Vicki needs a new heart...

I think you just answered your own question. Pulling the heads won't cost you a thing and could tell you all you need to know. If the engine is obviously in tough shape (holed piston, scored cylinder walls, etc...), it will have cost you nothing to discover that on your own. You'll still need either a new engine or to rebuild what you have but you'll have spent notta to find that out plus look at the mad-skills you will have gained by doing that much yourself. You may then find that completing the job on your own isn't so daunting after all, at least you won't be out anything; at this point what is there to lose? :thumbup:

I am definately going with a stuck exhaust valve and here's why... First, no compression! Second, code stayed with that cylinder regardless! Third, engine never smoked because the SeaFoam was expelled directly out that stuck valve and was never burned in the combustion process. The dirty oil is speaking also, why was there gas in the oil? Because it wasn't being burned in the combustion process either, no compression means poor, incomplete fuel burn. That gas was washing the oil off that cylinder wall and going back into the crankcase as a dilution hence the gas-smelling oil. That's my two cents and if you can spare some change back, I would appreciate it...:bla:

Scott, sorry but don't have any change to give back because this whole thing is taxing my brain.:rolleyes:

I really don't have, much, of a problem pulling the head off myself other than the fact that I couldn't get the intake manifold to budge this past weekend so I don't know how to get around that issue first. Second, even though she's running on five cylinders she is still my daily "driver". I guess I could put her out of commission for a little while and take the bus to work.

If I do get the head off and find that it is a stuck valve, then what? She's really out of commission then and I'd have to have her towed somewhere and there is no one here in my little valley that can work on her to that extent. I live in the Aspen valley, three hours from Denver where all of the engine re-builders/ replacers would be. Guess I have some thinking to do.

That does put you in a tough spot. Sorry I didn't realize your predicament, I'm spoiled by having too many vehicles except when it comes to keeping them all running! And yes, once you have the heads off and it is a valve problem, your best bet is to have the heads rebuilt by a machine shop specializing in that. You could do it youself but it requires some rather specialized tools so I wouldn't suggest it. Everything else is a piece of cake, relatively speaking, but time consuming and it sounds like that is what you're short of, well, that and cash. I have that same problem! Wish I had an easy fix for ya. Don't despair, you'll figure something out! Good luck...:luck:

I'm not sure but if it's a stuck valve you may be able to tell by just removing the valve covers, which should be a lot easier that removing the heads.

Does your mechanic have access to an engine borescope? He would be able to actually look into cyclinder 3 while slowly rotating the engine and see what is going on with the valve train. No need to tear the engine down if it isn't necessary.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rsteinmetz70112

I'm not sure but if it's a stuck valve you may be able to tell by just removing the valve covers, which should be a lot easier that removing the heads.

---

I was thinking the same thing, and may give pulling the valve covers a try this weekend.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cobrajet

Does your mechanic have access to an engine borescope? He would be able to actually look into cyclinder 3 while slowly rotating the engine and see what is going on with the valve train. No need to tear the engine down if it isn't necessary.

---

Don't know if they do, or not, but I'll give them a call and find out. If they don't have one, I'll call around and see if I can find someone who does.

Thanks for the suggestions y'all.

Both good suggestions for a preliminary inspection!

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

Thanks for the sentiments Jack. I may need to have you look into shops that would be willing to tackle and Isuzu engine rebuild/swap in the Denver area, because there are NO shops in my neck of the woods that even want to get near it.

I have been doing a lot of reading on iamironman's Axiom engine swap, and if my motor truely is kaput, then this seems like a great option. Again, just need to find a shop that would be willing to give it a shot.

I don't remember seeing the H3 engine swap, so I guess I'll have to do some research on that too. Want to keep the TOD, and don't want to replace the transmission too (don't have enough fundage), so definitely need an engine that won't overpower the transmission horse power limit.

mine was idling like crap and i had all kinds of gas coming out the exhaust - sounded like it was misfiring or something and i was about 2 seconds from pulling off the intake manifold - i replaced the $20 idle control valve first, reset the computer, and it runs awesome now - did you replace the spark plug after the cylinder was filled with gas? reset the computer?

Mine has been consistantly throwing a cylinder three misfire code, so I have a feeling the problem lies there. I have replaced the spark plug, and this past weekend I had the positive battery cable disconnected for most of the day on Saturday, but she's still running like poop. With no compression in the third cylinder, I'm concentrating my efforts there.

Haven't found anyone with a bore scope yet, but found a few cheap "scope" cameras on ebay that might do the trick for me to take a look in that cylinder to see if the valves are stuck open. Looked at the shop manual to see how to pull the valve covers off, and it basically tells me to take half the dang engine apart just to pull the cover. That doesn't seem to make sense to me, so I'm going to attempt to get it off without pulling the fan, fan clutch, timing belt covers and timing belt. Hopefully with the valve cover off I will be able to see if one of the valves is stuck.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pbkid

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

---

This is what I plan on doing. The 3.7 in my H3 is a great motor, as are most GM motors.

Mark, the 3.7 H3 motor will bolt right up to the vx tranny and tod will work fine. Very similar power wise and the electronics should be very close.

The positive is that the blocks and parts are readily available, but custom mounts will definately need to be fabbed.

If you need me to run to a few shops and talk to em just let me know. Whatever help you need.

The valve covers should come off. The driver side might be a bit of a challenge due to the master cylinder/power booster. Passenger side should come right off.