Now, this is an example...
of where a bunch of us split off. I am looking forward to my new 20's but I had to be assured there would be enough meat (rubber) so the tires didn't look anemic. Nothing against sam's ride but, like lowering a VX, it's not my taste. I believe there was a thread arguing this very point. I just happen to be on the side that see the VX needing more meat.
not to confuse the matter
But, i just put on 20's/9.5. And the offset had to be 0. So from the above post it looks like it really depends on the rims your getting. mine stick out about an inch and the cladding needed trimming.
Re: not to confuse the matter
Quote:
Originally posted by doubleadesign
But, i just put on 20's/9.5. And the offset had to be 0. So from the above post it looks like it really depends on the rims your getting. mine stick out about an inch and the cladding needed trimming.
That might partly answer my question of whether Bagheera still had some room to work with between the tire and the strut, etc then. It brings up a couple of other questions though. When you measured the width of your 20x9.5's, did you measure the rims from actual inside edge to outside edge, or bead-to-bead? Bead-to-bead is what determines the rim width spec.
And did you use the exact same tire size on your 20x9.5's that Bagheera did on his 20x8.5's, or something slightly wider? If you had to go wider because of the wider rims, I'd be curious about how much room you still have between the upper/inner side of your tire, and the strut and inner fender well/frame too.
Going by my calculations, both of your setups should stick out about the same distance from the face of the rotor, give or take a couple of millimeters. But if you measured your 20x9.5's from edge to edge rather than bead-to-bead, that would account for the 1/2" (12.7mm) difference you mentioned.
Then again.....I could be wrong. :mbrasd:
:D
