Clear Coat

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:naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!:

looks nice.... but man clean your cladding also...

One step at a time. I have 2 weeks till the car show. Next I am going to clean up the engine and undercarriage. Then the interior interior. The cladding will get a good cleaning with Meguiar's Natural Shine! Plus 3-4 more coats of Zymol! She won't be perfect...too muck off roading...but she'll be the best she's ever been!

Man, I can' t even tell where the metal ends and the glass starts.
That stuff is top shelf. I'ma gonna do it when the weather warms up. Triathlete/VXcaver, can you please post a simple list of all products and equipment used, as well as a short step by step for all who want to try this.
Thanks

NYC, Vxers, how bout a "Spring Bling - Shine up your VX meet"?

Nice ........... with envy ........ I really like the black ........
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nice job ... anyone that rides a Flite saddle has to be a good guy !

VXCaver is the man in the know. He did the buffing I only assisted (I kick @$$ with a garden hose) and did the waxing. The wax I used was Zymol. VXCaver used an electric buffer (Black and Decker) and the 3m liquid microfinishing compound with a Meguiar's soft foam buffing pad. I'll let VXCaver give all the details.

t2p...I've been riding that Flite a long time. It probably sees as many miles as my VX! Put a hundred miles on it Saturday!;Dy;

Bantan-
I appreciate Billy's (Triathlete) confidence in me, :rollb: but I was an just an airbrusher. Most of the time the finishing work got done by a pro. So whatever I share is sort of on the level of a knows-enough-to-be-dangerous wannabe, and others here will hopefully have corrections and suggestions. In your original post you mentioned acid rain, and I don't think we have that here in AZ. (Hope not. It sounds bad.) Is it worse than our evil sunshine?

Anyhow... The VXcaver and Triathlete Steps to a Killer Finish:

Ahead of time get: a) good polisher. Mine is a Black and Decker thats got hundeds of hours on it. It's the kind with a handle on one side, which is killer for getting into tight spaces. Also spins at variable rpms. b) polishing pad. This will only come from a pro auto paint supply house. I love the Mequires foam pads. The specific one we used was a Mequire's soft buff W-7000, 7 inch. You also need a backing plate, which doesn't come with the pad. Get that at the auto paint place, too. c) Polish. I saw some suggestions above that I wanted to try on Billy's, but the paint shop was closed so I went with my old standby all purpose can't screw it up 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound-Liquid. It comes in quart bottles, I think about $15 per. d) rags. Lots of rags.

1. Wash the car real good. Gotta get every bit of dust and grit off first. Even a little grain of sand can make a mess.

2. Remove the old wax. We skipped this step, on account of me not wanting to risk using my wax remover anywhere near the cladding. (I use a wax remover by PPG (DX330) but its not recommended for use around plastics, etc. Something crazy about static electric build up and sparks and devastating explosions....)

3. Fire up your polisher and get busy. Billy's clear was in good shape, just a little scuffed from run-ins with tree branches, so we didn't actually buff the whole car. We went at the bad spots. While polishing, I like to keep things wet. Kind of a balancing act, not wanting to get electrocuted while running the polisher. It's also good to wipe up the polishing compoud as you go. Done right, the whole truck can be polished in an hour or less.

4. Wash the car again. Cleanliness makes everything easy.

5. Start waxing. Billy Triathlete used Zymol. His finish looks almost like old-school black laquer -- deep and glassy. Very cool look. A lot of hard work.

Hope that's a little useful, and on topic with your post. Also, t2p mentioned finding an experienced person to do the buffing, which is right on. I can't really explain buffing technique here. It's not rocket science, but a little mistake can have consequences. If you do it yourself, go slow, keep everything clean, and check your progress frequently.

Later!

I've been told by my local body shop guy that waxes are "old-school" and that the new polymer resin products are far superior and last longer. He recommends Polymer II Paint Sealant Does anyone know how this compares to the Zaino products? Should a hand glaze (like 3M) be used first?

Hey Triathlete-
Great looking vx. Black is really tough looks nice. A suggestion. Your wheel wells. I hit mine once every 2 weeks with simple green. I use an oversized plastic toothbrush and then a knuckle grip plastic brush as well. I have a hot water faucet I attach a hose to and that helps as well. If you do that and then hit them with Meguiars back to black your car will look new, and look unreal. Nail those torsion bars too.... Just a suggestion for you. Hope your show goes well. take care

xdfarrx....thanks for the info. I don't worry to much about the wheel wells though. They are usually full of dirt or mud!;Dy; The show went well. A lot of people showed a lot of interest in the VX's. Pics from the show can be viewed HERE

Great pics- Triathlete

I'm a big Zymol fan too! I like to use an orbital buffer while applying though. It soaks it into the paint good and deep and lasts a bit longer. Cause god knows, it's HARD to keep a black car looking clean for long. ;)

Here's to Zymol!

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