CV Boot Replacement...or how to save $1600!!!!

Today I replaced my torn CV boot at home. Isuzu will tell you the CV's are NOT a servicable part and that the entire shaft needs to be replaced at a cost of $850 per side. Since I had everything apart I changed both the inner and outer boot. Parts cost me $33 for both the inner and outer boot (x2 if doing both sides) and another $2.99 for a can of break cleaned. $36 vs. $850!
All you need is a willingness to get dirty and greasy and about 2 hours of your time.
So here is the proceedure...(I must give mad props to James (Spazz) and Dan Houlster who's 4x4Wire tech article were of much help)
Here is the culprit...
The torn boot
http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/da...betzZC0300.jpg
Very few tools are needed to do the job
1 jack, jack stands, a deep 17mm socket, ratchet (a long one helps for leverage needed), snap ring pliers, a screw driver, rags and a can of brake cleaner. A band tool is helpful also...I didn't use one and it was a pain but I got it done.
http://shutter07.pictures.aol.com/da...48LRZW0300.jpg
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Jack up the front of the VX and place it on jack stands.
Remove wheel/tire.
http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/da...IUVfu00300.jpg
Place jack under lower control arm and lift to relieve pressure on the lower ball joint.
http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/da...IUVfu00300.jpg
Remove the 4 17mm bolts on the bottom of the lower control arm that hold the ball joint bracket.
http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/da...uinDXM0300.jpg
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http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...indNiJ0300.jpg
(yes, that is duct tape as a VERY temperary fix till I got a chance to do the boot change! :yesy: )
Next reposition the ball joint bracket to the top of the lower control arm.
http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...VhcZZO0300.jpg
Remove the bands from the INNER CV BOOT.
Move boot off of CV Joint.
http://shutter04.pictures.aol.com/da...AhRIVs0300.jpg
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http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/da...G7QJdW0300.jpg
Clean as much grease out as you can. Rags and brake cleaner work great.
Next locate the wire ring just inside the inner lip and slide a screw driver under it. Pop the ring out. Thiis is the retainer ring that holds your CV joint and axle shaft in!
http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/da...th4n950300.jpg
This is the ring once remoced.
http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/da...y+W9+30300.jpg
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Next you pull the CV joint out by pulling the brake assembly outward.
This is the result.
http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...ZsbK6n0300.jpg
Be prepared for the balls to fall out.
This is what the CV joint will look like...yeah its greasy!
http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...baV+-z0300.jpg
Use the brake cleaner and rags to clean it up.
Use a screw driver to remove the 6 balls.
http://shutter07.pictures.aol.com/da...rlMt3T0300.jpg
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There is a snap ring on the end of the shaft.
http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/da...XiNnN70300.jpg
Remove the ring with snap ring pliers.
The snap ring once removed.
http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/da...yBeNQW0300.jpg
Next remove the the inner part of the CV joint from the splined shaft.
I needed to use a small gear puller on mine since it was pretty tight.
Once removed notice the recessed inner part on one end. That side goes on first when reinstalling it or it will not fit on all the way.
You can see it here...
http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/da...Cbkgro0300.jpg
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Now the outer crown will also come off. Notice which way it comes off for reinstalling later. Here is all the CV joint parts removed...
http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...Mt5L+b0300.jpg
Remove the inner boot by removing the small band and sliding the boot off the shaft.
Now remove the large and small band from the outer boot. Then slide the outer boot off the shaft.
Clean the outer CV joint using the brake cleaner and rags. You can also use high pressure air to blow out the CV joint. The thing is you need to get out any dirt that may have gotten into the CV joint through the tear in the boot.
http://shutter04.pictures.aol.com/da...o34i3U0300.jpg
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Now you are ready to start putting it back together.
Fill the outer CV joint with grease supplied in the boot kit. Get it as deep into the joint as possible. Then apply the new outer boot per the instructions in the boot kit (the kit contains the boot, boot sraps and grease).
Slide the outer (large end) on and apply the strap. The strap tool really would have helped here but I managed by using a scwer driver, pliers and cutters. You then "burp" any extra air out of the boot by sliding a screw driver under the small end and squeezing the boot. Remove the screw driver and allow the boot to go back into shape. Apply the small end strap. The straps line up on the grooves on the large end and on the groove on the shaft on the small end.
http://shutter07.pictures.aol.com/da...DEckm30300.jpg
Next slide the new inner boot on (small end first).
http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/da...hnMnrn0300.jpg
Next put the outter CV joint back together the opposite of taking it apart.
Outer cage, center piece onto splined shaft, snap ring, and then the balls.
Apply grease to the parts and balls. This will help keep it all together.
Now carefully manipulate it back into the space it came out of. You will have to move the assembly around until it all lines up and then it will just drop right into place.
http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/da...tbrRGd0300.jpg
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Fill with remainder of grease.
Now slide the large end of the boot into place and secure it with the supplied strap. Burp the air and slide the small end into place on the shaft. Apply the small strap.
http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/da...6d++Xj0300.jpg
Now reposition the ball joint bracket back under the lower control arm.
Use the jack to lift the control arm until the holes line up for the bolts.
Insert the bolts and tighten up the nuts. Torque specs are found in your manual.
Put your wheel back on.
Repeat for other side if needed.
Lift VX with jack.
Remove jack stands.
Lower VX.
You ready to roll with a lot of saved cash in your pocket for your trip to Moab next May!

