New Rotors And Pads All Around

My front rotors are badly warped and have been for months. I finally got up the courage to spend some money to try and replace the buggers. I thought, 'why not upgrade?', so I bought a set of 4 dimpled and slotted rotors plus brakes from brakeperformance.com http://brakeperformance.com/brake-ro...ake-Rotors.php
https://brakeperformance.com/images/...kits-black.jpg


I'm waiting for them to arrive to start the replacement project.

I would like to replace the brake lines with steel braided ones while I'm down there, but not sure if I have the money for them. Would it be worth getting and replacing the brake lines at the same time as the rotors and pads? Or is it easy enough to just replace them separately?

I'm in the same boat ... except I need to replace the calipers too.

That made my decision easier on getting the SS brake lines. If you're going to break open the system, then that's the time to do it all at once. It's just not worth replacing the calipers this year and waiting till next year to do the brake lines. If you're going to replace/upgrade both eventually, it should be done at the same time.

I replaced brakes and rotors when I did my front bearings. New rotors were drilled and slotted, easy job. Brake lines not sure about that, why are you changing?

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Originally Posted by soggybottomboyz

I replaced brakes and rotors when I did my front bearings. New rotors were drilled and slotted, easy job. Brake lines not sure about that, why are you changing?

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I'm not sure exactly what you're question is.. Why am I changing to drilled/slotted? Or why am I changing to SSB break lines?

In my first post, I noted that my rotors are badly warped in front. This is causing a massive shimmy when slowing down. I thought that since I need new rotors, why not get the ones I wanted right off the bat?

I like the idea of better stopping capability with the drilled/slotted rotors. Before my rotors were warped, the braking on my VX didn't seem quick enough(at least, not as quick as the other vehicles I had at the time).

With new pads and rotors, I should see performance improvements when stopping. However, I was also wanting to get SSB brake lines to keep me from having to press very firmly on the brake for a good response.

But if I don't have to mess with opening the brake lines up, I don't think I'll be getting the SSB lines, because I just spent more than I wanted to on brakes and rotors and what I get will have to do for now. Maybe next year I'll get the SSB lines.

Yea I was asking about the line, sorry I should have been more clear. I am not a brake guy. I am more of a bolt off bolt on type of person. I am sure someone on the site can be off help to you regarding the lines.

You don't need to replace the brake lines at the same time that you replace the pads and calipers. If you don't have any braking issues now (other than the warped rotor) they you won't have any issues after replacing pads and rotors. As a matter of fact, your braking may get better with the new stuff.

Like Tom said, if you're going to open up the system, then by all means do the lines at the same time, but you don't need to open the system in order to replace pads and rotors. I went to slotted and drilled rotors many years ago, and since I wanted to paint my calipers to, I went ahead and installed the stainless steel lines at the same time. There are quite a few here who are lifted with large tires who still have the stock rubber lines (Jo was one of them for a while, I think) and they are doing just fine. Just check out the existing lines while your there installing the pads and rotors to make sure they look good and aren't cracked and you should be good to so.

The rotors and brakes came today... they weren't exactly what I was expecting from the pictures.

http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psj6mfm06b.jpg
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3b4ymjle.jpg
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psvm6eowzg.jpg

Overall, they do look pretty nice. I should paint my calipers yellow.

If you have the chance, DEFINITELY do something with your calipers while you have it torn down....

I am on my complete 2nd set cause the salty winters here manage to rust them up so bad they seize up and wreck my rotors and pads. And considering I only drive it on Sundays and it is garage kept, it aint saying much about our calipers (probably says about our overuse of salt though).

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Originally Posted by WormGod

If you have the chance, DEFINITELY do something with your calipers while you have it torn down....

I am on my complete 2nd set cause the salty winters here manage to rust them up so bad they seize up and wreck my rotors and pads. And considering I only drive it on Sundays and it is garage kept, it aint saying much about our calipers (probably says about our overuse of salt though).

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Thanks for the heads up. My state doesn't allow salt on roads, but I'm sure those calipers need a good inspection anyway. Maybe I should just take them apart, paint them if they're able to be reused, and save up for SSB brake lines while the opportunity is available. I haven't driven the poor thing in months, and I just know the battery is dead again, so I'll jump it and park it back in my garage to work on it at my convenience.

There are really only 2 failure modes for calipers.

1. The most common failure mode is that the two rods that the calipers slide on can become rusty/corroded. A simple cleaning and greasing will suffice to correct this failure mode.

2. Much less frequently, the piston in the caliper itself can bind/stick. I've had pretty good luck with forcing the piston along the full range of motion of travel. I use a very large C clamp to compress the piston and then pump the brake pedal to run it back out. 5 cycles seems to be the magic number for me.

I've never rebuilt a caliper so I don't know what comes in a rebuild kit. I'm guessing that rebuild is only effective for failure mode 1.

If you're experiencing failure mode 2 & exercising it through the full range of motion doesn't fix it, I'm guessing that replacement rather than rebuild will be needed.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

BTW, I've only experience the sticking piston thinggy once but corroded slides many times.

Ok. So I started the project today and came to a quick halt by this. . .

http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psweriqd6e.jpg

How do I get this off? Is there a special tool needed or does this screw off?

My buddy and I figured it out after watching a video. The rotors off and separated from the hub. Now we're working on getting the abs part of the rotor.

One rotor off, three to go! http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psq1gzh5tk.jpg

Remember to use disk brake quiet. . .
We might have gone overboard. http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psk1atyp0g.jpg

All rotors and brake pads have been replaced! It was surprisingly simple to do, once all the right tools were used and the rears took us about ten minutes to replace. The front rotor was the toughest to figure out at first, but the second front one went quickly. I'd say 30 minutes for the whole remove and replace.

The rear caliper pistons are really rusty and need to be replaced ASAP
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswgaq6ajq.jpg

The rear oem rotors are still good, and the brake pads still have a lot of life left in them if anybody is in need of a set.
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfdo3kgsv.jpg
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscrfhqihc.jpg