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Raque,
you beat me to it.....thats what i was thinking also, but i think you have to chase the threads for the coil to fit, so probably back to just tapping the hole again, and getting a bigger bolt. oh well
good luck with it bart. i would think it would be cheapest to just get a gasket, a tap, and matching plug.......the plug doesnt have to be oem. just has to stop the oil from comming out
May be with the washer you had to replace the bolt itself?
I've never had problems with the AutoZone plastic washers at all and they also have replacement oil plugs/bolts as well. So for a total parts investment of less than $4 plus the oil you can determine whether or not you need to monkey with the pan. Simple. If your averse to a Fumoto installation, do as Chopper suggests and chase the threads. Just remember that there is a difference between a tap designed to chase/clean threads and one to cut new threads. These are simple solutions for a simple problem, too simple to be sweating pan replacement.
If it does come to that, pan replacement is simple also. Just make sure you have a new gasket and a torque wrench as it's all to easy to over-torque and consequently break pan bolts.
Bart, 162.00 for the pan...probably 15 or 20.00 for the gasket (they must be purchased seperately)....30.00 for a cheap torque wrench. You aren't gonna spend 200.00 on this repair. You will have to get a new plug as well...good time to upgrade to one of the easy drain types. Joe did an excelent step by step, complete with clear photos,(and his smilin' face) a while back. A ten year old can handle this one. Search tranny service. Don't be shy about this repair. Wayne
Well, it all depends on how easy it is to drop the pan, and also if that is not a process that could affect my VX in a negative way.
Bart
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raque Thomas
OK, just read the last couple posts from everyone. I'm gonna call my local dealer and Merlin tomorow and inquire about a new pan, gasket and plug. I like to take the best route as opposed to the cheap route. And if it is easy to drop that pan, then I shall. I am even willing to invest in a decent torque wrench to add to my tool collection also.
What brand/size torque wrench do you suggest I get for this job?
Thanks a bunch guys.
Bart
bart, if you do this please take lots of photos, i would like to drop my pan just to see what is laying at the bottom of it because my oil comes out with strange bubbles that make me worried there are metal shavings... so id like to see whats at the bottom of my pan
also i was out at sears the other day and was about to buy a torque wrench.. and a guy came up to me and informed me that hes owned two craftsman torque wrenches.. and they both kind of sucked.. and ive read a few bad reviews on their website.. i got myself a husky one from home depot and that has worked out well so far.. but ive only used it twice lol
Sure, I will take tons of photos. I can't tell you how pissed off I am!!! :mad:
Bart
Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
Nothing against the Fumoto valve Joe, I have one myself & think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread...however, I use the one with a nipple on it & it does hang down almost an inch lower than the bottom of the pan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_Black
In my usage application, every inch of ground clearance matters & any unprotected protrusion is a potential strap ride back to civilization. ;)
My (late) 2 cents...
I wouldn't do any tapping/chasing/helicoiling without removing the pan - that's just asking for trouble with metal shavings in the oil. Vaseline or not, you have no idea if you are going to get all of them. So if have to pull the pan one way or another, then why not just replace the pan altogether and get a nice new gasket.
Bart, do a search for "oil pan" before you start, though - I vaguely remember a discussion about a take-up tube that interfered with easy removal of the pan without removing the cross-member.
Etlsport - those bubbles in your oil can be caused by over-filling, because if you have enough in there, it can touch the moving parts just above the pan and froth up your oil like milk in a latte.
I mentioned Joes pix, stupid me...that was for tranny service. The oil pan isn't any harder. If you need to drop the crossmember, it's only 4 bolts...they look to be maybe 15mm or so. No biggie. The torque wrench thing is easy... Stanley...Husky...you don't need an expensive one for this. You CAN spend more...I just dropped almost 400 bucks on an electronic one that does torque angles as well as twist. Unless you plan on doing heads, or building engines, you don't need to spend over 50 bucks...tops. Wayne
My main torque wrench is a 3/8 Snap-On clicker that has served me well for almost 20 years. IIRC they're about $150 give or take and well worth it to have in the tool box, especially as you learn more and build your wrenching confidence. The biggest thing to remember about torque wrenches is to not drop them, as you'll need to send out for recalibration.
I've also got a 1" drive Caterpillar-brand that's about 4 feet long and good for a few hundred pounds of torque, but that's probably a lil' overkill. :p
Give me a big enough lever, and I can lift the world.
VehiGAZ, thanks for the input. I will do a search.
Joe/Chop: Have either of you two personally dropped the oil pan? What do you know of this take up tube VehiGAZ talks about?
Thanks - Bart
OK, I just did a search and the best info I could find came in this thread.
I PMed Tobert to see if I can get a little more info about his experinece.
So, it looks like it might take some time and a little muscle, but I should be able to get the pan off.
Now, my question would then be, how much worse might my problem get if this turns out to be a pain to seal? The last thing I want, is to have a leaking oil pan as opposed to a slight drip coming from my plug.
Looks like the job to fix this might be a little more than I think...but I guess that is usually the way this stuff goes.
Bart
PS - I have heard good things about the Snap-On brand troque wrench. So aside from the Snap-On truck, where can I get one?