Bottle jacks....Screw jacks...Steel Shores????

We've been looking for better/easier jack options to use on our 4,000 lb camper.
We need min 17", up to about 22". Can use wood blocks to add height.
Got 2 scissor jacks for the back, PITA to use with crank handle.
We use 3 ton jack stands once up.
Even if we got the socket/drill to raise or lower, it's still a PITA.
Also felt the narrow footprint at base wasn't the most secure.

So we started looking at screw jacks for their continuous height ability, (not fixed increments).

THOUGHTS, RECOMMENDATIONS, SUGGESTIONS???

1)
Found this combo of a bottle jack AND jack stand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...LL._SS500_.jpg

But.....often heard bottle jacks will ALWAYS leak...and if they suddenly fail, they drop and either kill you or the camper would come crashing down.

So......when I found this combo one, liked idea that the jack stand prevents the catastrophic failure if the bottle jack fails....hmmmm....
Several reviews on Amazon say the bottle jack leaked......

• What's your experience with bottle jacks?
  
• Any certain brands recommended?
  
• Tips for preventing failure?
  
• Ever heard of this brand "PowerBuilt"?

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Here's 2 screw jack models we found...seemed the one with the bearings would be good......



2)
http://ellisok.com/ellisok/products_36screw.html#SS-36

BELOW our Custom Steel Shore Specially Designed For Easy Adjustment
http://ellisok.com/ellisok/file_uplo...STL-13_sdw.jpg

Built as one complete unit, this Steel Shore will not come apart.
We've designed the wingnut assembly to house tiny bearings that
allow for significantly less friction and easier turning under load.
The 6" x 6" top plate is attached with a clevis pin and
interchangeable with different sizes.

Choose from any of the sizes above and we will
customize your Steel Shore so it will not come apart.
The chart below illustrates several options to choose from.


STEEL SHORES WITH ROLLER BEARINGS

Item # Range of Adjustment Load Capacity Weight Price
STL-14 14" to 18" 20,000 Lbs. 19 Lbs. $76
STL-20 20" to 28" 18,000 Lbs 22 Lbs $80
STL-24 24" to 36" 16,000 Lbs. 24 Lbs. $90
STL-38 38" to 62" 12,000 Lbs 31 Lbs. $95
In the product animation to the left, you will notice the needle bearings inside the wingnut. Thes bearings greatly reduce the amount of friction when the handle is turned to adjust the height under load

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3) (not tall enough but could add wood)
http://www.ellisok.com/ellisok/file_...MJ-6_3inch.jpghttp://www.ellisok.com/ellisok/file_...3.5inchdwg.jpg

Ellis Mini Jack 5.5" Adj. (MJ-6)

Load Capacity: 15,000 Lbs / 7.5 Tons
(Includes 2.5 to 1 Factor of Safety)
Overall Height Screwed Down: 9-1/2"
Overall Height Fully Extended: 15"
Base Plate 4" Sq.
Top Plate: 4" Sq. (Swivels Independently from Screw)
Acme Screw Size: 1-1/4"
Range of Adustment: 5.5"
Lifting Capacity: 3,000 LBS. w/ 12" turning bar (MJ-TB12).

Make adjustments to the height of the Mini Jack by turning the turning wheel. A 3/4" round rod can be used for extra leverage (MJ-TB12). Top plate will swivel independently from the screw.

I carry some lightweight/stackable/screw type aluminum jackstands in the RV and a 9 Ton bottle jack. I just park the RV either level or with a slight bias toward the rear & place the jackstands under the skids. I then use the bottle jack to lift the front end & position the jackstands & release the bottle jack.

The bottle jack does a good job lifting but can settle over time so I rely on the jackstands for keeping it level.

I've never heard of a bottle jack failing catastrophically. They do tend to leak down though so you can't use them to hold the camper level overnight.

You'd think that my 7 ton RV would've come with an automatic leveling system but it didn't.

Just a thought sue, but isnt that screw jack gonna take quite a bit of leverage to lift a camper. It seems like it would be great to set something on, but a biotch to lift something. I know that construction scaffolding often uses bases like those screw jacks to adjust the scaffolding. If there is any weight on it, you cant lift it to save your life.

I would personally steer away from those. Bottle jacks are far stronger due to the assistance of hydaulics.
If it were me I would use a bottle jack to get it level, then use wood or really sturdy jack stands to hold it (much more sturdy than the one you have pictured). Plus then you would only need to store one bottle jack and 4 jack stands.
Or whats wrong with the old, drive one tire up on a 2x6 theory? I assume your trailer has a jack in the front to get it on and off the hitch, between driving up on a block and the jack on the nose, I would think it would be cake?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pbkid

I assume your trailer has a jack in the front to get it on and off the hitch, between driving up on a block and the jack on the nose, I would think it would be cake?

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Bingo!!!

A triangle is the most stable arrangement anyways.

When you get to your campsite & disconnect the trailer, keep the nose down slightly. Place your jackstands or blocks at each corner of the rear & jack up the tongue until level. If there is any side to side leveling needed, you should be able to eyeball that as you are placing your jackstands under the rear.

If the tongue jack is a PITA for you, there are 'lectric ones available.

The site lists a turning bar in 12", 24" and 36" which was needed for lifting on the MINI Screw jack......
BUT...under the "Steel Shores" model sold WITH the "needle / roller bearings", it emphasizes how "the bearings allow for significantly less friction and easier turning under load".
It doesn't mention a turning bar....so I assumed the wingnut with the bearings could be turned without it.
I may have assumed wrong...:goof:
I can call the company and ask.

STEEL SHORES WITH ROLLER BEARINGS
In the product animation to the left, you will notice the needle bearings inside the wingnut.
These bearings greatly reduce the amount of friction when the handle is turned to adjust the height under load.


VS.


MJ-3 Mini Screw Jack 2.5" Adjustment NEW 8 lbs. $41.00 Ea.

MJ-6 Mini Screw Jack 5.5" Adjustment NEW 11 lbs. $51.00 Ea.

MJ-TB12 Turning Bar 3/4" x 12" 1.5 lbs. $ 9.99 Ea.

MJ-TB24 Turning Bar 3/4" x 24" 3 lbs. $14.99 Ea.

MJ-TB36 Turning Bar 3/4" x 36" 4.5 lbs. $19.99 Ea.


Lifting Capacity: 3,000 LBS. w/ 12" turning bar (MJ-TB12).

Make adjustments to the height of the Mini Jack by turning the turning wheel. A 3/4" round rod can be used for extra leverage (MJ-TB12).

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We just don't like the stacking block/ramp routine. Tried it a few times with our teardrop trailer and didn't like it for some reason. We may revisit it as we haven't tried it with the bigger camper.
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We've been planning to pick up a set of 4 of the stacking ones like Tom mentioned.
We have these jack stands:
Torin T43006 3 Ton SUV Jack Stands, plus two 2-ton jack stands.
We'd use the jack stands for support, not the bottle jack.

Yeah Jack, we have the traditional A-shape trailer frame, and use the front trailer jack wheel to raise or lower, then the jack stands, to support.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...1&s=automotive

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

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ya know how sometimes when you write out or describe your problem to somebody else..... the obvious answer just suddenly becomes clear?.....I think that may have just happened....:goof:

The cranking rod on the scissor jack is a major PITA...we just wanted to dump the scissor jacks....but really the issue is the folding cranking rod....so we looked and see there's a few different rods available and look like they'll stay on much better....think we'll try that first.
Thanks all ya'll! :thumbup:

Glad we could help :)

seems like the majority of trailer owners use that method, so its most likely the most effective :thumbup: