You should see it Sue.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
It has a smile from cheek to cheek.;ooo;:naughty::naughty::thumbup::thumbup:
PK
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You should see it Sue.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
It has a smile from cheek to cheek.;ooo;:naughty::naughty::thumbup::thumbup:
PK
:laugho::laugho: :freek: I'll bet!
Started the process of replacing all the carpet with the diamond plate style rubber/plastic flooring material. It's made for gym floors, but works great for me. At about 1/16" thick I think it's just the right size to be easily manipulated into corners and easy enough to cut. So far I'm happy.
On to the pics.
Starting with a VERY dirty interior!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior086.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior089.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior091.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior095.jpg
I began removing all the seats, seatbelts, and strap hooks. Only a few pieces of plastic trim actually had to be removed, the rest just pulls a little out of the way for everything to move around it.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior099.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior097.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior096.jpg
and finally all interior plastic/carpet/seats/hardware out of the way!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior101.jpg
I layed the 3 pieces of carpeting out on top of the roll of material and cut around them one at a time, leaving a few inches on each side to remove once I get it in the truck just incase I need it there.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior102.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior103.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior104.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior105.jpg
My wife even donned her beanie and braved these frigid Florida winter nights to help with trimming the pieces. :bwgy:
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior106.jpg
I used a 3M adhesive spray bought from Home Depot for about $10. It works great.
For the rear cargo area I peeled the factory insulation pad from the back of the carpet and laid it back into place to help fill those ridges in some, to keep the doggies feet from hurtin'!
Once the insulation was back down, I trial fitted the first cut piece and trimmed a little where needed. The first cut fit suprisingly well, I think. I'm kind of proud of myself so far!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior108.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior109.jpg
I was a little worried about this corner, thinking I cut too much, but turns out it's in there juuuust right.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior110.jpg
And here's a full view from the back door.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...nterior107.jpg
Ran out of time tonight. I'll have to finish it tomorrow afternoon, gotta do a little time at work in the morning, plus the corners for the middle section are being a major pain in the butt, so I think the warmer weather will help the rubber be more pliable and maybe easier to work with.
Will update tomorrow night if possible.
:bgwb:
Oh, and complete removal of the inerior, seats, carpet, trim, center dash, and any misc bolts took only about half an hour. The first piece took about an hour to cut, trial fit, glue and then find all the bolt holes for the tabs and seatbelts.
I think a solid 4 or 5 hours dedicated to this tomorrow and it will be finished completely.
Looks great Bob! :thumbup: Can't wait to see the finished product with everything back together.
Uh oh, I see a new project for me in the future....
We can hardly wait for the hourly updates...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...ROSS/014-1.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/015.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/016.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/017.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/018.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/019.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/020.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/021.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/022.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/024.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/027.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/029.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...iCROSS/030.jpg
I ended up taking the trim pieces that cover the back speakers completely out to get the matrial all the way in there. Then bought some shiney sheet metal screws and used them sparingly to hold down the mat in different places, the rest was glued down.
I also kept the floor mats that were in there under the rubber mat where people's feets go, front and rear seets, to provide cushion and a little sound deadning since the carpet and insulation was removed. I'm VERY happy with the outcome, I'm not sure if the pictures do it justice.
Looks awesome. I would take the center console out and put those pieces over the side pieces, so nothing can fall in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
What pieces over what side pieces?
Where the shot from above the center console, the rubber that is under the console should go over the rubber that goes under the seats, kind of like shingles. The highest piece should lap over the top of the lowest piece. Does that make sense? That way if anything falls, it doesn't fall under the rubber, but rather on top of the next layer. I believe it is photo number 129.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
Ooops, 29
I see what your saying now. Good idea. It's not too much work to pull the center console pieces out and do that. Wish I had thought of that while everything was out of the truck.
Thats why we post things, to get more than one point of view:) (even if we don't listen to it most of the time...
Replacing head gaskets......started on Friday night.
Not a fun project.
Mbeach once said "never do a job yourself that makes
You hate your vehicle"
Well, I think I hate the engineers more than the truck.
PO made the Strick9 Rock Sliders removeable. They fill up with snow/ice in the Winter so I took them off. Concerned about the post rusting and they just looked bad so I made some caps...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0281.JPG
Bought some black PVC and caps at local Lowes
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0278.JPG
Cut into 4" pieces and capped with ends
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0279.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../DSCN02802.JPG
Fit was not snug, so I added some door weather stripping that I had to keep the water out.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0282.JPG
Looks better and should keep rusting to a minimum
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0283.JPG
Very nice! :thumbup:
It finally happened. Ripped the inner and outter boots on the drivers side...
I guess I'll be working on that next weekend, as I don't have the boots here...
Are the inner and outter boots the same part #? Called local Pep Boys and they said they have 2 and it's a "universal" kit. I guess I'd just have to turn it around and put it on the inside?
PS, how many hours did it take anyone else to do the change? I've got about 3 hours of day light left and don't want to start if I can't finish today. I'm pretty good mechanically... just can't pick up the parts until 3pm.
BB- Maybe want to do a search, there's quite a bit of recent info on CVs, model #s, how-to, etc.. Details on the boots, the joints, etc etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
I believe the inner and outer are differant part numbers. When I did mine they were differant. Now that I have torn my front end apart a few times I can do it in about 2 hours per side. I would plan on 4 since you never know what might get thrown your way...rust, stripped bolts, etc. Good luck and have fun.
