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So my engine check light result came back "Knock sensor" Does that mean the knock sensor is bad? Or that the knock sensor is sensing knocks.
If it is a bad knock sensor. Is this a DIY job for a non-wrencher like myself??
Thanks in advance for your help
Bryan
Bryan,
It means that there was a bad enough knock that the computer couldn't compensate for it. It could be a bad sensor. It could be a bad spark plug. It could be a bad coil. Your engine could have gotten wet enough to allow water to pool in the spark plug well. You could have gotten some bad gas at your last fill-up.
The first step is to clear the code and wait to see if it comes back.
Tom
How has the engine been running/idling? Any roughness?
It sounds like lifter's knocking much of the time. Especially pronounced if I'm accelerating to pass.
Would too much oil have any effect??. I am kind of paranoid since I blew the last engine without warning. So I am anal about keeping the oil topped off and may overfill a bit from time to time.
It was a replacement engine that had about 160k on it. I did not rebuild it before I put it in because I didn't have the funds or time (it's my daily driver)
Did the code come back that it sensed a knock or that the knock sensor is bad? Do you remember the code? It will, more than likely, begin with a "P". Maybe P0325, P0327, etc. My knock sensor actually went bad, but I can't remember the code that it was throwing right now. If you have to replace it, the knock sensor is a bit of a bear to get to as it is buried beneath the intake manifold in the well between the cylinder banks.
I took some pictures when I replace my knock sensor, so if you get to the point of needing to replace it I can post them up if you think they would help.
"Code p0327
Code definition: Knock/combustion Vibration Snesor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or single sensor
Causes: No possible causes available
Reported Fixs: Replace Knock sensor(s)
Yep, same kind of code I got when I had to replace my knock sensor. Since the knock sensor itself is bad it shouldn't hurt the engine to keep driving it. I actually drove mine for six months to a year before I got around to replacing it. Just had to keep re-setting the CEL (have an Scan Gauge code reader in the VX).
You don't need to be super mechanically inclined to replace the knock sensor, but you will have to remove your intake manifold to get to it, and in order to do that there are a lot of hoses and things that you will need to remove. Actually, you MIGHT be able to leave everything connected and just move the intake manifold out of the way enough to get down to the knock sensor.
Like I said, I think I took a few pictures when I replaced mine and I'd be happy to post them up here or try and put together some instructions and send them your way.