Actually Eric and I exchanged a couple of PM's a few weeks ago, and he was in the middle of moving as well. Said he'd send the footage my way when he had a chance to locate it, so hopefully we'll be able to get the video together sometime soon.
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Actually Eric and I exchanged a couple of PM's a few weeks ago, and he was in the middle of moving as well. Said he'd send the footage my way when he had a chance to locate it, so hopefully we'll be able to get the video together sometime soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob
Commercial Grade Hot glue! Here in the valley of hell.....also known as phoenix AZ Mine is still holding after a year with all these 100+ days we love sooooooooooooo much.
Hot Glue stays rubbery which is a good thing cause it wont deform and will continue to grip the glass
Two questions on doing this repair.
1. After removing the door panel I noticed that someone (either stereo installer or window tint installer) just slashed and removed the vapor barrier. Other than my window not working forever I have not noticed anything wrong with the door. Should I attempt to replace the barrier, and if so with what?
2. I have removed the window but I have no idea on how to remove the plastic clips that are glued onto the window. What is the best way to remove these clips?
thanks for any assistance - Mike
You can easily make a new vapor barrier out of some four mil poly (any good hardware store/builders supply), but patching it with some duct tape will be almost as effective...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by dietz99vcross
Alright, this goes down as the easiest repair I have done on the VX yet. The actually installing the bracket was way to easy. Getting the door panel removed - 5 minutes max. Finding the right size socket to undo the two screws (to tight for the screwdriver, afraid it would strip) - 10mm - 4 minutes. Pulling the window out (no guts, no glory) 30 seconds. Realizing the plastic clips were not even broken - doesn't count in total time. Scraping off old glue and cleaning window - 5 minutes. Gluing new bracket in place - 2 minutes. Letting it dry - as much as you feel is needed, I waited 2 hours. Reinstalling window and attaching the two bolts - 5 minutes. Testing and adjusting window - another 5 minutes tops. I am leaving the panel off a few days just to make sure all is good, but overall I am very pleased with how easy this replacement was. Thanks for making these.
I made one adjustment when installing these. I first put the window in and tightened everything down and the window was very sluggish towards the top. I lowered it loosened the bolts a half turn raised it up, all seemed good, and lowered it and tightened them up. All seems good.
Thanks to everyone who gave input on this posting. It really helped with the install. Mike
Here are the photos of my installation:
1st here is the marine grade epoxy drying:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-22-08_017.jpg
Then here is a side shot installed:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-22-08_007.jpg
And here is a straight on shot after installing:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-22-08_001.jpg
Here I have circled the plastic tabs on the window track that seem to be way more loose on my passenger side then the drivers side for some odd reason:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-08_007Mod.JPG
This completely fixed my driver side tilting which was not as bad as the passenger side, and it definitely made the passenger side A LOT better. It is still not perfect on the passenger side but it is pretty close, and there is really no more gap to be seen on either window, and I am completely happy with the results. Very easy fix, longest part was waiting for the epoxy to dry. My plastic tabs were not broken either, but this mod helped a TON with the tilting problem. It seems though that the bracket in the middle of my passenger side that attaches the window to the metal guide is what is really loose. It has plastic on it and seems like that is simply loose, but I cannot complain, it seems this issue is almost completely solved by using these upgraded metal tabs.
Thanks for the photos...
Having not done this repair yet and having the brackets......
This is a stupid question...but how do you get the window pane out and then back in with the brackets attached...Just trying to paint the picture without acutally having expierence with the inards of the door.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing! It is really really easy though, I could tell you nothing but try it yourself and you would be able to figure it out. Basically once you have the old plastic tabs un bolted, as you pull the window up out of the door, it naturally tilts towards the front of the car and as it does you notice that the rear of the glass is cut to allow this to happen until the window pulls straight up out of the window towards the outside of the cabin side of the window frame. The only tricky part is the tabs/bracket snag just a little on the motor mount/pulley thing but all you have to do is eyeball it and add a little force to compress the window seal to allow for a little more room and it makes it with plenty of room to spare, it really is very very simple, thank goodness the window is cut with that angle in the rear so it will rotate forward and pull straight out! But then again maybe it is that dang cut in the glass that allows it to tilt when we DON'T want it to come out of the door! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
You can see the beginning of that angled cut in the 1st photo I posted at the very right of the photo, that is the passenger side window, with the inside glass facing up and the outside of the glass resting on the ground, so if you were standing inside the door frame with the passenger side door open you would pull the window up and rotate counter clockwise, with the top of the glass rotating towards the front of the car and then pull straight up watching for the tabs to not catch at the very top of the window seal.
Great picture, BTWQuote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
Just to clarify what I have been using for terminology;
The metal horizontal piece the window tabs bolt to, I have been calling that piece the "regulator arm".
The vertical part is the regulator track, the plastic pieces are the arm guides.
When the arm is pulling away from the track....
That is the main reason for the "spacer fix"
From your picture it looks like just a few on the bottom track bolts will do.
The other (or same) reason for the spacers, especially at the bottom, is to align the track with the path of the window glass.
If the glass has a tendency pinch the rubber weatherstripping...or push outward....
Please wait for me to upload crude drawing.....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...bs/Photo_3.jpg
Sorry for using photo booth. I'm lazy
That is my problem right there. My drivers window just dropped on me the other day. Popped open the door to find the plastic "arm guides" broke... DOH! the windows pulls away from the track and eventually just took the tabs out with it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldoggie
BTW your plastic guides are not loose, they are attached to the arm.
That is the window pulling the regulator arm away from the regulator track.
or the door panel pulling the track away from the glass? Same thing!
Small Tip; I found it easier to put the window and tabs in place, then glue and close the window to set in place, before the glue sets.
That way the glass is centered to the opening. no waiting!
ttt
BUMPED for the new members. welcome
Just sent an order in to Tim. THANKS, Scott in Michigan