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Oil change with Mobile 1 5W-30 High Mileage and a WIX filter
MAF and Throttle Body cleaning
SeaFoam thru the vaccum system
Lube the front and rear sway bar bushings, and all zerk fittings in the driveline
Silcone for the window tracks
It was a great day...
I just finished shampooing my carpets. This weekend i'm painting my hood insert.
I'm surprised by how well the carpet and floor mats have held up - the picture doesn't do it justice - It looks very good
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...00817-1251.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...00817-1251.jpg
Well I got to test fit my new rack and lights today, waiting for my crossbars to come in that I'm hoping will work.
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMG_5023.jpg
I also mounted this little guy :evil:
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMG_5022.jpg
Thursday was an oil change and 2 new front tires, also had the front drivers side rim replaced at the same time. Friday I replaced the windshield washer pump that was leaking, and the prop rod holder that was broken. Saturday is supposed to be nice so it's time for a good wash and cleaning.
Some people have reported problems with the TOD if the front and rear tyres aren't matched in wear.Quote:
Originally Posted by SAM52764
If your tyres vary much from front to rear, just keep an ear out for strange noises.
Seems to affect some and not others.
PK
Thanks for the tip but I should be okay as the rear Cooper Discoverer HT's have only around 300 miles on them, and I of course replaced the fronts with the same tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by PK
Changed the oil today, made a rookie mistake, didn't watch it drain, the plug backed up, 2 or 3 quarts in the driveway. Good thing I have about 5 gallons of dish soap:) Purrs like a kitten again, been 7 months and 3000 miles since last change. Tomorrow is the big day, with it being 65 in the morning, its tolerable to be outside till 11 or 12. I am gonna try and get the electrical work done, redo all switches to OEM switch, add relay and project box for various accessories (thanks for the tip boss). I have a external speaker to wire up for the CB, I think its going in the overhead, right between the visors. I also have to trim the axiom engine cover to fit, install new grill insert and if I am feeling really ducky, I will rhino line the hood insert, front cladding and fenders and parts of the hood. No promises there, that is gonna take a bit of time and Istill have to do my statistics homework.
LoL
He said tyres!
I can't help it if you guys are 50 years behind the rest of the world in converting to metric spelling.:(:(:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
PK
I'm in the process of fitting 6x9 Polk db speakers into the factory rear spots... fun stuff! ;)
Just finished swapping out the grill insert, had to change the "ISUZU" emblem out as well, it remains upside down:)
I also used a titanium exhaust wrap on the rear exhaust, mine has been rubbing a spot on the frame since I busted a hangar last Uwharrie trip. No more rattle!!
I was going to fit the inclinometer, but I am just not feeling it today. The busted brake line has me all bummed out, part won't be here till tue or wed. :wtfy2:
I also removed the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield, only one of the bolts broke, I was surprised. I do have a leak under there, I just can't seem to find it. I can feel the exhaust coming out, and smell it, so it must be a pin hole, of course, its on the underside where you can't see it. That may be a winter time fix...we shall see.
Still need to rhinoline the hood/fender/cladding, not feeling that today either. *sigh*, now I am bored.
I finally received my new amplifier to finalize my full speaker system upgrade, but we are still dealing with record high temps out here... supposed to be 104ish for another week.
Wish I had an air conditioner in the garage... I'm not gettin' anywhere on my vehicles this year... grrrrrrr
Boredom cured, I ended up taking the tow hook off, painting the clip style old Trooper tow hooks with caliper red as we speak, once dry, I will put both on the VX. Anyone need a OEM tow hook, its painted red:)
I also went ahead and mounted the CB external speaker. That only took about 5 minutes, now I am bored again.
Inclinometer is calling my name, I just don't feel like getting the angle grinder out and fabricating a housing. Lazy is winning. I was hoping mail lady would bring a new game via Gamefly, but alas, no game for me. Can't do homework, left my bag in the truck, which the wife took to work:( English Composition is a joke, I spend 30 minutes a week writing 1000 word essays, get 100%, and she commends me on setting my paper aside and doing a thorough review before handing it in. Riiiiiight, more like waiting until the day its due, throwing it together, turning in rough draft. Yippee for college!!! Statistics is fun though:) CalcII, not so fun:(
Sorry, I am just trying to avoid going back out to work on the VX.
Yeah I remember CalcII, it went much better the second time around. :o
I love statistics - the science of making numbers say anything you want them to. :)
I'm interested..are ya givin' it away or how much do you want for it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
15 bucks shipped, I will put a fresh coat of red if you want me to. I use caliper paint, so it is long lasting.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Herculined the hood and insert and fenders, if I don't pick up the RS tomorrow, I will probably do the cladding as well.
I also installed the inclinometer, CB in the F250...still waiting on my replacement SS brakeline. I also have the rear EBC pads on hand, waiting till front brakes are done before I mess with that so I can check the rear caliper piston movement and make sure they actually work.
Ya, sure ya betcha, paint her up and I'll take it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Send me a PayPal bill to: kactuskat@mac.com
It will have my address, etc...
