Window issue...AGAIN, sorry....Need some advice?

I removed the driver's rubber weather stripping completely to clean the old lubricants and gunk. I ran window up/down when NO rubber and it worked ok until midway, it was binding (with NO rubber strip on!). So that's why I thought my BACK/REAR track may be causing some binding, but with flashlight I just couldn't see where. I put the rubber track back in and right now, it's perfect with silicone spray. Up/down very fast. Passenger side looks like previous owner may have removed entire rubber strip....will be checking it out soon.

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Originally Posted by Gussie2000

Unnecesary you wrote ?

I don't think that any step is unnecesary to achive a deffinitive fix for those windows.

Most of us had come up with many ways & ideas about how to fix the windows biding & is precisely that unlimited source of info that makes the board a great place.

Again,no step is unnecesary if it helps the windows issues.KAT ask me to more explicit about how i did it & her request was responded.
If you carefully read my input i also added that "MY FIX MAY NOT WORK 100% " in your case & following I wrote "I HOPE MY INPUT CAN BE HELPFULL"

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With all due respect to any of you who have achieved some success with performing surgery on the rubber and weather stripping, Yes if those areas are damage then it would be Necessary to go in there and remove the damaged materials. If it worked for you, Great.
When I try to fix something I start from the original manufacturers starting point as built. So i try and see how it was supposed to be Before we started having problems. If the windows were consistently causing binding problems I'm sure Isuzu would have made a fix before they left the assembly line just like they did with the terrible '99 engine problems.
If you were replacing the body side cladding and the holes didn't match up you could "fix' it by drilling new holes. But that isn't the way it was supposed to be. So that's why I said all the cutting and chopping were "unnecessary" IF it can be done correctly.
But for anyone in a pinch I guess any "fix" is better than driving around in inclement weather with the windows jammed in the down position.

I think this thread is a better place for this topic than in my 'window fixin party' thread since it was mentioned here.

Two of the doors we worked on had no vapor barrier (VB). Those got the trash bag/duct tape treatment.

One of the doors we worked on had the VB still in place but it was completely covered with moisture.

If you have any doubts about the effectiveness of that VB or the importance of it, it works & it's needed.

While replacing speakers on Wifey's car last fall, the driver's door VB was torn & the OEM speaker was completely covered in mold.

It'll only take you 10 minutes to replace the VB if you already have the door panel removed. Do it.

When I removed my door panels to work on the windows, the VB was rather brittle and torn in some areas. I replaced it with plastic that I found at Lowes. Its pretty strong stuff, but to make sure it never ripped, I put duct tape on all 4 sides of any hole that I had to cut for door handles, cables, etc.

While I was in between stages on the window fix, I decided to give the VX a good washing. You would be surprised how much moisture gets through when there is no vapor barrier. I also had the door panels off so water got further, but I can only imagine how bad it would get with water getting in and getting humid.

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

:_thinking2) Also, vapor barrier plastic completely gone. I see fix to get some 4 mil plastic to replace, but is it IMPORTANT to replace the barrier? Is Carbon monoxide or CO2 a risk?

:grinp:

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Thanks Tom for mentioning the vapor barrier....I had posed a question about it at the beginning of this thread. Mine are both completely gone, now I think I should put some plastic up. Think moisture damage/mold is the only down side to not having them?

For the record, I bought a set from Merlin recently - they're ~$4.00 apiece...

Yes, I believe that it is only a moisture issue. Since it is not a complete seal (holes for levers & wires & such) it is not intended to be a hermetic seal to keep out any gasses such as CO or CO2. Those are taken care of in the basic design of the car (i.e., the exhaust is at the rear where it is directed away from the passenger cabin by the air flow around the car). That's why safety inspections are typically very critical of after market exhausts, particularly side exhausts.

I can't remember who mentioned it earlier in your thread but there are indeed holes at the bottom of the door to let water flow out. There's no way that you'll ever be able to keep water out so the best approach is to let any accumulated water out. If the VB is missing, moisture can damage the door panel, speakers & wires. If those holes ever get clogged, enough water can accumulate in the door to actually slosh around and spill into the cabin (sounds silly but it actually happened on my TLC). As JAMAS mentioned, a lot more water goes through that door than you would ever expect.

I have been reading all the window fix forums and am a little confused because I have never had the door panel off. On my driver door I have to pull the front of the glass up when closing the window (tilts forward). So with all the suggestions for window repair can you tell m what is the first thing I should try to correct my problem?

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Originally Posted by SomeBeach

I have been reading all the window fix forums and am a little confused because I have never had the door panel off. On my driver door I have to pull the front of the glass up when closing the window (tilts forward). So with all the suggestions for window repair can you tell m what is the first thing I should try to correct my problem?

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http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=window+tilt

I opened that site but didn't see anything on window repair. Reckon I'll just open it up and see if I can figure it out.

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Originally Posted by SomeBeach

I opened that site but didn't see anything on window repair. Reckon I'll just open it up and see if I can figure it out.

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I'm sorry Dude...:flower:

I must've been in a hurry & clicked on the wrong thread...:mbrasd:

Here's what I meant to post, I'll fix it in my other post ...

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=window+tilt

"what is the first thing I should try to correct my problem?"

UUMMM - invent a time machine & go back 2 weekends so that you can attend my window fixin party.

I have an extra bracket (don't ask) if you only need to fix one window.

My driver's window was doing the "tilt" thang too. After taking the door panel off, we noticed that the plastic window tabs were both intact, so we left THAT part of it alone, though I had the improved brackets "in hand". We solved the problem just by pushing the window ALL the way forward adjustment-wise; it now works PERFECTLY, and moves faster than a guillotine! I'd try THAT before I did ANYTHING, assuming your attachment tabs are still intact - just my 25 cents...

Here's another fix that I found on Joe Black's site.

http://www.antiquecaterpillar.org/vx...indow_Bert.asp

My fix included:

SBC Tabs
New Rubber all the way around from Merlin
New window guts except for the motor
Previous owner widened the front track just a bit.


Mine work fine.