Brakes done, still a little mushy

It always bothered me that my VX's brakes are mushy and you have to push the pedal all the way into the floor to stop, so I decided to make some upgrades. After reading every thread that i found on this forum I got following installed: R1 Concepts rotors (drilled / slotted fronts - just for looks, regular backs) Independent4X SS brake lines, and OEM pads. BTW, unless i miss something in my records, previous OEM pads Lasted me for about 70k miles!
Breaking seems to be a lot better now, I feel decent braking starts when pedal is 1/3 way down or so, but i still don't have that feel I get from a rental car when I push pedal slightly and it brakes really hard. Are there any other reasonably priced upgrades i should consider? Master cylinder was replaced about a year ago due to leaks.

Turn ABS off. That is the only thing that helped my braking in the VX get any better.

I replaced my front rotors and pads about 6 months ago (after 140,000 miles) with OEM parts and had Indy 4X4 stainless brake lines installed, and my brakes still feel a little soft compared to the brand new Fiesta I bought. :) It stops fine. It just feels like there is more pedal travel than there should be. Like there is air in the lines, but there shouldn't be... if they bled the brakes correctly... which they should because I brought the service procedure to them and asked specifically if they had followed THIS PROCEDURE. They ensured me it was done per the manual. As long as it stops I won't open the bleeders.

I had mine done and the results were the same. Our VXs are not designed to lock the brakes up and even when my ABS was out it was the same.

Stops fine but it's not my Camaro!

I definitely can lock up my brakes. Have done it. My abs is out. The VX is a heavy vehicle with 1999 brake technology. It never will stop as well as a Fiesta at less than half the weight with modern technology.

dup

My ABS is out right now, but i intend to fix it - help a lot during ski trips. At any rate, it seems reasonable that 99 tech is no match 1-2 year old rental cars, as far a s weight - I remember renting a big mini van last year and loading it up for burning man and I was impressed by its stopping ability compared to VX.
P.S. my other car is smart - now that thing STOPS :)

yup, same here. When I bought my vx it had just had new rotors and pads and it was still seeming "mushy." my much heavier h3 stops a little better, even with heavier tires and wheels.

I'll be doing a full brake job later this summer (calipers, rotors, SS lines). I have a sticking rear caliper that caused the rotor to get scored so I figured that while I have the system open, I should do the whole shootin match.

The only other upgrades I can think of to cure mushy brakes would be an aftermarket proportioning valve (adjustable) & maybe a better booster (but I have no idea what donor vehicle would work).

Another upgrade for better braking would be a drive shaft brake ... but you're looking at $$$ to get'r done. That's not an option for me though since it would install where I have the drive shaft quick disconnect installed.

Make sure the brakes are bled properly. If you have air in the lines the pedal will feel "mushy". Also doesn't hurt to re-bleed them.

SS Lines make the biggest difference here as they will eliminate the rubber lines which would otherwise stretch.

Will be upgrading my brakes next month. SS Lines, Rotors, Pads and Calipers.

T.

Tom, quick word of advice when doing your brake job this summer; do NOT leave the system, or at least the master cylinder, open for very long. I did the same as you a few years ago (replaced rotors, pads, painted calipers and installed stainless steel lines) and I left the system open for a few days while I got all of that done. Once I put everything back together the braking seemed even worse than it did before. The VX would stop OK, but if I kept my foot on the pedal it would eventually go to the floor. Finally figured out that some of the seals in the master cylinder were bad and had to replace it. Now, it may have been on it's way out before I did the brake job, but a couple of mechanic friends told me that letting the system sit dry may have ruined the seals in the master.:_confused

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Originally Posted by MSHardeman

Tom, quick word of advice when doing your brake job this summer; do NOT leave the system, or at least the master cylinder, open for very long. I did the same as you a few years ago (replaced rotors, pads, painted calipers and installed stainless steel lines) and I left the system open for a few days while I got all of that done. Once I put everything back together the braking seemed even worse than it did before. The VX would stop OK, but if I kept my foot on the pedal it would eventually go to the floor. Finally figured out that some of the seals in the master cylinder were bad and had to replace it. Now, it may have been on it's way out before I did the brake job, but a couple of mechanic friends told me that letting the system sit dry may have ruined the seals in the master.:_confused

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Yah, I'll get an early start & try to get'r done in a day. Should be doable (was able to do same on a Samurai once).

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Yah, I'll get an early start & try to get'r done in a day. Should be doable (was able to do same on a Samurai once).

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Just make sure to keep the master cylinder filled. I just did hoses, calipers, pads and rotors on my DD. I put pads rotors and new calipers on and got them tight then removed the hose from the old caliper, kept the time the system was open very short.

When you bleed the brakes remember the VX is a little different. If your ABS is working you need to pull the fuse for the ABS then make sure the VX is running through the entire bleeding process. Take a look at my write up on replacing the ABS module for tips on bleeding the system.

You may also benefit from allowing each new caliper to gravity bleed for 30 min or so before pressure bleeding. just keep an eye on it to make sure you dont run the master cylinder dry.

The brakes on my Rodeo are really good, just have to barely touch them. After driving my Volvo and work van for a while I just about put myself through the windshield when I drive the Rodeo. It has stainless lines, slotted rotors, and ceramic pads. It can take a lot of bleeding to get all the air out of them. I did it several times the day I did all the brake work then a few more times during the next couple days.

I have all the same parts on the way here to do the Volvo so hopefully I get those brakes to work just as well.

There is just something plain wrong with the VX brakes. I have new master cylinder, booster, calipers, EBC green pads, cross drilled rotors, SS lines and they still suck. The trooper is the same rig, it stops on a dime. The only difference being the proportioning valve and the ABS system. I am at a loss, my pedal is firm, it just doesnt stop.