LED Replacement - revisited

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05/15/2006, 09:42 PM
SkidPlate

LED Replacement - revisited

I finally decided to replaced most of my exterior lights with LED's. I am very happy with the results, the LED's are either brighter or just look better than the stock filament lamps. The instant on/off of the brake and signal lights just makes the VX look fresh and modern, especially from the rear.

Many thanks to Scott for his informative review:
http://vehicross.info/modules.php?na...eview&id=4#top
Without it I would have never taken the plunge.

I was so intoxicated with the quick flashing that I decided to extend it and solder a wire in for the side marker conversion:
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...ewarticle&id=5

But I found that there was a loss of resistance to trigger the flasher with these lights connected. So, I have yet to order parts, but I'm thinking this may work:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...Conversion.jpg

Let me know if I'm on the right track. The 6ohm resister would be the one I add to correct the circuit. Thanks.
05/15/2006, 09:53 PM
mbeach

From here it looks like you want to run your current limiting resistor parallel to your LED?
That won't work.

Look for a "LED flasher" module. It is a simple plug-and-play unit for these applications. No overheated resistors or hidden lightbulbs required.
05/16/2006, 07:34 AM
WormGod

I had Mike at ClearCorners do up some tail light assemblies with LEDs for me years ago, and they still please me. VERY bright and affective according to people I know that have followed me. Hard to miss. Mike even tinted them for me and they are still quite visible. You cant go wrong with LED IMHO.

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/vx11.JPG
05/16/2006, 08:49 AM
mbeach

I love the look and instant reaction of LEDs -but this past winter I actually found a reason not to make a conversion.

The heat from the incandescent bulbs actually work to keep the tailights clear of snow and frost. When it's cold/dark/foggy, the Ironman is hard enough to see. If it weren't for the "heated tailights," I'd have been rear-ended numerous times.
05/16/2006, 03:15 PM
SkidPlate

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbeach

Look for a "LED flasher" module. It is a simple plug-and-play unit for these applications. No overheated resistors or hidden lightbulbs required.

You know, the thought of this crossed my mind, but I never persued it. Thanks for the advice.

I see AutoLumination, where Scott and I bought the LED's, now carries these flasher modules: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

And according to their cross reference the EP34 works for all Isuzus. I'll give that a try and report back.

Anybody need some 3 ohm heat generators?
05/21/2006, 03:05 PM
Moncha

Let me know how they work.. I have the 3 ohm blasters and they work but I'd rather do it differently if I can
05/21/2006, 04:58 PM
Catch77

Quote:

Originally Posted by WormGod

I had Mike at ClearCorners do up some tail light assemblies with LEDs for me years ago, and they still please me. VERY bright and affective according to people I know that have followed me. Hard to miss. Mike even tinted them for me and they are still quite visible. You cant go wrong with LED IMHO.

I was going to go about getting ClearCorners to do them up myself. You remember the cost and timetable to get them done?
05/22/2006, 08:01 AM
WormGod

ClearCorners is very pricey. I dont recall the time frame so well. *shrug*
05/28/2006, 09:34 AM
rowhard

LED conversion, Flasher or Load Equalizers

Well, next mod I want to take on will be the LED conversion. What is the real difference between using the electronic flasher or the load equalizer other then cost? Am leaning towards the flasher unit for convenience sake but... if the load equalizer will give me a better result, then of course will go that way.
05/28/2006, 01:09 PM
mbeach

If you do a full conversion (all of your flashers), the LED flasher module will yield better results -that's what it's for. Some are even variable, to give you an adjustable flash rate. You won't waste any energy in heat, and you won't have to worry about some hidden resistor getting too hot when you're sitting in the McD's drivethrough.
05/28/2006, 01:25 PM
rowhard

Thanks mbeach, thats the info I was looking for. Will start the ordering process now.
05/28/2006, 02:07 PM
rowhard

one last question on LED's

Okay, somewhere I read about the color of the LED's and the len's color being a filter would cancel each other out or something. SO, do I use a clear (white) LED under a colored lens or a amber LED under the amber turnsignal lens and red LED under the red brake/parking light len's.
05/28/2006, 02:20 PM
mbeach

Experiment here.
High-intensity LEDs will all appear clear -the color comes from doping in the semi-conductor material. They will not have the tinted appearance of the old LEDs.
Your highest lux rating will come from some very expensive LEDs -Luxeon Stars and the like. They can be purchased in strips, that are already pre-wired.
Less expensive options can be had, but they will require your time to mount them on perf board, figure up the voltage drop, etc.

I'd rig up a string of white high-intensity LEDs and place them behind your lenses to get a feel for the color. White LEDs behind red filters may appear orange-ish, or they may be just what you are looking for. It'll be tough to match the tint/color of the 3rd brake light, but that would be the best look I'd say. My guess is that they used a slightly orange (lower wavelength) red LED coupled with the red filter lenses to get that vibrant red on the 3rd lamp.

Visit superbrightleds.com for inspiration.

EDIT:
Another important consideration, viewing angle. Most high-intensity LEDs have a 20* viewing angle. If mounted on a curve, this is O.K., but if mounted 90* to the roadway, they will be invisible from the side, especially during daylight. That tailgating motorcycle may never see your turnsignal.
See FMVSS 108 for details on viewing angle requirements.
05/29/2006, 05:27 PM
Moncha

I've played with the different combinations of colors and found using the same color of LED with the lens works best.. The white LEDs seemed to make the lens color funky in my opinon.. The white LED with red lens, when lit would produce kind of a purple color.. Was not to my taste. The white LED with yellow lens would just wash out the color so much it was butt ugly.
The equilizers are an old tech way of taking care of the flasher prob.. Go with the new electronic flashers. You won't "save" any power using the equilizers per se, because the equilizers draw the same amount of power as the regular bulbs.
The tower LED replacements I found solve the viewing angle problems.
07/17/2006, 10:15 AM
Spike

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moncha

Let me know how they work.. I have the 3 ohm blasters and they work but I'd rather do it differently if I can

Early last week I ordered some 20 LED light towers from www.autolumination.com

Friday after work I changed out my rear brake and rear turn signal bulbs ... but it was too darn hot out for me to bother squeezing under the dash to find the flasher module...

Last night it was a little bit cooler so I gave it a shot... I found the module easily by feeling around while I had the turn signal on.

There is a small clip on the very top of the square module to keep it in place.

I had to use a very small screw driver to pry it up enough to remove the darn thing. (took some patience, and a few explatives in between, but eventually it came free)

Popping the new one in was easier, but the dimensions of the module are a little larger, and you need to make sure that the previously mentioned tab-lock is out of the way enough to allow the new module to seat properly.

Again, took a couple of attempts since I was working blind, but eventually it was in place...

It clicks a bit louder, but works great ... no more hyper-fast flashing LEDs

Has anyone tried replacing reverse lights with LED?

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