Found a Vx and I need your opinions

First, I can't thank Gussie2000 enough for being the man. We drove to a shop that has a 2000 Kaiser w/ 100k. There's an issue w/ the drivetrain and they're not sure if its the diff. or shaft - citing that someone who worked on this trucks might have a better diagnosis (Gus knows one). It runs but not on 4x mode and they just wanna get rid of it. The asking price is very very reasonable - cash I would spend on a new mountain bike. There are mostly cosmetic issues that bother me so please chime in your fix recommendations. I need all the info I can get. I'm giving it a weekend to decide.

1. Cladding is faded and has plenty "rubs" and "Scuffs" in the front corners and theres a 2" crack centered outside the backdoor. This is what bothers me the most.
2. Engine bay is dirty (maybe a couple of engine brite runs?)
3. Hood insert is so faded.
4. Head lights are"cloudy".
5. Torx screws and fuel covers looks dirty (oxydation?)

Typical Northeast rust on the underneath but I didn't see anything alarming.

On the brighter side: the engine sounded smooth (Gus agrees). I only got to drive it w/in the confines of the shop but the tranny shifts smooth. When I ran a $7 VIN check w/ Vinalert.com, it says 0007 miles in 2000 and nothing more (exactly the same written on the title) . I emailed complaining that the report being "incomplete" but was told that an "empty" report is good - meaning the truck was not salvaged and no reported faults. I'm not sure if Carfax will show more at $35. I was told that the lady owner bought it new paid in cash.

I know there are threads on most of this issues but a quick answer/direction will def save me time. Thanks in Advance, ladies and all.....

Cladding- There's MANY threads on this, and one of my main areas of interests! The most current thread/s are testing some semi/permanent products.
Armordillo TS-1 (re-apply every 90 days)
GatorBack- A permanent application of a nice matte finish. Comes in 3 colors. Spray on. Forum member mike nomy applied it last month and is reporting on it's status and how it's holding up. So far so good.
Hood insert can be treated with same as cladding. I applied Restore/Refinish to my cladding and hood insert. My cladding has NOT worked out as it started to chip off, but it still looks great on my hood insert. I've got 1/2 can at least in case you might want to buy it for cheap.


Headlights cloudy- Don't worry about this condition, it's fixable in less than an hr or two.
Can easily be fixed (even I was capable of doing it :laugho:)
You can buy a Kit that has a couple of the pieces & products, or you can buy the stuff separately. One of the best kits is the 3M Headlight restoration kit, around $10-$13 or so.

I lightly wet sanded them with 2000 grit sand paper.
Then used either Maguiers Scratch-X and/or PlastiX.

There's numerous threads covering it you can get specifics.


Engine Bay dirty- Know there's some threads on this too. I recall many use something with the word Purple in it (Magic purple or something like that), spray it down.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gutless

Thanks in advance fellas..

---

and ladies...;)

.....and ladies, of course!!!

matter of fact, I just went thru 10 pages of the Cladding thread and that Gatorback looks promising. I'm doing lots of searching here but a quick answer from those that know will def save time.

Thanks again, Kat.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gutless

.....and ladies, of course!!!

matter of fact, I just went thru 10 pages of the Cladding thread and that Gatorback looks promising. I'm doing lots of searching here but a quick answer from those that know will def save time.

Thanks again, Kat.....

---

Man, I've got my fingers and toes crossed hoping the GB holds up to the test. I really like the idea that you can "fix" a spot w/o it looking like a patch (or so it says). Since I'm goin' get some abrasions from wheeling, I like this idea.

I know there's a couple of diff threads on cladding, but did you catch the one where RickOKC did some testing with 3 products. He also had to clean some product (Bonda stuff) OFF his VX. You could use some other products until you decide if GB is the final answer

I only got to drive it w/in the confines of the shop

Unless there shop is the size of the Superdome I doubt you got any real sense of the transmision or engine. Without a real test drive I wouldnt offer any more for it than a parts car.

Good thoughts from all...especially about getting a better test drive!

LunaX is a great resource for "fixing" any dents, holes, and problems with the cladding. Gatorback does look promising and I'm waiting just like many others to see how it last long term.

On the fuel door and torx screws I removed mine, cleaned them up with some fine steel wool and them clear coated them.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0029.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0036.JPG

You are so welcome tony.

On my personal opinion we need to get the VX for an true road test,when i first saw it while heading to brooklyn on thursday the guy who's in charge of the VX told me that he drove it for an while before the owner returned the tags back to the DMV.

He mention that @ 60 mph he can listen to an noise that he described coming from the front differential,but not sure of what can be the source of the noise because he honestly admitted he never worked on an VX before althought he told us the VX is completely drivable as is,we didn't take it for an road test because of no tags.

The VX what mostly need is a full detailling job,all electrical works fine,he infamous window binding is present,the engine bay is dirty but nothing that can't be taken care off & no leaks were found.

Tony as i told you,i'll call my mech today to share our findings,if possible we'll try to find tags to test drive it and take it to a car wash near by the VX's location.