Hmmm, I have only seen one tripod CV on all the Zus I have torn apart, or watched get torn apart. Definitely not a stock part.
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Hmmm, I have only seen one tripod CV on all the Zus I have torn apart, or watched get torn apart. Definitely not a stock part.
A lot of the aftermarket pass. side complete shafts are the tripod type including the Empi's (I have one sitting in my garage).
I replaced the entire shaft and the green cup and it ended up being tripod. I guess that is ok...I will just replace with tripod halfshafts if needed. I ebayed the entire full shaft ,with green cup for 54$.
Marlin How do you hit the joints in order to release them? do you broadside them? do you just hit the top joint or the bottom in order to slide a CV in.? Do you use a pickle fork separator?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Just hit the housing the balljoint taper sits in. You really gotta whack it though. Sometimes it will take two or three smacks. The guys at the ZU meet showed me that. NO PICKLE FORK!! That thing destroys the boots on the ball joints.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
Or you can just go to autozone or the likes and borrow a puller (u shaped with a bolt in the center). I beat the s#&@ out of my lower and it would not budge. Luckily I was replacing it because it would not have been reusable. Went and borrowed the puller from autozone and it took less than 3 minutes. When it "popped" it was like a firecracker went off...as a matter of fact I thought the tool had broke or something. It was in there good!:yesy:
ok I hate to be that guy because I loved my vx to the moon and back but this thread really makes me happy to have a toyota. Parts galore. I just tore one of my ball joint boots replacing my front end. $20 out of a junkyard.
Thanks. I will try that method. I have been removing the 4 lower ball joint bolts in its bracket then flip the whole assembly upward to remove cv's. I stripped a bolt when reattaching last week.
The threaded shaft on the ball joint is fairly soft material. I booger'd mine slightly when I was trying to get mine to release. It was still useable though.
When I was working on CSTYLES later on, we completely destroyed his. Luckly he was able to locate a replacement Center Link. He later took it over to a buddy of his just to see what it would take to get it apart. After torching it & pounding on it with a 3lbs mallet ... still wouldn't budge. By this time, the shaft had been cut off flush with the flange. They were finally able to press it out with a large press.
The bottom line is that it's a poor design for maintenance. The shaft is actually conical ... that part's normal. But the angle on the cone is too shallow ... that's the design flaw. I saw this before on a bracket we were making to mount a Thermal Imager on the MK-19. If that angle is too shallow, it only takes a small amount of force to get it wedged in there permanent like.
After saying all that, I really only have 3 points to make:
1. Do NOT use a ball joint fork. That tool will only work when you really don't need it anyway (could've gotten it apart by other means). It WILL destroy the boot which is hard to replace. Isuzu only sells them as part of the center link.
2. If you are trying to break the ball joints, remove the cotter pin and the castle nut, then put the castle nut back on upside down & thread it on until the shaft is even with the base of the castle nut. This will protect the threads and the cotter pin hole. It will also give you a larger area for pressing/pounding.
3. If/when you get it apart, apply some anti-sieze to the shaft during reassembly. You can pick it up at hardware stores or at Radio Shack. It'll keep you from fighting that battle again if you need to break that ball joint again. If you can't find anti-sieze, lemme know. I've got a big bottle (6 lifetime supplies) at home & will happily send you a small amount.
Tom
Changed the oil, filter, and PCV valve. Lube the window tracks and top off all the fluids.
Got my blanks from Marlin and filled in the open space on the three switch bezel that houses my fog/driving light switch
Gave her a quick wash and replaced my 3.5L emblem that was wearing thin...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
Over the weekend I'll be working on adding a rear dome light to the VX...can't wait...more wiring!
What brand of PCV valve are you using these days?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
What other brands are you all using?
Don't have much confidence in Purolator 1061 any more since they changed the design, just a feeling, can't prove anything.
It's a Microguard brand. Part number is 384. I pick it up when I buy the Wix filter at my local O'Reilley's auto parts store. It's my second one and the one I pulled today rattled and sounded just the new one I put in. It's plastic and the base is blue and the upper portion is black/dark brown...hope that helps. I don't use any oil so I'm calling it good to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
The old Purolator PV1061 looked like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...rt-pv1061.html
The revised Purolator is now blue/brown. This is a "Fram", but it looks just like the Purolator and it says it fits the VX...probably sourced from the same supplier/manufacturer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fram-...#ht_1475wt_931
Interesting....on the Purolator site, they ONLY show the older black style...wonder if they've gone back to it? :_thinking
I think I'll try a Microguard....my Purolators don't sound the same as new when I remove them. But I only use some oil when on prolonged/high rev highway driving 8+ hrs.
I've replaced my pvc valve once in 80,000+ miles and still burn zero oil! :bwgy:
Maybe I'll splurge and replace it again...
...at 200,000!:rotate:
+1, not as many miles though. Bought it at 24K and haven't replaced the PVC valve yet at 65K+ (unless the garage did it at one of the factory maintenance intervals). There's a lot to read on here about replacing it, but from my experience I just don't see what the big deal is. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
This is my second one (hey second oil change for me) and I did it just from reading the post.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
I'll not be replacing it with every oil change unless something happens to change my mind...like starting to use some oil.
I'd read so many folks found that it had stuck open and allowed oil to be sucked out. It is intimidating when you remove the old one and it doesn't rattle much or at all...they say that means it's not functioning correctly. I guess I just look at it as cheap insurance. But then again, I wasn't using any oil when I removed malfunctioning ones....:confused: so maybe it's a hit or miss thing?