Yeah, I read all the how to's THANKS! they were a huge help. I had problems with the flat band clamps that came with the boots. I even bought the pliers and never felt like I could get hem to tighten enough to seal. They are on with screw type clamps right now, I know that's not ideal but I had to finish it up last night! Any how to's on operating some flipping flat band clamp pliers?!?
There's a special tool for tightening those flat clamps...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
http://www.bing.com/shopping/KD-Tool...5d&wf=Commerce
Should be able to get your hands on one at most any auto parts store.
A screw type clamp will eventually wear through the boot.
It's the one that looks like a can opener, you put the "stop" against where the band goes through itself, then put the free end in the winder, tighten it down, bend & trim.
Then a few taps to flatten it out, & a few layers of electrical tape if ya wanna get really fancy.
Well that's not the pliers I bought at all.... I'm gonna have to go back and find the right things. Thanks dub
I am dropping my differential and installing a new rt side cv inner cup. Here are my tips for anyone else who wants to do this. First build a 24 by24 garage with a hydraulic bay in your backyard...heated if you live North. Then invest in 2000 in air tools, get a drill press, band saw, welder, grinder and all the other tools you may need. Then those fork like things that they sell to seperate ball joints and tie rod ends....give that to your neighbor for his grill or your wife for a speghetti claw...they are useless. As for me I did it while laying on top of acorns in my driveway. In total it took me about 8 hours to get the diff down onto the pavement. I am slow, 50 years old, achey, and tend to just stare at bolts for about 15 minutes before I actually put a wrench on them. It is New Year's day - I started this the night before New years Eve by pulling the front drive shaft. I allowed this 3 days off work to get it done and take my wife shopping like I am now. Good year everyone.! (8 hours just to get it down- another ? to reinstall)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
You don't need all that for a diff drop...lol. For separating ball joints, just use a sledge hammer, whack em a few times, and they pop right out, I have done it literally dozens of times on my VX. All you need is a wrench set from Harbor Freight-15 bucks, jack stands and floor jack-40 bucks for the set or so, an extra bottle jack-9 bucks or so, I recommend an electric impact-50 bucks plus another 15 for the impact socket set, 3-5lb sledge-7 bucks, a 2x4-scrap piece-free, thats about it. Should be able to get it down in 2-3 hours tops. If you lived closer, I could help you out:)
Hey I shopped electric impact wrench and couldn't find any such animal. So they do have them...well I will look again. Part of my time crunch is modifying the brackets. Doing it myself and using a different method than others have used. I'm using a cheap harbor freight welder , welding for the first , and loving it.
Very strange, if you search impact wrench, it doesn't show up. I searched wrench, and filtered to power tools, and voila:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...CategoryExpand
You can get 25% coupons all over the place, sunday paper, popular science and so on. I broke my first one the first time I used it and decided to take it apart rather than take it back. That was a mistake...springs and bearings everywhere. They wouldn't take it back after that. Bought another one, I have beat the piss out of it, ran it so hard the grease started smoking, and it is still going strong.
Yes when you google electric impact wrench there are a million of them. Here is a picture of how I modified my brackets. dropped 1.25 ". Remember this is the first time I have ever welded so laugh if you will at my welds. :).
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0451.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0461.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0481.JPG
Do you think that will be strong enough?
Even if it drops out... most, if not all of the steering function should remain...maybe...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
Problem would be that the failure would result in the assembly landing on the center drag link. You are putting a lot of stress on that one point, and since it isn't centered, that is a lot of leverage. I hope it works out for you, but it isn't how I would have done it for the strongest application.
It was fast and relatively easy. I was driving for months, unknowingly with no nut on the bolt of the right frontmost bushing. It was supported by only 3 bolts. The whole pumpkin is not that heavy. I can easily lift it. As for it hitting the road yes my linkage would catch it........:o and actually I think the crossmember under the rear of the differential would catch it first.
.torque might be another factor you may wish to examine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
Yep, torque will is the problem if it breaks it will do a ton of damage. Do a search of suspension link breakage...that will be the same type of damage done. Plus if you are at speed on the highway when it let's go it may not only be the vx that gets damaged. I would haves picked something a bit less critical to start welding with. At a minimum I'd have someone who knows welding check your weld joints.
Installed in the front cladding...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0317.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0318.JPG
Wow, those fit perfectly.
Nice grill. wish I could spend time on the exterior like that.
OK. The dropped differential is done and in place and working. BUT I did this because I was peeved at the tripod style cv joint on the passenger side. When I order half shafts I get the 6 ball bearing type sent. So I started this project to convert and ordered a new full shaft with inner cup. Ha ha ha. So you know in order to get it on I had to seperate the joint from the cup and toss the half shaft aside-cause I will finish that joint this week. What did I find?.....a tripod joint! may I swear? (I didn't but like Curly said on the three Stooges -"I know all the woyds" Instead I did a Costello and started laughing only to end up crying.). Well, so my question to you experienced VX'rs is- what type of joint do you have on yours? esp the passenger side.? PS My body is racked with pain.
Are you replacing the entire shaft all the way to the punkin or just from the green cup outward?
If the latter and you are using your old cup the same part number as the drivers side. From the cup out they are the same.