Road Bike, Advice

Well....I am looking to by a road bike. I have a Schwinn hardtail mountain bike and this point I would like to have a bike for both off and on. A am a novice to the skinny tire world and since I already have a bike, I would like to keep a somewhat tight budget. At this point I plan to bike to work and bike -with some friends on 20-30 mile runs. I want to start cheap then if needed build my way up?

So here are a couple of questions:

1) I am 6'2 - 200 lbs - From what I read I need a 60cm bike right? Or somewhere near.

2) I have seen single speed, 7, 14, 21.... A couple with 14 gears caught my attention but how much would I really lose not having 21. Despite the fact seven less gears. I am looking performance wise.

3) Now the big one: Yes I hate WalMart but hell they have good prices on some bikes and it may just fit the ticket for now. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-70...d-Bike/4698938 What could you tell me your opinions about this one? It has 14 gears, the shifters are near the handle bar post and not under or around the brakes. I would have to get it shipped so I would be putting a lot of it together myself vs. walmart kid. For $230 it is hard to beat. The GMC ones there have twist shifters on the handle bars for reference. I know I would be getting what I paid for but really how much better would $350 extra get me on a Giant/Trek/ etc? Would this be a good starting point? I dont want to buy and regret. I have a friend that is in the same boat. Then another friend that has bought $1000 road bike and wants us to take that route. Really how bad could it be? I noticed the welds are the same as on $600-$700 Treks.


Long winded it may be but I hope to get some good insight, because I know it is here.

Well I'm by no means an expert, so this is just based on what I learned researching my own bike purchase years ago.

Size-wise, if you see a manufacturer/model you like, you can either: email the manufacturers' support department with your body specs to get their recommendation, or visit a local bike shop that carries the bike you're interested in to actually test-ride the bike (or at least get the recommendation from someone there who knows bikes). I say this because frame sizes from different manufacturers, even though they may both be "referred" to as being the same (small, medium, large), not all will actually "fit" the same.

Gear-wise, I think it depends on the terrain you'll be riding on. If there are a lot of hills, more gears will help you "stay in the seat" without having to pedal standing up to "make it to the top". Or more simply, more gears means less potential "lug". Since it sounds like you already know your area and the type of riding you'll be using the bike for though, that's another recommendation that a local shop should be able to make (because most likely, the guys who work at a bike shop are there because they LOVE bikes, and probably do a LOT of riding of their own in the same area - meaning - they'll have a lot of personal experience on which to base their recommendations).

And my suggestion for what you will appreciate more in the long run for overall riding experience/comfort is that you splurge as best you can to get the lightest bike you can. The less weight you have to move, the easier and more enjoyable your rides will be, whether they be for business or pleasure. There's a VERY good reason why manufacturers over the years have gone from steel to aluminum to titanium to carbon fiber to....(whatever comes next), and if you've ever noticed, is why even small parts and accessories for bikes have their weights provided down to the milligram.

To get a better personal impression of the difference a bikes' weight can make, I'd just suggest going to a local bike shop (doesn't matter which brand) and test riding a few different bikes by the same manufacturer. Bikes are just like cars, and manufacturers make different "levels" from base models and flagships. Try a few different models from basic to WOW, switching back and forth a couple of times, and you'll quickly get an idea of how big a difference even a few pounds can make.

Long-winded too :bgwo: , but I hope it helped.

Triathlete and Mark........this question is made for you.
Peace.
Tom

Thanks trekker. I think the bike in question is in the mid thirties shipping weight if I do recall without looking. What is your opinion on this bike? I am about 10 miles out from ALOT of hills near the Ohio River. So I can see riding the hills in the future.

I am also not sure how I feel buying used or I would buy a used higher end right away.

I know its not what you want to hear but I would never buy a bike from the big chain stores. They sale bikes in 1 size (pretty sure it will be to small for you), offer no support and pretty much sale junk.
That being said it will cost you about 3 times that to get into a basic low end road bike. Fit is the most important aspect when shopping for a bike. If you are not comfortable on the bike you will not ride it. A good bike shop can take some basic measurements to get a ball park size. However depending on the bike you may need to go up or down a size (they all measure their frames differently). As a beginner I would not worry to much about weight (although 30 is pretty high). Gearing can be a big thing if you live near and ride hills.
A few examples...
Felt F95
Fuji 1.0
Scattante R33
There are a ton of road bikes in this price range.
Also if you know what size you ride and what your looking for you can get a lot more bike for your money buying used. My first 3 bikes were used and I put lots of happy miles on them.
Also bike shops have a bit of leway on there prices. They can bargain a bit from the sticker price or throw in some of the little things you will need to sweeten the deal (helmets, bottle cages, bottles...)
If you have any specific questions shoot them out here.

