and sprayed some silicon spray after they dried...all wheels seemed to funtion normally after applying the brake pedal as the calipers seemed to
release normally.

I also siphoned out some of the brake fluid in the master cylinder resevoir beforehand to compensate for the pistons being in a more retracted state due to the thickness of the new pads.

Not too bring up an old post, but I just had my VX for annual state inspection. Rear rotors and pads were borderline to pass. The Isuzu dealer/service guy ended up replacing the rear pads and "resurfacing" the rear rotors because they were pitting. This was recommended to keep those brakes in check. So, is it "normal" to have the rear rotors resurfaced around 50K? And what does that mean for the future life of the rotors?

Plus, they pointed out that I had one rotor bolt on the front left wheel that was not screwed in all the way, just sticking out a little but not really harming anything. The service guy tells me he thinks it's stripped because he couldn't get it back in. Kinda strange since no one else had any reason to loosen those bolts before. Ehh who knows....??.

Okay everybody going to write back and say Im a BS'er. I have 143, 600 miles on this amazing car with original brakes , pads and roters, also spark plugs.

I put the Nittos on at 63,000. I pull a trailer on hunting trips.

The only warranty work was a bad CD changer twice and one window repair I was able to do myself thanks to the kind members of this website.

This car has me in awe...now watch all 4 wheels will fall off today

Johnhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...Photos_010.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...Photos_010.jpg

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Originally Posted by VX4EJR

Not too bring up an old post, but I just had my VX for annual state inspection. Rear rotors and pads were borderline to pass. The Isuzu dealer/service guy ended up replacing the rear pads and "resurfacing" the rear rotors because they were pitting. This was recommended to keep those brakes in check. So, is it "normal" to have the rear rotors resurfaced around 50K? And what does that mean for the future life of the rotors?

Plus, they pointed out that I had one rotor bolt on the front left wheel that was not screwed in all the way, just sticking out a little but not really harming anything. The service guy tells me he thinks it's stripped because he couldn't get it back in. Kinda strange since no one else had any reason to loosen those bolts before. Ehh who knows....??.

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I have about 55K on mine and my rotors are toast:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da..._rotor_BAD.jpg

I think it's the the road conditions, snow, slush, salt, etc....

The rear rotors eats through brake pads.
I'll get by until the new new rotors and pads arrive later this month.

oh, I'd replace the goofy bolt... It's a cheap fix for piece on mind.

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Originally Posted by rocket man

Okay everybody going to write back and say Im a BS'er. I have 143, 600 miles on this amazing car with original brakes , pads and roters, also spark plugs.

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I believe you! I'll be turning 100K in the next week and I've still got my original rotors, pads and spark plugs. Last major service I had the dealer take a good look at the brakes, and they said they were fine. Spark plugs and timing belt get changed on the next major service. I hope you weren't trying to imply that the same Nitto's have been on the VX for 80,000 miles. I'm calling BS on that one... ;)

Must be a Proton thing!

I had to get an Ontario inspection when I moved to Canada six months ago and they said all my pads were worn at 64,000 miles and they'd have to replace them to pass me. Anyway they didn't tighten or put in the bolts on the right front and the entire caliper FELL OFF onto the street on the way home. After 60,000 miles of perfect service my brake pedal falls to the floor on the way home from a safety inspection and repair. Grrrrrrr. Oh well I can't stay mad at the Canadians for long and it's been fine ever since they fixed it again :-]

Yep Cobrajet...80K on the Nittos...the tire Co that sold me the road hazard warranty (cost me an exrta $200) but it includes tire roation and fixing flats (first one I ever had about a month ago) Uses me as his salesman when I come in for the tire rotation. :gring:

But to be fair I log about 30K a year on this car and mostly on the highway so these are only around 3 years old. Heck I got 63K out of those nasty old originals...

I love this car

Heck I have 255K miles on an 89 4wd Isuzu Amigo...I still have it :rolleyes: don.t drive it much now...but this is 3 engines, 2 transmissions, 4 clutches and one transfer case and 3 sets of hubs later and I forget how many sets of tires...Hell my cars last longer than my wives :eek:

Here is some data i have stored in my noggin that may help people along. Some of this is VX stuff, some is stuff to be forewarned about from equivalent Trooper issues that I dont think many here have experienced yet.

Isuzu pads last you longtime! Also, their performance is superior or equal to anything in the aftermarket. They are proven, and based on my disappontment with some aftermarket pads on other vehicles, seems to be the way to go.

Rear brakes seem more prone to failure and/or faster wear. Currently my e-brake doesnt operate, and I have to diagnose whether my rears are even functioning at 100%.

