I always thought I would swap drivetrains completely if anything ever happened, but I need the VX back up and running ASAP, so under $4k for a brand new 3.5L with 3 year warranty (and no cu$tom fabricating) does not sound too bad at the moment ;-)
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I always thought I would swap drivetrains completely if anything ever happened, but I need the VX back up and running ASAP, so under $4k for a brand new 3.5L with 3 year warranty (and no cu$tom fabricating) does not sound too bad at the moment ;-)
LOL I was kidding anyways bro lol That would be a whole lot of work, which by the way I would be willing to help with. I'm in the middle of swapping one into a 79 chevy LUV. Any how that's pretty cheap for a brand new motor. Turn Key or short block?
Have them check the new pistons to see if they have the extra oiling holes. If they do not contact Jerry and he can provide them instructions on how to add the holes. Also make sure they put preload on the cams when they work the heads, if they do not the motor will be VERY noisy and the cams will have to be reinstalled. Ask me how I know this......
Here is the thread that I started on how, and where, to drill the new oil drain holes. I got the picture and the information from Jerry himself.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=23047
In the middle of tearing my old engine down to see what made it fail, and I was thinking of having it rebuilt, Buffy, so it's good to know about preloading the cams (what does that even mean?).
Ryan, it's good to see that you're getting LittleBeast up and running again. Hope all goes well and that it's back on the road sooner than you think.
I asked the shop about the oil drain holes and they said all the new pistons they will install have this issue fixed but they will go ahead and make the drain holes on cylinder #6 even larger than normal. Also he mentioned that ONE reason we tend to get failure in the #6 cylinder 1st is because this cylinder is the 1st one affected by a faulty FPR. So if your FPR has had issues it may have damaged cylinder #6. Anyways this was the email they sent me before I went over there and took a tour of the facility, sounds like and looks like they really know what they are doing:
"Hello Ryan,
We are aware of the oil drain hole. If you like we can modify it for you at no additional charge.
Here is some information on this issue. Enjoy.
Today's late-model engines are designed from the ground up for inherently better oil control, operating with tighter bearing clearances, and lower total oil volume in the engine-so they're naturals for lower-tension rings. Ford Modular V-8 and GM LS engines come stock with only 9- to 10-pound rings. Meanwhile, in the extremes of pro racing, tension ranges from a NASCAR Cup car 1.5- to 2mm-thick oil ring with 2.5 to 4 pounds of tension to a 25-pound Top Fuel oil control ring.
The shape and profile of the expander's drain-back holes are also changing. The trend is toward larger, rounder holes in the expander; old-school expanders had little slits. "If you can see the piston's oil drain-back holes through the expander, the oil has a less restrictive return path," maintains JE Pistons' Randy Gillis.
Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...#ixzz29gZ1WhFJ
3.5L Oil Consumption issues
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Here's a paraphrase of something Jerry Lemond wrote in a forum topic titled: "Rotella T Results for Oil Consumption" from Aug 25, 2007 on this issue.
Starting in 1998 on the 3.2 and 3.5 Isuzu made the oil control rings less thick to decrease friction. They also drilled only 2 drain back holes on each side of the piston (inside the land). Why do we need holes inside the lands of the oil control rings? The oil that lubricates the cylinder wall comes from the crankshaft rod journal, where there is a hole drilled to align with a hole that’s drilled on an angle in the connecting rod that goes all the way through and exits near one of the rod bolts.
This hole is drilled and aligned in such a way that it only delivers oil on the cylinder walls as the piston is coming down from TDC and only on the major thrust side of the piston (which is the intake side of the piston), and why some pistons are directional and one of the reasons they have FRONT markings on them). As the piston descends the oil control rings job is to scrape the oil off the cylinder walls but leave a small amount for lubrication. If carbon begins to build up in the oil control ring area the rings are not free to move and function as they should.
The cure is to use a hi detergent oil but that will not break down the carbon in just 1 or 2 oil changes, it takes a lot more time. Rotella oil is a high detergent oil but it could take 8-10 oil changes before you see an effect.
In 2002 Isuzu addressed this oil consumption problem in the 3.5L by drilling 4 oil drainback holes. If you compare a late 3.2L side by side with a late 3.2 or 3.5L you’ll find a height difference. The 3.5 has a longer stroke, so the pistons are shorter in order to fit in the same deck height, the piston pin had to be relocated higher and the skirt was shortened by about ½ an inch to keep from hitting the crankshaft. The older engines had a 4mm wide oil control ring and 4 very large drain back holes on either side of the piston, the late engines have a 3mm wide oil control ring.
From J-Dawg dated Mar 27, 2008 of same thread:
If you are having problems with oil consumption, here are some commonly recommended steps:
1) replace PCV valve and air cleaner element
2) clean EGR system -- both valve and feed pipe that runs into the intake manifold. Check the FAQ or search for procedure. Be sure to clean the pipe.
3) Run a high grade full synthetic motor oil.
4) Run a high grade full synthetic diesel-rated motor oil.
5) Run a Seafoam or Auto-RX or similar oil treatment.
6) Perform a compression & leakdown check.
7) Rebuild engine and clean or replace pistons with newer designed OEM replacement pistons with larger and more oil drain back holes (your 2002 should already have them).
psguardian on Oct 22, 2010 in a thread titled "Burning Oil Fix for Late Troopers" said:
Issue: 3.5L burns an unnatural amount of oil, even with good maint.
Cause: Piston design flaw, the recess for the oil scraping ring only has 4 drain holes.
Fix: late production in '02 Isuzu changed piston design to include 10 drain holes in the oil scraping rings recess. (plus regularly changed oil)
Apparently the later 3.5L (some say later production 2002, others say all 2002 models) with the increased number of drain holds have a PCV valve that screws in. The earlier ones pressed into a rubber grommet."
The cams in our motors run on solid blocks, to adjust the valves you have to insert spacers to achieve the correct adjustment. So basically we have a solid lift motor which are noisy. To keep the noise down they put like a sprocket on the end of the cam. To put preload on the cam you twist the sprocket and take one of the bolts that holds the coil packs on and slip that into the holes that will align when the sprocket is turned. The bolt will hold everything in place. Install the cam and remove the bolt, preload set! This tension keeps the cams quiet.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
I'm in this to preserve my VX as close to factory as possible; just my way; I managed to get a new mufler and tail pipe from Isuzu earlier this year; all rotted out; before I installed, I painted them heavily; and since I was doing transmission rebuild, I had shop take off my cats, stripped them down to bare metal, primed and painted them to taking care to protect O2 sensors and wires; used new gaskets and stainless steel nuts, bolts, washers; love it!http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0800.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0799.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0796.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0797.JPG
Ryan,
Sorry to hear about Little Beast, but I am glad to hear about your rebuild.
Peace
Tom