I have seen the mentioned schwinn in person and the size is pretty good. Is it right to try to size yourself for the bike by placing the saddle up to your hip bone or is there a wrong way right way or more so just pure preference? The seat will probably need changing. I have heard good things about sella italia and seem some go for around $30 on ebay. This is the right direction there right? I dont want a gel seat on a road bike?

So I wish I had $700-$800 to throw at this sport (thats a lot of soccer balls and a pair of the best cleats ($400)).

My two cents,
Billy is right about the fit. It's got to fit you correctly. I would go to a local good bike shop and test ride a few bikes for size. Here is a Fit Calculator It may help you. When you know your size, I would scan Craigslist for a decent used bike or look at getting a new bike but last years model. Don't spend a lot of money on your first bike.

Good Luck,
rickshaw
Cervelo Carbon Soloist
Full Campagnolo Record
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...G_0611v2sm.jpg

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Originally Posted by JHarris1385

Thanks trekker. I think the bike in question is in the mid thirties shipping weight if I do recall without looking. What is your opinion on this bike? I am about 10 miles out from ALOT of hills near the Ohio River. So I can see riding the hills in the future.

I am also not sure how I feel buying used or I would buy a used higher end right away.

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I'm sure Billy and rickshaw know more about road bikes than I do, (more of a mountain biker at this point, as you can tell by my ID), and I would agree with their recommendations about the one in your link. I don't think it's that you wouldn't be able to get used to the bike over time, but even though price seems to be your main consideration starting out, I also agree that you would stand a good chance of finding a nicer higher-quality used bike in the same price range.

I wouldn't be too concerned about buying used. Higher-quality bikes are similar to higher-quality or specialty vehicles. The people who purchase them new are going to be more likely to take care of them and maintain them properly to protect the investment. That's not saying that's always the case though, so used "bike" shopping is also similar to used "car" shopping. If you seen an ad for one you're interested in, stop by, look it over, and take it for a test drive/ride. You'll know pretty quickly if it's one to consider, or one to just walk away from to keep searching. You're close enough to Louisville, Indianapolis, and Cincinnati that you should have no trouble whatsoever finding a nice used one on Craigslist, eBay, local newspapers, etc. Probably a lot of them listed this time of the year too.

OK, here's my two cents:

It doesn't sound like you're going to be racing this thing, so you're just looking for a bike to get you from point A to point B so you aren't going to need anything super duper light with an expensive set of components on it. With all of that being said I still tend to agree with what some of the other have said about going with a local shop. The Wal-Mart specials are tempting due to price, but as you've said "you get what you pay for". You will probably get a relatively heavy bike with junky parts that will wear out, break, or just not function right. If you go to a local shop they will be able to set you up correctly and service the bike when it needs it. You may even get a free water bottle out of the deal. :biggringr

I've always been told, and have found this to be true, to get the best frame you can for the money. No matter how high dollar the parts are they will, eventually, wear out but your frame is "forever". I have a nine year old mountain bike that I have ridden the poop out of and have probably replaced or refurbished every part on, but the frame is still going strong. Many places (shops) have end of the year/ beginning of the year sales and some communities have bike swaps that are a great place to find a great gently used bike. Like the others have said, you really need to sit on the bike because each of them fit different people differently.

At 6'2" you're probably in the ball park with your frame size because other things can always be tweaked to get the bike to fit you better (head sets, seat posts, etc.) The fit calculator that Rickshaw posted is great, but again, this seems like more of a leasure thing for you right now. For a super quick fit check that is actually pretty comfortable have someone hold the front wheel of the bike while you get on it. With the seat set high enough for your knee to be slightly bent when the peddle is at it's lowest point, drop down onto the brake hoods like you where going for a ride. If you look down, the front axle should line up with the cross bar of the handle bars (in other words you shouldn't be able to see the axle). This is usually a pretty comfortable riding position for most people.

