Printable View
http://vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a.jpg
http://vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a_alt.jpg
Thats the one Rick did for me.
Installation is bolt one, with the exception that I had to file the case a slight bit because of the thickness of the coating.
the alt linked in the PlanetIsuzu link is NOT a direct bolt on or connector match for us.
John C.
Whats the point of having a yeller alternator when its position is in a place where nobody will ever see it?
Well, maybe YOU could find it easier that way.....
Another helpful comment....If you saw his rig or checked his gallery, his truck is yeller....
As for the alts that failed in Florida is was NOT the water - our alt gets wet all the time when it rains and is NOT the issue. Conductive mud and sediment is what takes out alternators like these - shorts them right out. Lisa took hers through a 10' wide mud hole just deep enough to get in the alt and it blew before we were half way through. On a previous trip to the slab, 5 of us went through a 50'+ long drive through the 3'+ deep river (Jennifer even deeper) at the Slab (several times) and all of came out fine in '99-01s.
I'll 2nd the concept that it isn't fresh water that kills alternators, but the grit and grime that make water into mud. I've had more than a handful have bearing failures (2 or 3 delcos, 3 Isuzu alternators), and two electrical failures along the way. There are shops that can rebuild alternators with better (sealed) bearings if that's what you have fail out of warranty.
I'd happily take a powder coated alternator housing. For some reason my alternators always seem to corrode more than anything else on the truck. I'm pretty sure that powdercoating won't effect cooling, but it is something to think about. Paint won't radiate as well as metal, but I'm thinking that the internals produce the heat and the fan cools them directly, not that the case is being used as a heat sync for the internals.
Someone around here must know for sure about the cooling issue.
-Tad
I want a yellow one cuz Yellow is more powerful! :winky:
Anyway,,, If Rick doesn't answer this post maybe somebody knows the part number?
Same Here
ahh but what color is the rest of his engine.
I'm willing to bet it aint yeller.
If you want to color coordinate everything, you should get it done in red, to match the coils ;)
But, wonder if he wants to match the firewall??? :p
my thinking is that he should make the alt red, since it provides the juice for the coils. If he wanted to take it all the way he could heatshrink all the wires in red to give it that truely ricer feel....
Tad brought up a good point... after I read that I went out and looked up at my alternator and sho'nuff its corroded on the bottom. Some sort of protective covering might be a good idea for this part.
(bottom of my t-case is also rusting, I'm not to happy about that at all)
My T-case just started rusting too - musta been the salted roads I was on this past winter.
-- John
Uhm,, aren't our T-cases aluminum? Sure you arent talking bout your tranny pan? :confused:
I'll take 1 as well. Where do I send the money?
Technically I'm referring to several parts of the drive train from the front diff on back (didn't think about the t-case being aluminum - hmf). I'm not sure if I should clean well and apply some naval jelly or go wiht some type of rust inhibiting paint...
-- John
definitely not the tranny pan.. I know that part all too well.
Its got dark brown stuff on it. I really didn't take the time to perform a spectrum analysis on the stuff, but I'm guessing its rust. I've got a couple spots on the frame and on the gas tank skid that are suspect as well.