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DO NOT make the arm grip the track!!Quote:
Originally Posted by samendalk
if you try, you WILL break the Tabs on the glass!
THIS tension is what breaks them!
DO shim the track closer to the glass so the glass rests on the track "Arm" with NO tension!
The metal bracket, with the window bolts; is what I have been referring to as the regulator "Arm"
Yeah.. this whole system is pretty f-d up. Would it have hurt Isuzu to have a normal scissor mechanism What is the mechanism on the trooper?
Great tip Bulldoggie
thats certainly a different way to look at it.
I think you're right, so i'll give it a shot hopefully tomorrow, i'll come back with the results.
The window tilting down by the mirror while raising, is a whole 'nother Ball game.
For that issue, I suggest the many other posted fixes.
For that issue is caused by too much friction in the front glass guide!
a) too much friction from the front weatherstrip
~also a big factor in regulator speed!
b) Glass adjusted too far forward
c) Regulator track not aligned vertically with the angle of the rear window guide.
d) All the above and including the track arm shimming! Although b and c are almost the same...
The metal window tabs fixes the broken window tabs and keeps the windows working.
But, in my opinion
the TENTION that broke them in the first place is still there!
Just my 2 cents!
Wouldn't metal tabs be better able to handle the tension?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldoggie
yup, that's the theory for the metal SBC brackets, but Bulldoggie is correct, the tension/friction on the leading edge of the glass can still be present, so (in my case) I have to still keep the front vertical rubber track well lubricated with pure silicone spray a few times per year. My windows have never jumped the track, tilted or raised up uneven, so that is an additional issue some need to address.Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteinmetz70112
p.s.....are you closer to finding/buying a VX yet, know you've been looking for a while?
YES!Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteinmetz70112
but the tension will go somewhere else;
like the nylon guide on the track, the one that does grab. (Wraps around the edge of the track) would be the next part to fail.
The weatherstripping would wear uneven from the glass exerting pressure on one side as it goes up and down. would be a concern.
The window tilting in the front has many documented cases of weathersrtipping wearing though by the mirror.
But I'm not trying to scare anyone away from using them.
I do maintenance for a living, it's my job to look for reasons why things don't work like they should.
I tried adding washers to the top of the track but that forced part of the regulator onto the glass.
still working on it.
I'm guessing, that you know, that is too many!Quote:
Originally Posted by samendalk
The most important adjustment;
Is for the window glass to "rest" on the top of the regulator Arm's center pad (white nylon) while the glass is unbolted!!!
(so the window is in a "relaxed" state)
This needs to be checked with the Arm, even with the top track bolts
and again with the Arm, even with the bottom track bolts
and then checked again and again. (in the middle too)
in case shimming one, effected the other!
You might want to start at the bottom.
Once you see the arm able to stay under the glass all the way from the bottom to top without the glass bolted you will have the right amount of shims (washers)
Then you can bolt the glass to the Arm!
So am I to understand from this thread that the motor is not the real issue? I just don't want to spend $400 on a fix that won't even do anything.
Nope, not at all. It is a poor design/alignment issue. That plastic guide wears since the window isn't aligned, eventually it could burn out the motor if you forced it up without helping enough times. If it makes that bogged down sound, and dims your lights, thats a sign the motor is working too hard:)