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OK GUYS I HAVE A 3 PRONGED SWITCH (POWER-LOAD-GROUND) WITCH WIRES GO WERE AND I KNOW THE ONLY LIGHT BLUE WIRE FROM THE TOD COMPUTER IS THE ONE I USE BUT DONT KNOW WERE TO CONNECT IT ON MY SWITCH AND ALSO WERE TO HOOK UP THE SIDE GOING TO THE TRNSFER CASE ON THE SWITCH SOME HELP PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME I AM PULLING MY HAIR OUT I HAVE SEARCHED TOD DISCONNECT BUT NO ONE HAS EXPLAINED CLEARLY ENOUGH FOR THIS OKLAHOMA BOY TO BEABLE TO UNDERSTAND :eek:
Search for the "TOD controller, knob, wheel or buttons" thread. Read the entire thing.
This will give you an idea of how the TOD works.
It's not going to be as simple as cutting the light blue wire.
You will need to divert the TODs output to a dummy load, with 2-5 ohms of resistance, at around 20W. (The 13+V is not applied continuously, so you don't need too much dissipation at the dummy load).
This operation will require more than just the switch that you have in your hand. You will be handling around 7A of current -you need a relay to do the switching, so that means you'll also need 12V to run the relay.
See how it starts getting complicated?
Also, even with the TOD "disconnected," the transfer case can still transmit torque to the front wheels. Tone proved this on a dyno...
So, no burnouts or donuts -even with unlocked hubs. Your TOD computer will just try harder to overcome the sensed speed differential between the front and rear axle.
Most of us would rather have control of the TOD to ADD torque to the front axle, not remove it.
well i talked to my dad and he explained it all to me and i decided to leave it alone and let it be i am true blue country boy who grew up in the mud and i just wanted the tod off for those long hiway drive back to oklahoma to save wear on the cv's and so on. but thank you for the advise.