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For the time being, I ran the amp ground to a paint-stripped/cleaned-up/dialectic-greased, front left of the four bolts that hold down the parking brake assembly.
It may not be optimal, but it was convenient and seems to be working fine. I had as many installers telling me that a body ground was fine, as I had installers insisting that a frame ground was necessary. I didn't feel like drilling a hole through the floor metal to affix the ground to the frame. I'm capable of doing it, I just didn't feel like it, and I used the conflicting opinions to support my complacency. All installers I spoke with, though, seemed to agree that the ground wire (4 gauge, in my case), should be kept as short as possible; no more than 9"-12".
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Drill ? 95% of the new set ups don't need drilling at all.All you need most of the time is scrap the paint coat at the closed bolt 'till the metal is fully exposed & attach the ground cable. For instant I removed the rear seat latches,scraped the bolt hole with a drill & sanding stone.Attached the two amps ground cables together & did the same procedure with the capacitor - cable to the front left net hook.
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yup, the shorter the ground cable the less noise you will get....
secondly it isnt necessary to run it to the frame, i mean, if you wanna do it then its a good ground guaranteed but not necessary by any means...
its a good practice to remove paint as much as possible...however, they do make star washers now that cut into the paint while tightening the ground and those make GREAT grounds....
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They also sell multi-level braided sheathes that go around your ground wire and completely insulate it from picking up sound. It's pretty much a faraday cage design that goes around a wire. Also works if your signal wires are picking up interference. That way you can route your wires however you may need if necessary.