Can ya send it asap & use Priority Mail (I think it would fit in "small" flat rate, don't you?), I'm leavin' on a trip Monday 10/11, so I'd really like to get it delivered by Sat 10/9. Small flat rate box is $4.95. Bump up the total to cover the extra shipping cost for this.
Thanks.
Done, I will paint it in the morning, ship it out on Monday, Paypal request sent. Have fun on your trip!!! Hopefully you won't need the hook!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
I want to state for the record that I love my VX and as an original owner it is the longest owned vehicle of the 12 vehicles I've owned in my life. That being said...I didn't want to come off being an un-happy owner after proceding into the next few paragraphs.
My VX has been in the shop (dry-dock) for the past 10 days for PM and issues that I wanted to address before they lead to future complications.
A week before the dry-dock situation I did have a rear axle leak that to my surprise wasn't a pinion seal or RTV seal or vent hose issue. It ended up being a corrosion issue as in the rear diff was rusted-out at the top left (driver-side) shoulder radius of the pumpkin. I had an expert welder fix this with a patch of steel that was done to such perfection I have trouble spotting it and I know its there! This however, lead to me noticing my driver-side rocker-panel was rotted through from the bottom.
I'm a little disappointed because in the 10 years of ownership I really only drove it one full winter ('09-'10) as my daily driver. The previous winters it only came out during serious snow-storms of 12" or more which meant like two-three times a winter...where upon I would pressure wash the frame & rockers & wheel wells and park it again.
So I dry-docked her for timing-belt/water-pump/etc...PM & front bumper rebar replacement & had my friend (who is an expert metal fabricator/welder) remove the cladding on both sides to inspect the corrosion issues & estimate labor/material costs to rebuild rocker-panels.
In the end I spent $430 for the Timing-belt/water pump/etc PM engine work including swapping out rusted front-bumper rebar for new replacement (which I heavily painted with rustoleum primer/paint & undercoated) plus $1,100 for rocker-panel restoration on both sides utilizing some 12gauge & 16gauge steel (this includes inner & outer rocker panel construction) plus replacing all hardware involved with stainless-steel fasteners plus he re-painted my Rock-slider bars since they had to be removed to rebuild the rocker-panels plus he heavily undercoated the affected areas (utilizing an amber-colored, waxxy feeling undercoating as oppossed to the usual black rubberized tar stuff) & sprayed oil throughout and encouraged me to get the VX oiled (oil-undercoated) before winter & in spring (which I haven't done yet @ $45). Timing belt parts w/ water pump came to approx. $765 as per Merlin. Also replaced both Radiator hoses & Serp. belt plus SC Serp. belt. Front bumper rebar was $154 from RockAuto.com.
Buying new shoes next week too...bummed I can't replace my Green Diamond Icelander M/T's with the same as I've grown to love them and the company went out of business...then has been ressurected but is not up to production as none of the dealers I've talked to can get them. So after striking-out with the new General Grabber A/T too (back-order 'til Dec.) and not getting a warm & fuzzy feeling about their snow worthiness... I've ordered 4 Yokohama Geolander M/T's ($202 each plus mounting & balancing) and keeping my lone Icelander M/T spare as a continued spare. Praying they will get me through the snow close to the same as the Icelanders did even though they don't have the carbide granules to assist.
Sorry for the long-winded post...hope it doesn't deter from reading...hoping to get 5-10 more years out of the old girl!
You can get the green diamonds!!! www.treadwright.com. I just ordered a set from them for my wife's Trooper RS. Took less than 2 weeks turn around!!
Thats a bummer about the corrosion problems. I am still working on por15 the frame and welds. I am gonna duplicote the Aarms and other small parts. The POR15 is for the welds and frame rails.
Good luck with your other repairs, you should have let me know about the bumper bar, I have one sitting in my garage with no rust, could have saved you at 50 bucks or so...:)
Someone else gave me that link...the treadwright is the same idea but doesn't use the exact same carbide granules as the Green Diamonds...probably exactly the same effect if not better..not arguing that at all, but what I liked specifically about the Green Diamond Icelander M/T was it copied the tread design of the Yokohama Geolander M/T. That is what made me end up ordering the Yoko's after trying so hard to get the Green Diamonds again. They got me out of some tough situations so I'm figuring that the tread design itself (copied from Geolander M/T) had alot to do with that. Here is the link for Green Diamond Tires:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
http://www.greendiamondtire.com/productswest2.html
mine lasted 2-years and roughly 30k miles and could've potentially got me through one more winter but they are 2/3 to 3/4 worn so not going to give me the bite in deep snow.
Cool, I think you will like the AT2, those were my first tires, they rode nice, but the sidewall was too thin for my hobby:) I really dig the new ones with the red lettering, but they are a bit pricey. Good luck with the wait, I too had to wait months for mine...
