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1) It's practically built into the suspension thanks to the scrub radius given by the factory
2) Wide tires make it worse
3) Shorter/stiffer sidewalls make it worse
4) Tires worn conical over time make it worse
5) Worn A-arm bushings really make it worse
6) Slop in the strut mounts makes it worse
7) Slop in the rack bushings or in the tie rod ends makes it worse
8) Aggressive camber settings make it worse
9) Bad balljoints make it worse
How you mitigate it depends on what's worn. The biggest most noticeable change will come from new tires, but that's only temporary if you don't address any other issues, particularly the A-arm bushings and strut mounts.
Installing some caster/camber plates will take you an afternoon and no heavy lifting, and it'll lock your strut tops in place so they don't get tugged all over when the car is in motion. Addressing the A-arm bushings takes more work but is still do-able by a determined shadetree mechanic. If you have wear on the inside edges of your tires on both sides, this is almost certainly a major contributor. Most people want to blame that on the negative camber, but that's just an irritant in the whole equation, the real problem is poor control of the toe setting, and that's because the A-arms are moving in their pockets due to weak bushings. Tie rod ends can cause the same kind of wear, but you'll usually notice your wheel is no longer centered if that's the problem, as usually one side is wearing out before the other and the steering still self-centers, but toe'd out.
The alignment guy did mention that my passenger side tie rod wasn't in great condition and I did note that the steering wheel was not quite centered after offroading and before my most recent alignment. I see that some people are using the Indy4x HD tie rods?