Great pics & write up Billy, I've been watching it materialize & know how much time you've spent posting pics etc...you're a far more patient, persistent & detail oriented man than I. I salute you! :thanx:

Clear pics, great narrative, HUGE $$$ savings, what else can be said? This is what makes this forum great. To paraphrase from an old (and hilarious) post about what's happening on other car forums...
Bentley Forums
- - - I used the ash tray today. How do I replace it?

Worth another look...
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...hlight=bentley

Velvis ;)

Kudos for going the extra mile and putting together a superb guide!!!

You might want to host the pictures here in case AOL ever decides to "realign their internet business" and stop providing free hosting.

Another fine write up Mr. Oliver!

Thanks from everyone here, we appreciate how much time and consideration it takes to step away from the tools and take a few pictures. This easily doubles the time of the job. Thanks again,

Excellent write up and photos! This is what this community is all about. THANK YOU! :)

PS: If you'd like to permanently host your how-to somewhere, I'd be more than happy to copy it to my VX site.

Joe Black...Feel free to throw it up on your site. :thumbup:

but, you need to throw in there that the C clip on the inner green axle cup needs to be installed offset from the bearing grovves upon installation or the whole bearing, cage, castle, and c clip assembly will slide right out of the green cup.

Other than that looks great. Glad you finally got it.

I find it just as EZ to have a spare axle ( off roaders). Replace whole axle assy & rebuild original as needed keep as a spare.

I have changed Five (5) Passenger side axles. Zero (0) Driver side.

Really nice work Billy.

Bob F

Glad to see you still poking in here now and again Bob. Not being much of a wrench, I am learning as things happen. Today I broke a wheel stud off while doing the passenger side CV's (got it down to 2 hours!). So I guess now I'll learn how to take the hub apart....unless someone knows a better way. There is not enough room between the disc and the area that the stud goes in.

Hi Billy, another thing you might want to to consider, is putting the cage and balls back on the bearpaw in the same orientation that you took them off. They develop wear patterns when they are new and changing thepattern results in accelerated wear. Its not a huge deal, but if you can keep the pieces in the same order it is definitely worth the small extra effort.

For those of you that have lifted front suspensions and are going through alot of CV boots, instead of using the supplied band to tighten the small end of the boot, try using a good quality wire tie. If you tighten it up enough to keep the internal workings clean and dry, but still leave it loose enough that it can slide, your CV boots will last ALOT longer. I guess its too little too late for you, but perhaps someone will be able to use it.

Great job Billy! I just had mine done, and it cost me $350 big ones.

Once again.....you the MAN!

Peace.
Tom

Crap. That was easy. Why wasn't that way the first 3 times I tried. So easy anyone with the tool list can do it.

The only problem is the outer boot I got at Pep Boys was loose on the cup- too loose. My neighbor wisked me up the street to Adavanced to get another. Don't forget the big C-clip, i almost did.

Thanks for the help Spazz, the Marines always get the job done!

Jon

Did my CV Boot replacement this weekend using this post as a great tool.

I figured since one was bad the others couldn't be close behind so I replaced all of them using the Mecatech boots, which came so highly recommended by E-ZooZoo One. I combined their instructions and Triathlete's for the install.

Since the Mecatech's are so elastic I only had to disasemble as far as Post #5 (and my ball bearings didn't fall out...). The outer boot slid over the bearings using the existing grease as lube (an assistant to helps with this one). Then I just used mecatech's cone tool they provide to get the inner boot on. Easy as pie.

First side took 3 hours; the R&D phase is always the longest. But after having done it once, the other side took only an hour. So, if you have done boot replacements before, you could replace all 4 boots in 2 hours!

Thanks for the How-To, Triathlete.

wow billy thanks for the great writeup, thats gonna help the rest of us out a ton!

Just got done doing this CV boot replacement on the drivers side today. I completely took my time and checked everything 100 times and it still only took under 3 hours. What a great write up and what a money saver!!!!! I really enjoy getting stuff done..... Thanks Billy this helped so so much, you don't even know. Saved me $400 this holiday season, and the VX is back on the road ;)

Glad to see it has helped so many out!