As for the bike/frame I would go with steel or aluminum. Steel will be cheaper (probably) and have a more forgiving ride, and aluminum will be lighter but probably jar you a bit more. I would definitely go with triple chain rings in the front. This will give you the option of hitting a "granny gear" on some of the tougher hills and allow you to stay seated while you peddle (most efficient). I run a triple chain ring here in Colorado and I tend to use the smallest ring in the beginning of the season, but as I get stronger I notice that I don't need it as much, but it's always there if I hit an Everest sized hill. The multiple geared bikes (21 speeds) usually have overlapping gears so you don't really get 21 gears (more like 17 or 18?).

The biggest thing, no matter if you get a cheap or expensive bike, is to get a comfortable bike. Like Billy said, if you aren't comfortable on it (it makes your back tweak, or makes your hands go numb) then you WILL NOT ride it. So find one that you like and just get out there and ride.

How was that for long winded?:rolleyes:

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Is it right to try to size yourself for the bike by placing the saddle up to your hip bone or is there a wrong way right way or more so just pure preference?

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Definately not the way to fit a bike. It is a bit more involved than that (although its not rocket science). A seat can be moved up and down with the turn of a bolt. It has more to do with your proportions and the top tube length. If you are long legged and short torso'd you would probably fit best on a size or 2 smaller...seat can be raised to accomidate leg length and the shorter top tube will fit your reach without going to extremes with stem lengths (which will affect handling). If you are short legged and long torso the opposite applies.
Hope that makes some sense.

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So I wish I had $700-$800 to throw at this sport (thats a lot of soccer balls and a pair of the best cleats ($400)).

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All my money gets thrown into my bike and running shoes...along with the occasional swimsuit:bwgy:
Just to compare...my new used front race wheel cost a bit north of double that wallmart bike;eeky;

Also dont forget to budget in the little add ons you will need (although some you may have from mt biking)...descent pair bike shorts, cycling gloves, water bottles/cages and most importantly a good helmet.:yeso:

Ok so I didnt fork out the the $700+ for a better bike shop bike. I went ahead and bought the schwinn at question. My friend and I decided to both get it as a starter and progress from there. Luckily we are almost the exact build..6'1-6'2 200lbs or so. Before I go any further. I appreciated the knowledge gained from this thread and will revisit this when more question arise. I like that VX forums can be a one stop shop for sometimes more than just VX info. As soon as I was having troubles deciding I thought..good post for Vx.info.

So the Schwinn Varsity rides nice. I have over 20 miles on it in 2 days, from riding to work and back and to a store and back. I did an overhaul of the whole thing with my allen wrenches and screw divers, re adujusting, tightening and anything possible to make sure it was on right. It came in the box needing the front tire, seat post, shifters and front brake installed. I liked it this way. The only thing is the alignment was off but a simple fix. Only thing I needed was a computer and I was good to go. I hit a decent hill and did not have to stand up, but there more hills to come and quite larger. Shifters shifted no issues, I went through the whole line of 14 a couple of times. The tires at 100psi stayed. Only issue is maybe the handle bar is lower than comfort level?

As far as seats...is firmer better for a road bike? Any pointer to look for?

Congrats!! Sounds like you're getting into it already. I hope I (we) didn't come off as a "bike snob", because I believe that it doesn't really matter what you're on as long as you're out there riding.

As for seats; it's really up to you and your tush as to what's right for you. I think you've posted about Selle Italia seats before, and they are great seats, but everyone's back side is shaped differently so what might be comfortable to you would just kill me.

Some people go crazy for Brooks Saddles ( http://bicycleseatreviews.com/category/brooks-saddles/ )but it's really just a piece of leather stretched over a metal frame...not terribly comfortable to me.

Others go for the modern version: http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesom...0597?i=default
Which is just a piece of carbon fiber shaped like a bike saddle.

If this will mostly be a commuter bike/ grocery getter you may want to look at a lower profile gel seat. Not the sleakest thing around, but very comfortable.

To start off I would probably look at something in the mid-size and mid-padded range. Not too hard, not too soft, but juuuuuust right. :bwgy:

Good call...I was thinking gel, but along the road of getting this someone said gel is for mountain and hard seats are for road. I didnt think it matter as long as your comfortable.

You all for sure did not come off as snobs one bit. I would have loved to bought a more expensive bike but it made more sense to ride this one out and then move up from there. Having the friend on the same one helps since are both going to progress together.

This is finals week in Bio degree so that was all the riding I could fit in thus far. I plan to do MUCH more than that very soon.

Thanks again everyone.