Bank 2 Sensor 2 replacement tip

If you got a CEL like me, and have to replace Bank 2 Sensor 2, you'll probably think its pretty straight forward. Well, the sensor may be easy to get to, but I couldn't jam my ogre-hands up between the frame rail, the still-hot catalytic converted, through the shifter linkage and up next to the body floor to disconnect the pig tail. The VX really needs a couple of midgets to come standard OEM.

Anyways, what I ended up doing, and it worked really well, is disconnected the transmission shifter linkage from the shifter knob. (Really easy, just a simple "aligator" pull pin disconnects the whole thing) The I went inside and removed the whole center console assembly between the ECM and the arm rest module. There are a couple of wiring harnesses you need to disconnect, and 4 bolts that hold a (probably rusted like mine) plate down to the "hump". There are also two screws hidden under the insulation material on the passenger side of the hump. Once all that is taken apart you can pry open the plate with a screwdriver, and lift it up. I propped it open with a mountain dew bottle while I worked. The pigtail harness is right there and easy to get to. Just unplug the harness, then go remove the sensor. Put the new sensor in, plug the harness in, and make sure you put the christmas tree plug into the provided mounting hole to keep it away from the hot bits!

I just wanted to pass along this tip. I was struggling for an hour trying to jam my hand up in that space with no results and mild burns on my arm. Took me less than 30 minutes to pop open the center console and once I had done that, it was smooth going.

:thumbup:
Thanks for the tip -I think that'll be one of the jobs I have lined up for this summer.

Thats a common false code for EGR leak or intake gasket leak.

John C.

OK smartie... find yourself looking for a job on the central Fla. coast,give me a ring. That ability to think sideways is what we need ( and some body,mechanical,electrical,suspension,interior,and paint of course) Wayne

hotsauce,

I replaced by EGR "gasket" two oil changes ago.

I tested my IMG using the carb cleaner method, and it was leak-free.

Since the sensor was replaced, about 300 miles ago, no CEL. I made sure to check all the contingencies before I went ahead and blew $50 on a new O2 sensor.

Chopper, I'm moving to Georgia in July, if I continue my more southerly route, I'll end up in Florida in about 8 years. You guys have better sailing weather too.

I usually check O2 sensor with a DVM. The failure mode is low voltage, and slow cycleing at idle. Low reading on O2 sensor is lean, and whatever the cause the ECU will adjust fuel trims to try to bring the reading back to normal, Once the short or long term trim runs off the fuel map it sets a CE.

Any leak downstream of the air meter will cause lean readings, enough that during decell it can set a CEL. Theres no fuel to mix with the unmetered air.

O2 sensors do go bad sometimes. Either from age, contact with a rock, or poisoning from antifreeze or silicone that finds its way into the intake. Leaded gass will also ruin an O2 sensor.

John C.

Not to mention... when the radio sez it's time to go... a few of our techs (to remain nameless) head to the inlet to surf. Shop is mighty empty on race days as well (it's Daytona, we do cars, certain things just are... like the shop refrigerator full of 9 kinds of 5 o'clock beer.They just are)