Bummer that it cost all that, but you've got to figure your up-front investment will significantly reduce costs later right? And if you ever do sell you ought to copy/paste your post into your ad - that's the kind of meticulous attention to detail that signifies a great used vehicle.
did clear lens for both front and side markers,
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...s/PA140015.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...s/PA140016.jpg
Well this week I have my Vx in my auto mechanics class. I plan to do some engine work to it so far and also install my amp and 2 12" speakers in the back. Last week I installed my passenger seat extenders. Next week I plan to get my ome parts for my suspension so I can lift me up a good 2-3" and also install my cb radio that I have. Trying to get ready for moab in may. Christmas list includes alot for the family haha (skid plate, winch, new wheels and tires, brushguard, new paint job....).
Pretty good list for a 16 year old huh?
So what are you getting for them in return? Don't want to end up with coal in your stocking... ;)
i'm replacing a broken CV and changing the rear diff oil. Then i might get it muddy :D
Maverick I treat my family well haha I get my dads business credit card for the club we own and get some presents every year I spend around 5 grand on family which we make that each day at the club we have in Lexington Kentucky usually.
Well, I finally did the torsion bar crank and raised the nose 1" on my non-lifted VX. It bugged me since day one that the gaps in the wheel wells front-to-back were so far off that it looked like the front suspension might actually be broken. Then changing to taller 275/65/18 tires sure didn't help. I thought the "jacked up" look was really cool in the 70s. A few decades later - now that ALL cars seem to come from the factory "jacked up" - I'm really, really, really, really sick of that look. (Definitely a pet peeve of mine.)
I know the VX is supposed to have some rake and keeping it stock is "safer", but I may raise the nose another 1/2" to make it even closer to being level. Mine will never be perfectly even from side to side because the gap between the tire and the wheel arch on the left hand side is 1/2" higher than the right side. Started with 1-1/2" difference front to back on one side and 2" on the other.
Hope you weren't offended, just giving you a little ribbing, all in good fun. :flower: In all seriousness, that's one he11 of a club you got there. You're making a 5K profit every day? That's like $520K / year if you're only open Friday and Saturday! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthJ1
Well were open Friday Saturday and Sunday :) and no offense man I seemed like I snapped back sorry I just was saying it back sorry about that man .no hard feelings?
Of course not, it's just hard to judge tone and inflection over email or in posts, so I like to be careful. :) Now to get us back on topic...
I applied the TS-1 stuff a week ago yesterday. I'll write up something more detailed and post it in the Cladding thread after I've had a few more weeks to evaluate its rain resistance. I can tell you a few things: (1) it looks every bit as dark, if not more so, than B2B, 303, or any Meguiar's product, (2) it's extremely easy to apply. I'm VERY optimistic.
Replaced my burnt out heater fan resister. Now after a long, hot Arizona summer I have AC/heat! Did I say it was HOT!?
Also cleaned out the fan cage. Think I need to recharge the AC system soon.
Well this weekend I installed the new metal window brackets from Tim, and while I had the plastic door panels off I took them apart and painted the orange part a metallic graphite color (close to the dash color). I used Rustoleum Midnight Black (more of a graphite sheen) which has small metal flakes in it. I took out the panels behind the "pockets" and painted that piece a true satin black so it has a nicer subdued tone to the whole panel, but not monotone. I also installed some 5 1/2 round lights on the grille guard and am working the wiring harness to power them, including a new fuse block. Took out the fuzzy hole and need to find a piece of black plastic to use to cover the hole so I can mount about 3x switches there (no luck in finding a Rodeo fuzzy hole replacement) - pics to follow.
Have you tried posting a WTB post here and on the Planet' or give Marlin a shout?:yesy:Quote:
Originally Posted by wekilled
wekilled-
i have one of those fuzzy hole replacements if your interested...
PM me! or call 720-273-1099
I decided to go with the 3M headlight restoration. Okay let me say right now if you haven't done/considered this before you should. I spent $20 bucks and got this from my local Advance Autoparts store. I used my 9.6V rechargeable drill. Just follow the directions and you will be okay. Here's a tip, when you think you have sanded enough, do it again anyway. Although the directions do not say to add water to the sanding process I found doing so did a better job. Sand and sand again. Once you get to the buffing process with the compound you will see the difference. They really do look like new
Before
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMAG0009.jpg
Middle
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMAG0011.jpg
After - the light doesnt show the full clarity but it is beautiful - moving around the horns is rough but once you get the rythm you got it
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMAG0014.jpg
VT Maverick offered me one for $20 with a few blanks, but mailbox is full so I can't respond. (below)Quote:
Originally Posted by pbkid
Looking for one with switch blanks and/or a working switch.....either way shoot me an email on my .mil account. Love to get the project underway with help from either of you.
VT Maverick: "I've got a fuzzy hole replacement if your interested. Need to take a look this weekend to see if I have the 2 blank switch covers that go with it. Say $20 including shipping? Just let me know."
- Ashley
Forward Message
Sorry Doug, I'm on bisiness travel so I haven't been able to clean out my inbox. I get home Thursday night so I'll let you know Friday what I have.