I bumped this TTT for the obvious reason of convenient access, since this is my project today.

But also to say Thanks again to Billy, for taking the time to document this procedure.:yesgray:

I don't have nearly enough patience to put the wrenches & rags down, clean up my hands & take a few clicks, once I get up to my elbows in grease, bearings & what have you...:sighwgray

Once again, Billy, I salute You!:thumbup:

Yeah, I remember this thread from a long time ago. I forgot about it entirely. This is very good. I need to find a way to make color print outs of it. I know someday I will end up doing this fix...

Thanks Billy!

Bart

I made a pdf of Billy's 'how2'. It is great having a disposable paper copy outside with you.

I can't figure out how to post it but if you PM me your email, I'll send it.

Better yet, someone PM me some 'posting for dummies' & I'll put it where all can get it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

I made a pdf of Billy's 'how2'. It is great having a disposable paper copy outside with you.

I can't figure out how to post it but if you PM me your email, I'll send it.

Better yet, someone PM me some 'posting for dummies' & I'll put it where all can get it.

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Good show, Tom, PM sent. You know, there is probably a way to post it on here in the how-to section.

Bart

"there is probably a way to post it on here in the how-to section"

I'm sure there is but I couldn't figure it out in 12 seconds so I gave up.

A couple quick thoughts while I'm on break...:rolleyesg

It says on the can of brake cleaner: "use in a well ventilated area, known to cause cancer in the state of California" both statements made me glad I was in N.Dak...:smilewink
However, N.Dak is apperently not THAT well ventilated...the label should also include: "known to cause mild mental impairment in the state of N.Dak"...
I somehow got it in my mind that combining a few loads of laundry, with CV boot replacment was a good idea...it's not.:sighwgray
These two activities shouldn't be done in the same WEEK...it's a dirty job, but somebody's gotta do it.:rolleyesg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ldub

I don't have nearly enough patience to put the wrenches & rags down, clean up my hands & take a few clicks, once I get up to my elbows in grease, bearings & what have you...:sighwgray

Once again, Billy, I salute You!:thumbup:

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Lots of gloves! Clean hands are just a gove change away!:bwgy:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

Lots of gloves! Clean hands are just a gove change away!:bwgy:

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It's the area from where the gloves would end,(if I had any) up to about mid bicep that also seems to get a bit...ummm "tainted".:rolleyesg

Not laundry friendly...

Wonder if it could just be moved over the 'Tips and How To' section

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rowhard

Wonder if it could just be moved over the 'Tips and How To' section

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That's where I found it in the first place...just had to tweak the search parameters to include "back to the stoneage" or something to that effect...:smilewink

I only got one side done yesterday, due to my lacadaisical work ethic (started late, so made up for it by quitting early) the other side should be a snap...prolly this weekend.
So I guess I only $aved $800.oo on my first attempt.:thumbup:

That savings will ALMOST get you to Moab next year!:cool:

One thing this doesn't mention is putting the ring that holds the inner cv in there back in before putting new inner cv boot back on with the inner strap.

I am ordering some mecatechs now, because the ones I got from Autozone, made it 3k miles and blew in half. :( Hope the Mecatechs are made better than those Dorman ones that didn't even make it 3 months.

Hey Larry,

Can you tell me your approximate time to completion for one side, while being lackadaisical?

I'll add 25% and figure that's about where I'd land ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by taylorRichie

Hey Larry,

Can you tell me your approximate time to completion for one side, while being lackadaisical?

I'll add 25% and figure that's about where I'd land ;)

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I think if I had applied myself & stuck with it, about 3-4 hrs. on the first side, & 1-1/2 - 2 hrs. on the second one would be a reasonable guesstimate.:_wrench:

As it was, I took a lot of breaks, what with changing loads of laundry, talking to the nice older couple next door, the shapely sweet young thing that moved in upstairs (she actually wanted to look at my torn CV boots :naughty: ) & just going about the whole project "hawaiian style"...:thumbup (translate that into about 6 hrs. total :rolleyesg )

My attention seems to wander, & I look at all kinds of other stuff while I'm working under there.
I discovered a torn shock boot, trans. pan gasket leak, & a few other issues that will need to be addressed shortly.

As a side note, you will want to take about 10 full turns of tension off of your torsion bars to get the necessary suspension compression, when I tried to jack up my lower control arm, the frame came off the jack stand before the control arm moved.

Also, liquid wrench or PB blaster the day before on the 4 lower ball joint bolts & the torsion bar bolts is a good idea.:_wrench: