Printable View
Just finished checking my shim valve clearances. Very many that are out of spec. Need to get to the shims so I can get their sizes for the replacement shim equation. Service manual says to use a J-42689 valve clearance adjusting tool to get the shims out. Haven't been able to find one so far. Does anyone have this that would be willing to part with? Or know how to get one?
Over $300.00 but ... https://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Mo...9_p_31353.html
I did see that during my search. Definitely won't be buying for that price. Which leaves only one other option...take out the whole camshaft assembly to access the shims. Reading the service manual, I was wondering if all the steps are necessary.
1. Remove fixing bolt for camshaft drive gear pulley using the J-4341 universal holder.
2. Remove twenty fixing bolts from inlet and exhaust camshaft bracket on one side bank, then camshaft brackets.
3. Remove camshaft assembly.
4. Remove three fixing bolts from camshaft drive gear retainer, then camshaft drive gear assembly.
I would rather leave the drive gear pulley alone if I can (step 1 and 4)...I know timing is going to be an issue. Is it enough to just remove the brackets and pull the cams out? (step 2 and 3)
Honestly I have no idea. I have never dug that deep into an engine.
If you pull the cams out, you have to completely re-time the engine anyway. Do it properly or not at all.
PK
Generally when your valves clearances get out of clearance a rebuild would be the best route. For the price of that tool you can have your heads rebuilt and buy a gasket set. Adjusting is just prolonging the inevitable. Loose = cam wear. Tight = valve stretch, seat wear. IMO
I found an alternative to the hard-to-find J-42689 tool that worked for me.
Valve Lash Adjustment Tool Set
J-39871-1 Kent Moore (depressor)
J-39871-2 Kent Moore (spacer)
Purchased for $18 on eBay. The spacer's shape looked similar to J-42689, so I took a chance to see if it would work. I was able to access all shims easily.
(There were some occasions when I didn't have enough room on the intake side to turn the depressor all the way to depress the tappet enough for the spacer to slip in. I didn't remove some nearby outer hardware next to the cylinder head, which ended up blocking the handle sometimes. For this, instead of using the depressor, I turned the main crankshaft pulley until the cam lobe depressed the tappet, then slid in the spacer, held the spacer in place while I turned the crankshaft pulley until the cam lobe was off. From there, did as usual, which is find the notch in the tappet's rim, use a flat head screwdriver to pry up the shim, and remove shim with a magnet.)
For those in need, I hope this helps.
Thelgord, thanks for reminding me about that site. I used the image as my reference.
PK, definitely agree on doing things properly. I asked if some of those steps in the service manual were really necessary because…my maintenance skills are novice at best…and, there were times I found the manual giving steps beyond the scope of what I had in mind. For example, to remove a cylinder head cover, the manual says to remove the fan and clutch assembly, pretty much all the various pulleys, the timing belt covers, etc… In this case, I think the manual assumes you’re doing a complete unit disassembly to do a full-scale maintenance effort, when actually you just want to remove a small segment...a cylinder head cover. Thankfully, I did learn not all of that was needed just to remove a cover. Also thankfully, for my previous post about pulling out the camshaft assembly, those alternative tools spared me from going that route.
Nikad92397, I will for sure keep your advice in mind for the long run.