Valve cover gaskets

Finally found small leak on driverside valve cover on gasket off one of the bolts. have been putting off doing intake and valve gaskets but want to atleast get this taken care of before long trip this weekend up to wisconsin for the tough mudder. Any helpful tips I may need to know with removal and instalation of valve covers? Time frame it will probably take? And last but not least torque for bolts when done don't want same problem to arise. Thanks in advance. Used to working on small blocks and big mopars. Finding there's always one little catch with taking apart something that's usually so simple. Also is rtv needed where seal butts up into timing covers? Can't be worse than pulling covers of early 80's vette with the 600 yards of vacuum tubing. Lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by p_justin13

Finally found small leak on driverside valve cover on gasket off one of the bolts. have been putting off doing intake and valve gaskets but want to atleast get this taken care of before long trip this weekend up to wisconsin for the tough mudder. Any helpful tips I may need to know with removal and instalation of valve covers? Time frame it will probably take? And last but not least torque for bolts when done don't want same problem to arise. Thanks in advance. Used to working on small blocks and big mopars. Finding there's always one little catch with taking apart something that's usually so simple. Also is rtv needed where seal butts up into timing covers? Can't be worse than pulling covers of early 80's vette with the 600 yards of vacuum tubing. Lol

---

Don't put a job like this off to the last moment especially if you will be needing advice. I suggest looking at the how to section and see if anythingthere can help you

95% of the job is really easy,
Buy the parts from NAPA or autozone (two valve cover gaskets plust the spark plug tubes and the grommets for the bolts ~50$).
Get an allen wrench socket set, plus an extra allen wrench socket of the right size that you can cut down.
Remove all the spark plug wires and see if you can remove some of the plastic wire runners around the valve cover ( I couldn't, so I had to sneak the valve covers out underneath them).
Remove the bolts. All bolts will be easy, except the bottom driver's side, nearest the firewall. There you will have to cut down your spare allen wrench socket so that it can fit with the socket wrench attached. The bolt is being blocked by the PS pump and is an absolute nightmare if you have large hands or one set of tools. - I had to have my girlfriend with her much smaller hands loosen and remove this bolt with an allen wrench key (L shaped). so the 95% of the job took ~45 minutes (including washing the cover), while removing that one bolt took ~2hrs!

Once the covers are off, clean them (if you want, of course). Remove the old gasket, put the new one in place, slide the covers back on - while keeping the gasket attached to the cover. They may sell a gasket adhesive for this part, so that its easier to keep the gasket attached to the bottom side of the cover when placing it over the block.



Edit: bolt torque: tight.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by atilla_the_fun

Edit: bolt torque: tight.

---

I'd personally stick with the service recommendation for this one and instead tighten them to the factory spec of 9 N.m. (80 lb. in.).

(Too tight is just as bad, if not worse than, not tight enough as far as how it can squeeze a gasket too much over time and also result in leaks).

The manual did also recommend small amounts of sealant (a bead diameter of 2-3mm) in each of the eight locations where the cam bearing arches meet the flat portions of the cylinder head/gasket mating surface.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ive_points.JPG

Thats what I was wondering I had to use rtv on the arches on the eclipse. Thanks guys for the help cutting down a socket now. lol

since I'm elbows deep in the process...:_wrench: (though done for tonight)

:thanx: All...:thumbup: