Transmission Dead

I have a 2001 Vehicross that I bought in 2007. It was my daily driver up until 2013, then it became my winter car. I live in Chicago. So for the past 2 years I only drove it maybe 4 to 5 months out of the year.

I put it into storage around April of this year, 2015. For about a month before I put it in storage I notice the transmission slipping between second and third gear. I checked this forum and others about this. The common problem being low fluid levels. So like an idiot I stored it for the warmer months thinking a transmission flush and fluid refill would fix the problem. I prepped the car last week. Getting it out of storage and checking the normal mechanical, electrical, and fluid checks.

Today I was driving to my go-to shop to get the transmission fluid flushed and changed. About a block out of the driveway it wouldn't go into second and when I stop I would have to rev it up to 5,000-6,000 rpm's for several seconds to engage it into first gear. After another block the "check trans" light came on.

I barely made it back to my house and into the drive way before the car just shut itself down. I can turn the key to ACC to engage electronics and shift controls, but it cuts itself off when trying to turn the engine on. I have a few questions.

1. Do you think the starter is bad now?

2.Or is this some kind of safety feature in order to save the transmission from further damage?

3. Has anyone had these transmission problems too?

4. If so, how much did I it cost to fix?

As a heads up if it costs more than $1,500 to fix I'm scrapping my VehiCross. So if anyone wants to make an offer. I'm on the south side of Chicago in a town called Oak Lawn

Thanks for reading and any help you may be able to offer

Sorry for your issues man.

Doesn't sound like a starter issue. My best guess would be that the gear selector could need a good rebuild (easy to do it yourself if you have time or not too costly if you don't) or a safety switch which is fairly easy as well.

As for your transmission service, if you have never flushed your transmission before DO NOT START NOW. Lot's of members did a flush for the first time at higher mileage only to need a complete rebuild in a short time. Just drain the fluid, replace the filter, and fill the fluid properly as stated in the shop manual.

If you end up needing a transmission rebuild I don't think you'll be able to get that done for your budget of $1,500 depending on what's needed. If you have them start with just replacing the electric solenoids you'll have a chance. Many members have had shifting issues and just replacing the electrics fixed their problems. This does not require the removal of the transmission since they are located in the smaller pan and are fairly easy to access. If you do a search using the key word solenoid you'll find plenty of good reading and excellent help.

I'm sure others will chime in, but that's my .02 cents.

Hope you can get her fixed and back on the road soon!

I have one id sell ya for 1k shipped. Shop should only charge few hundred to swap. But yea a new rebuilt trans can run 2/3k An if ya want to sell it id buy it for the right price.

Thanks. Here's to hoping it's just the selector and or solinoids. I won't be able to get it towed until Friday, but I'll update with status.

Sounds like a low fluid issue to me. You can easily check the fluid level in your driveway. Just make sure to follow the proper procedure which has been posted here many times. Only tool needed is the proper size wrench. If you need to fill the fluid you will need an inexpensive pump (get at auto parts store for under $15) and of course the proper type/amount fluid.

Forgot to update everyone. The symptoms I had were similar to low fluid levels because the lines were all corroded making the engine think no fluid was going into the trans. The reason it stopped starting was just a worn ou starter. $450 at my go-to shop with labor. Runs great now. Thanks for all your input.

you gotta find a good tranny shop. I had a rebuild quote for $1250 all inclusive with warranty. REBUILD is the way to go over REPLACE with something from a SALVAGE YARD. A used one may look good, be cheap, but you don't know what your getting and could be dead again quick. VEHICROSS has a General Motors, yes, a GM 4L30E. When you call tranny shops, thats what you ask about. I want to rebuild a GM 4L30E. don't say what it's in or out of. As soon as you say it's and Isuzu Vehicross, it will cost more. Mostly because what a pain in the *** it will be. Guaranteed to have a dozen bolts snap taking the tranny out for the rebuild guy. It's a super B I T C H! I have been for a for a few years now on a rebuild. Also, consider allowing the tranny shop you find to install a REAL tranny intercooler and BY-PASS the factory one built into the radiator. I saw the but way from one of the. JOKE! It's does nothing. Will actually HEAT UP your fluid rather than slightly cool it. An real one can be easily and cheaply mounted anywhere upfront around the rust and decay we all have. My all inclusive repair ended up replacing the actual casing of my tranny because of wear points to inputs. A good transmission man will have LOTS of table space, clean and spread out. My tranny was spread out on 4 large 8 foot by 4 foot tables, hundreds of parts, all that have to be inspected very carefully, cleaned and put back together with a rebuild kit. Don't fall for anything upgraded or whatever. This is a GM 4L30E that has its origin in the Cheverlet Chevette. Yes, a tiny 4-banger econo car, it evolved slightly, then was used in totally the WRONG CAR, the ISUZU Vehicross. It is a WEAK trany designed for 2 wheel drive light cars, certainly NOT a 4WD all the time car. I was very disappointed with figuring thing stuff out and paid heavily for it but I should be good to go! You must find a mom & pop tranny shop, that needs the work and knows the basic GM4L30E that is burned inside my eyeballs $$$$$. A 1 year warranty is standard on such work and there is no reason to ever change the fluid again unless you do another 100K. Trannys are CLEAN inside, the only part of a VX that is clean and minty. Tranny fluid is clean and a good cleaner. It can be saved. Taking out the tranny requires removal of the center member, most of the bolts holding it will break off. Shop will have to cut in new bolts and cut into the ends of the member to drop in new ones, use stainless steel ones. I went out and got lots of bolts and put back all the highest grade A stainless steel metrics ones I could find. I took the entire exahaust systems down since it's all in the way. I took it home, sanded everything, replaced some and painted all of it with highest temp paint, and had it all put back with new stainless steel bolts and gaskets. All in, I was $1800 with the extra work. I only with I had replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors because they come out a hell of alot easier with exhaust down. They are fused to the pipes and have to be cut out with a torch and new mounts are easily available generic and a shop can weld them in and then put in new cheap sensors, under $20 ea on rockauto, else you get codes................ PM or call if you need help, always happy to save a VX for our ultimate Mission to Mars! =) I will help you find a tranny shop where you live and make some calls for you, I done is for 2 other VX owners in distress, been there, done that. After 3 weeks, I just got done replacing headlights, nitemare, but now done!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0796.JPG http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/IMG_0254.jpg

I have 2 daily driver VX's with over 110 K on each. Never any tranny problems. I put them on all synthetics early on.

I got the solenoids replaced, and that fixed my issues. Here is the saga of my fix

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...ed-help-please

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