Doesn't a faulty PCV throw a CEL or engine code? Is leaking oil the only sign you'd ever get that your PCV had gone bad?
added to the cargo area of the VX...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
Just a little trimming to do tomorrow to make it square with the front one.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../DSCN03281.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0327.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0326.JPG
Hey, that came out pretty good! What are you gonna do with the smaller light?
Just got my center console arm rest re-covered and installed - images up in anohter post later today.
-- John
Thought about making a underhood light from it but not sure it can stand the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Any thoughts?
Nothing as adventurous as you guys, just changed the oil/filter in both the VX and Axiom. AutoZone was running a special on Pennzoil Platinum + K&N filters for $30, so I decided to try that combo out. Read a few reviews that said PP was better than Amsoil or Mobil 1 so I guess we'll see, as always consumption is my measuring stick.
:luck:
Installed LED fog lights last night, super easy, took about 20 minutes tops (mostly due to washing the grease off my hands before handling the LEDs). Also installed the new JAMAS rear door cargo box. :naughty: Will post pics this weekend after I make a few minor modifications...
seafoamed, Mobil1 oil change, cleaned k&n filter, replaced pcv, cleaned headlights with 3m restore kit, replaced EGR gasket, cleaned EGR.
Replacing an out of balance driveshaft.
just had my exaust .fixed.. the flang next to the pass/ manafold broke off .....had to be removes and re welded...they did a triple weld ...heard the problem was a design flaw.....it took a day .but im happy again..:work:
Finally got warm enough Sunday to do a proper hand wash. I didn't get a chance to do wax and tire black, but since I'm traveling all week I should be able to pull her back out of the garage Saturday to finish up. Contemplating doing another coat of TS-1 too since the snow/ice/salt eroded it a little faster than normal. I can't remember how long it's been since I applied it last, I'll have to check my post history to see if it lasted 2-3 months as advertised.
Lost my belt coming home from the airport last night. The blessing is that I was three blocks from home and it was 5 degrees, so no worries. Forgot how much fun oversize tires and rims can be with no power steering...ha!
Here is what the pulley looked like when I pulled it out.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0345.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0346.JPG
The smaller piece is supposed to be inside the large piece and it rotates on ball bearings...those all used to be round like the few that are left.
$50 for a pulley and a belt and we're back on the road.
Installed and working...WooHoo.
Waiting on a OEM release button so using the supplied one for now. Working on hooking up to my compuSTAR alarm so it will work remotely.
I posted pics over in the Tips section.
Flip-flopped my seats. I figure if it took 100K miles for the first one to start showing signs of wear, then I should be good to go for a while with the "new" one.
No more tilt/slide on the passenger side, but I try not to put anyone in my back seat anyhow.
Pretty big weekend... replaced the fog lamps, "triangle" fender markers, and rear quarter panel markers with LEDs and put in a pair of Daystar coil spacers (and cranked the t-bars accordingly) for about a 1-1.5" lift. Couldn't have done it without help from Billy (yellowgizmo99) - and by "help" I mean "allowed me to hold the tools and grab lunch for him while he did almost everything." :o As he said though, there's value to trying something out on someone else's vehicle first. :p
I also put on my second application of TS-1 / Armordillo. The last time I applied it was mid-November, and that was really just a touch-up of my first application back in October. The cladding definitely needed to be done, but it was nowhere even close to what you'd expect for a daily-driver that hadn't been touched (other than automatic car washes between snows) for three months. Put on a nice thick coat of TS-1 this afternoon and it looks great, hopefully won't have to touch it until May!
Thanks again Billy!!! :D :thumbup:
Btw if you were wondering what the big deal was about installing a few LED bulbs, it was much more than that. Following my escapade of burning out fog light LEDs every few hours, I ordered what Autoillumination terms "LED protectors" this time around. (They're basically just resistors that you attach to the ground wire coming from each socket.) Rather than using the simple snap-together connectors, Billy insisted that we "do it right" and solder and heat-shrink wrap the connections instead. So that's two connections per bulb that have to be soldered, which adds up to a much longer installation process.
after doing Ashley's lift last weekend decided to do mine also, not bad for $40, still tring to work out the winch mount.
Installing the OEM Tailgate switch for my rear door popper and dong the rear door cover dowels (just as a preventative measure).
Installed RS9000XL's, Treadwright 245/75/16 Warden's. Next frontend bearings and rotors.
Hunting for wounds that are leaking goblin blood. Recently been finding very small wet spots under the VX after driving it and letting it sit. They started to get a little larger and then notices the other night that when I opened the radiator, I could not see fluid at all now. Doesn't leak when it's been sitting for a while. Must only be leaking out at operating temps and stops when cool. First glance, seen nothing in the engine bay, only beneath. Let the hunt begin!
I'm finally finishing a ton of IFS/brake work this week. I added a 2" diff drop, brand new aftermarket CVs (inner&out), repacked the bearings, replaced the brake rotors & pads, painted the brake calipers, installed low profile front bump stops, installed new ball joints & replaced the ABS module. My VX has been in the garage for about two weeks, can't wait to get her on the road again!
God bless all my VX brothers and sisters slavin' away over their VX's whilst mine sits languishing in the garage 'cuz [I]IT'S TOO DAMN COLD TO WORK ON IT NOW!!! [I
Can't wait 'till things warm up a bit, or I get a heated garage...
Put in a new stereo, cheap Pioneer DEH-1300 ($70 at BB) with aux stereo in. Install was really easy, harness and antenna extender were at Car Toys. All said and done, $116 for the stereo and parts, including crimps and a crimper.