Is this brake estimate right?

Alright, the VX was making a horrible schreeching noise. I took it to the dealer to check it out and they tell me that the right rear caliper threw a pad. This let the piston push itself into the rotor. And here's what they want to fix and how much.

• Rear-
• Calipers $120 a piece (replace both sides)
• Rotors - $150 a peice
• Pads- $72
• Lube and such- $28
• Labor - $288
• Brake flush - $79
• Total- $1009

And they said I have about 3mm on the front and the rotors can't be resurfaced (I might want to check this out myself) So they want to redo the front brakes along with repacking the bearings (I was going to do this anyway)

• Front-
• Rotors- $100 each
• Pads -$72
• Lube -$26
• Bearing seal set -$28
• Bearing repack and labor -$259
• Total -$585

So my question is:

Do I need all this? (i obviously need some of the rear stuff)
Can I do this myself? (i am mechanically inclined)
Are their prices inline with what you guys have experieced?

If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools brakes are not that difficult. I think some people just don't trust themself's to mess with brakes since it is what stops you. But they are pretty easy.

Just for something to compare that figure to…
Advance Auto recently quoted me a price for new pads and rotors, for all four corners, for a bit less than $200.00 – That would only leave you needing the calipers (and IMO, you probably only need the one).

Granted, it wouldn’t all be OEM parts, but still.

Like Bill just said - if you’ve got the tools, brakes aren’t very had to do at all.
(Hell, if *I* can do it, practically anyone can! :p )

Seems about right to me for OEM parts from what I've seen. I was shocked to find out how much our rotors cost! :_wtf:

I think you can get the pads for cheaper though and the caliper price seems a bit low. Find out if that is for a NEW OEM replacement.

Is that a caliper rebuild kit for that price? Or a used replacement?

I wouldn't think that a new caliper would be that cheap. If I remember right it cost me somewhere just under $1000 for two new calipers on my Jeep Wranger.

Which was not covered under waranty, because it was a wear item!

you can pay me the $1590 to fly from Boise to Nebraska and order all the parts, fix your VX, pay for my room and board, and the round trip back.

Calipers and rotors should be around $75 ea at best and decent pads for ~$50 - it is an easy job - I taught my 55 yr old brother to do it on his infiniti. The shop wanted over $600 to do it, we replaced front rotors, calipers and pads for under $300 in about an hour.

Be sure to clean and lube the pins the calipers float on so they don't stick again - same thing happened to me. Radiator flush can be done at home, bearing repack / seal replacement is a little tricky but there are instructions on 4x4 wire that help and I certainly wouldn't pay that much - grease is cheap and the seals only cost $8ea at most.

Brake fluid flush is a good idea but you can do it yourself with a buddy or by yourself with http://speedbleeder.com/ products

Call me when you are doing any of this and I''ll walk ya through it.

Your dealer has a sense of what should be done while the mechanics are doing the brake work (the fluid is o.k., but why not flush it while the calipers are off, etc.), so, YES, you do need this work done (lubes, fluids, pads, rotors).

HOWEVER,
Their prices are way too high.
This is just a quick check from my 'friends' at RockAuto.com:

Loaded (with Raybestos Ceramic pads) Rear Calipers =$87.79 + 69.00 core = $156.79 each
(remember, you get that core charge back -not so with the stealership).
Matching front pads (PG Premium) = $29.79
Front Rotors (ACDelco #18A570) = $53.79
Rear Rotors (#18A568) = $75.79

I can't tell you how much lube and labor should cost, but if I were talking parts alone, your dealer deserves a kick in the man berries.

I ordered a new master cylinder from RockAuto.com a few weeks ago. $148.00 (with a $20.00 core), shipped to Alaska (in 4 days!).
Everywhere else quoted $350+ for the same part.
Their website is a little weird, but I've been using them for @4 years and they have consistently delivered great parts on time.

I just found Rockauto myself, and their price was half what the mechanics wanted for a toe rod end for an alignment on my chrysler. Good to see someone giving them a vote of confidence. My VX needs a break check soon too so this will help with that as well.

John M>

Thanks for all the responses, really snapped me back to reality! Now I remember why I started doing all my maintence and repairs myself.

Thanks for the rockauto tip mbeach, definately the place to get parts, bought my calipers from em.

I pulled the right rear brakes apart and they weren't kidding.. Everything is definately toasted. Found the pad and it was a molten wafer, the rotor could be used to rough sand and the caliper and piston were welded together.


So I ended up ordering the following:

• Powerslot rotors all around
• EBC Greenstuff pads
• Stainless steel braided lines from Indy
• Superwinch hubs
• Both rear calipers
• All new front bearings and seals

And the best part is that it all cost me less than what the dealer wanted for rotors/pads/calipers/labor for just the rear

Now the VX will just have to sit in the garage and wait, leaking brake fluid for a few weeks until I finish all my thesis research... Good thing there's a bus stop by my house.

too funny Spazz, but point well made :)

Check Napa.. I bought my rotors from them, and I can't remember the price but way lower.. I'm thinking near 50 per rotor. I bought the pads from St. Charles.. The job I thought was easy, but again, not having done bearings before, there's a write up on planetisuzoo.com for the amigo that's the same. Oh, there's one trick as well.. there's a screw hole in the rear rotor, put an M6 metric bolt in there and it'll pop the rotor right off.. mine was stuck.

I have only 2 tips:
Get a seal puller (for the front bearing seals) -it costs @$6.
Follow the planetisuzoo advice for buying new screws for the front lockrings BEFORE you get started. You will destroy the old ones during removal. If you can't get them out, use a Dremel to slot the screwheads and tap them out with a punch and a small hammer (tapping them counter-clockwise).