*** LUG NUTS AND BOLTS*** Be careful here. It is a known issue that the bolts on most Isuzus are grade 8 metal. When you ever have ANYONE touch them. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THEY USE A TORQUE WRENCH. never let anyone do the airgun thingy where they just keep hammering them with an airgun. The reason for this is the use of a stronger, but more brittle metal in your bolts. With a little corrosion added over time, the person removing them will more than likey snap them. I cannot remember, but I believe you cannot replace a bolt on this rig. You have to replace the entire hub assembly. Dont have personal experience, but have heard of drivers having to sign waivers to keep mechanics from being liable for broken bolts because of this siezing upon discovery of this later on.

Even though your brake pads last forever, dont forget to replace your brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic- it absorbs water over time. water leads to rust, and rust will destroy your brake system if not cause an accident due to dimished performance.

Yes, Isuzus last a long time! At least when we could buy them. Sigh. My blue/silver 1988 Trooper LS I sold with 218000 miles, looked brand new. had replaced pads twice, clutch once, tires twice, and besides filters and fluids, never had an issue. I sold it for 5000 dollars back when imports had superior resale Dont know why that changed. Why did I sell it? I dont know. Been trying to find another ever since. My 1998 Trooper I sold (or my wife sold!) With never a problem. 98000 miles. Tires, fluids only service needed. 1999 VX 83000 miles. Stock brakes, 1 set tires. stock tires I didnt like their performance off asphalt. replaced early. Bridgestone Dueler M/Ts have about 50000 miles so far and look to need replacement soon. Only fluids done sofar.

On another note, has anyone else not had to replace a lightbulb in over 10 years as well? Between Acuras, Isuzus, Suzukis, and Subarus, I realized it has been since 1996 when I sold my last domestic that I havent had to think about this for over 10 years. Yahoo!!!! I know my mechanic skills have declined as well due to not having to do much but change oil.

:hat:

Im sure my brain will reach into its archive later, and Ill add important stuff as my rusty gears turn. lol

I hit 85k miles this week - upgraded rotors and brake likes (stainless) about 10k miles ago - still have the original pads which amazingly still had over 80-90% on them (bought new just in case and they are still in the box - I kept the original rotors and they are still good - just wanted something less likely to rust). I've never had a bulb go out either. I did have the passenger side rear axel seal go bad (leaked fluid into the brake - didn't notice it until I was replacing the rotor). From a maintenance standpoint, the VX has been one of the best vehicles I've ever owned.

-- John

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Originally Posted by t2p

t2p - who remembers the days when we would 'blow' brake shoe dust out of a brake drum - and it would blow back into our faces ...... brake dust that contained asbestos ........ oh well .....

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My father passed away from mesothelioma about a year ago. We believe his asbestos exposure came from brake dust. It is a horrible disease, and I would tell you to avoid it, except that asbestos is fricken everywhere!

As for the half-brakes, I have to tell you a story about my 1981 Dodge Aries K-car. Wow. It was a total piece of crap, but it was a perfect first car for a high school kid. After a while, the brakes started failing on it. The first stab of the peddle wouldn't do anything. The second would finally take hold and you'd slow down. This was obviously a Bad Thing, so we read the old Haynes manual and followed the troubleshooting guide.

First step? Does the brake warning light work? Well, sure it does. Stupid question. Next!!

We drained, purged, adjusted, etc. Finally, we pulled off the wheels and found that half the brakes were brand new, and half had nothing left.

It turns out that half the brake system failed, and the warning light bothered the previous owner so much that he disconnected the sensor.

Moral of the story: If you find that half your brakes are worn -- especially on the diagonal (left front and right rear) check the master cylinder. When it detects a fault in the brakes, a valve will isolate half the brakes so that you still have half a system. It SHOULD turn on a warning light, too.

Should...

Just a question for those who have either experience or had done work to disassemble front brakes, rotors and hub:

If you pull either front wheel off, you'll see the hub and behind it the rotor. There are about 6 bolts that run into the hub and either through or into the rotor. What you see of the bolts are the fixed end nuts. Question is, do these bolts run through the rotors and ultimately bolt into something else behind the rotor or do they bolt directly into the rotor itself?

I'm trying to resolve this issue of my mysterious extruded bolt and need to understand what is stripped and be prepared with parts. So, it's either the bolt is stripped which is easy to replace. Or, it is what the bolt screws into that is stripped which I am trying to figure out what that is so when everything is disassembled and repair is needed...parts are known ahead of time.

Also, just how important is it to use caliper grease when a shop replaces brake pads? Whether it is required or not? If they don't use grease, what is the downside?


Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

^

bump diddy bump....?

For what ever it's worth. Just did the front pads today on one of our '99's. They were original with 99,891 miles (Also, did the timing belt for $200, all inclusive). Replaced them with OEM for $119.00 for the pads alone, plus $37.00 labor. The rotors were fine, as is.