I am changing the plugs on my rig... Just to serve my anal needs do I want to put anti seize or ti-prep on my plugs? I know I have issues but proper is proper...
Could someone indulge me with some 411.
Granpa Bob, tone??
Printable View
I am changing the plugs on my rig... Just to serve my anal needs do I want to put anti seize or ti-prep on my plugs? I know I have issues but proper is proper...
Could someone indulge me with some 411.
Granpa Bob, tone??
got it figured...
Well if you use a quality plug for an aluminum head you should be fine. I prefer Japanse plugs: denso or NGK. Not sure it matter by all my cars and race car have NGK. And they all aluminum heads.
Anti seize any time there are dissimilar metals being assembled together especially spark plugs in aluminum heads. Your should also use the spark plug boot grease so the coils don't stick to the long boots by your next change.
Tightening, Torque and Anti-Seize Compounds:Quote:
Originally Posted by xdfarrx
[From AC Delco] Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
[From NGK]* Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.* An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.* The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it’s hot and installation may prove difficult. [From Denso] If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening.
[Tip from Underhood Service Magazine]* One vehicle manufacturer warns against using antiseize because antiseize acts like a lubricant and may allow the plugs to be overtightened, which can damage the threads. If you do use antiseize on the threads, their advice is to reduce the tightening torque on the plugs 40%.
[Tip from Autolite]* We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds*are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.** Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time.** You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.
Thanks....
i deal with this all the time at work.the only time it seems to be an issue is with race fuel. we have many boats that we service with aluminum heads. and have only had problems with the boat that runs race fuel all the time. there is something in the fuel that causes corrosion. that is the only one that we put never seize on the plugs. we use NGK spark plugs. shawn
I'd rather them potentially coming loose rather than stuck in the head pulling the threads out - 100K change intervals. I replaced mine at 10K and it was very uncomfortable using the force required to get them out - never had a problem using the antiseize on the VX or my aluminum race skiis in the gulf.Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Dragon
I did it with no delay or hassle. That last ignition module/plug on drivers side is a real peach...
Tone, did you miss this part when reading?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tone
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels,and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
i have seen first hand what happens with pre-ignition and detonation. it is not a pretty sight.i am not saying to use or not to use anti seize but you do not want the plugs too loose or too tight. shawn
13 ft lbs. all the way around. Thanks GPa Bob-