Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

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06/11/2011, 05:52 PM
technocoy

Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

First of all, I believe it was KAT who told us about the 303. THANKS!!!!

I went by my local marine shop today and picked some up. Dear god it really helps the rubber a TON. Already feels much more pliable and rejuvenated. So there's that.

Second, The Mother's headlight Powerball restoration kit is fracking awesome.

It took me about 15-20 minutes from opening the box and my lights were REALLY clouded and yellow. They are absolutely smooth and clear minus some deeper road dings. I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.

I'm keeping my new set of lights wrapped up until I absolutely can't restore this pair any longer. They look great!

Here are some picks along with my RR treatment a year later (after washing only with no product ever applied since RR application).

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_2.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_5.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_6.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_1.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_3.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_4.jpg

I recommend ALL 3 of these products very highly. If you have questions, just ask. I also updated KAT's thread on the RR.
06/11/2011, 08:17 PM
VX KAT

:thumbup: Amazin' stuff that 303!....I think I once said I wanted to dunk my entire truck in it! :laugho:

So glad to hear such good reports on the R/R, that's the way it was supposed to go! :thumbup:

Wow, you don't even have any crazing or that weird lightly crackled looking area up top of the horn.....both mine do, but it must be sub-surface, cuz nothin' I tried even touched it. I just picked up a used headlight and it looks like yours...perfect up by the horn area, like new, and so is the rest of it.

Lookin' sharp!
06/11/2011, 08:27 PM
blacksambo

What's 303? Missed that one. Thx
06/11/2011, 08:42 PM
VX KAT

Quote:

Originally Posted by blacksambo

What's 303? Missed that one. Thx

Amazing stuff for rejuvenating rubber and plastic. It's got a SPF of 40, and is used a lot in the marine industry/boating. It's white liquid stuff, totally non-toxic, no smell, easy to use, amazing what it does for rubber & plastic. I use it on painted metal also. Have done almost my entire engine bay in it. Check out the pics in my thread on how I use it to clean and restore the old, sun-baked roof racks I recondition.
Can get it at RV and marine places, and Amazon too.

http://www.303products.com/shop303/i...protectant.cfm

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...&highlight=303

Can buy it at RV and marine places, and Amazon has it too.
06/12/2011, 02:10 AM
technocoy

I'm pretty amazed at how well the powerball bit worked. It's small enough I was able to get in around the horn really well. I've tried this twice with other kits and didn't even get close to this. They look new! There was heavy crazing and yellowing all over except the very bottom edge of the assembly. That drill and buffing sponge approach really made short work of it!

KAT, do you follow the directions and wipe the 303 totally dry, or do you just let it soak into the rub er parts?
06/12/2011, 06:53 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by technocoy

KAT do you just rub er parts?

:laughing:.:laughing:.:rotate:.:laughing:. :laughing:
06/12/2011, 08:45 AM
VX KAT

Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."

On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).

By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.

I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.

Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.

I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.
06/12/2011, 10:29 AM
Scott Larson

So many openings, so little time...:bwgy:
06/12/2011, 10:30 AM
technocoy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:.:laughing:.:rotate:.:laughing:. :laughing:

Damn, that's what I get for posting from my phone!!! Dub you're trouble, man. "paraphrasing" me like a politician!!!!
:bwgy::laughing:
06/12/2011, 10:32 AM
technocoy

Quote:

Originally Posted by VX KAT

Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."

On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).

By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.

I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.

Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.

I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.

Thanks KAT, good info. I'm also sorry to have dragged you into a conversation that is more than likely going to draw out a lot of comedy over the next little but here. HAHAHAHA.

I'm going to "soak all my rubber bits" now. :winkgray:
06/12/2011, 11:40 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by technocoy

Damn, that's what I get for posting from my phone!!! Dub you're trouble, man. "paraphrasing" me like a politician!!!!
:bwgy::laughing:

:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.
06/12/2011, 03:46 PM
Scott Harness

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.

Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p
06/12/2011, 03:49 PM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Harness

Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p

I do what I can widdit...:naughty:
06/12/2011, 03:50 PM
VX KAT

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Harness

Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

I do what I can widdit...:naughty:

:laugho::laugho:..:thumbup::thumbup:
06/12/2011, 05:30 PM
PittVXr

I tried the Mother's headlight kit today and here are my results:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/Lighs_off.jpg

You can see the difference between the treated side and the untreated side.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/lights_on.jpg

Here is shot lights on.

Is it perfect, no. It is a big improvement though.

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