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I was changing the tires and broke a wheel stud along the way....Before this I noticed that one was missing and the others were loose!
I am almost convinced that it was tampered with at some point, because all others were fine and on strong.
- How do you go about changing a wheel stud/screw/bolt? Can you purchase just one or should I buy all new ones?
- Is it safe to drive with 5/6 lug nuts on?
I have driven (and wheeled) mine with 5 no problems. To change them is not overly hard. Follow instructions for removing your brake disc. Hammer out old stud, hammer in new one. They are available at auto parts stores and locally Ace hardware store. I have done ALL of one side of the rear when all 6 sheered off at highway speed ( now that is fun) at the side of the road...I actually had a full set in the VX since I had one broke and intended on replacing them soon.
Lugnuts often loosen over the first 50 miles of driving or so, especially aftermarket or chrome wheels. Its important to re tighten after the first 25-50 miles. Older steel wheels can be bad too if the lugs have ever been over tightened, the holes will deform and the lug ntus wont stay tight. Generally there are only 2 things that cause a stud to break, cross theading of a lugnut or driving with lugnuts not properly tightened will create a weak spot and they will break when they are worked on. working in the shop I saw a broken stud every week. All but one fell into those two catagories.
As billy said they aren't hard to replace but you do need to remove the rotor so the fronts the bearings have to come apart too.. You will be fine on 5 for a while, but 6 is obviously better
I don't know if there is any 'opening' on the VX but ...
I was able to remove a broken stud on a 93 Eclipse without removing the rotor. rotate the rotor to where the broken stud alignes with the opening in the brake dust shield. Knock it out with a hammer. Fit new stud in from behind. Use a lug nut to draw the new stud into place.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da..._repack_01.jpg
Alright I am finally getting to installing the lug nut.
Do I have to take the rotor completely off to do this?
For those of you that have not messed with it, there isn't any clearance behind the lug before the rotor for it to pop out.
Could you just loosen the bolts that are in the middle of the wheel lugs and pop it off that way? Nevertheless, dumb question but how do you get the wheel from not spinning!?
Anyone?
You need to seperate the rotor from the hub on the front. The best way to keep it from spinning while loosening the six bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, is to use an air impact wrench, OR put a towel over the jaws of a large vice & use a socket & breaker bar...:_wrench:
The air impact is far easier...:yesgray:
Then use a pin or drift punch + hammer, to pound out the remainder of the broken stud. Put a new stud in from the back side, making sure that the splines line up (you'll see, once the old one is out)give it a few taps to get it started, put a couple washers just slightly larger than the stud on the new stud, then find a lug nut that has no decorative cap (the stud has to go all the way through the nut) put the lug nut on backwards (flat side against the hub) & draw it into the hole by tightening the nut until the flange on the back side is tight up against the back of the hub...done
Put it all back together in reverse order.
You only need to replace whats broken, unless ALL the nuts were loose,& driven on.
Also, most wheels/lugs/nuts/etc are so over engineered that it's ridiculous, no worries driving on 5.
:luck:
Couldn't get them to budge one bit!
No impact wrench.
-- Looks like I will do some light(er) wheeling this weekend, just in case.
I only started to worry as I wondered if that was causing my sudden case of shaking steering wheel?!
If you were driving with loose lugs, bad enough to cause shake in the steering, you would be wise to check all the studs & lug nut seats/holes in the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
If these are damaged, DON'T drive on it.
The tapered seats in the lug holes play a very important role in keeping your nuts from falling off...:yesgray:.:_wrench:
And this just might help...:smilewink
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC03973.JPG
Now that is clever, that should do the trick. Thanks!
I wheeled a bit without replacing it.
Side note: Huge different between 265/60-18 Yoko HT tires and 265/75-16 AT I used to run! Can't wait to get my new set finally. Selling the 20" in my gallery.
Good info, let me know how your replacement goes down the line. Just made a fool of myself and drove on loose lugs, breaking one. I loosened both sides before jacking, only had time/ patience for one side of brakes (difficulty getting bolts loose, no impact wrench), and forgot to tighten the side I didn't get to working on. Then I trailered my boat lmao. I was so disappointed in myself. In any case, now I'm in the same boat! So basically, we should do our breaks, rotors, and wheel bearings while we're there I guess!