CEL: 342 - Good info

Definitely a new one. Searched, didn't see any threads on it so thought I would throw it in the batch. Definitely worth sharing!!!

P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input

Research shows that it "generally" just means the the sensor itself is bad and need replacing. Most searches show it's usually around $140-$160.

EDIT: That price is for camshaft sensor. Crankshaft sensor is actually more like $40-$70, depending on the vendor.

http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_21...OSS%203.5L.htm

Info reads as: A bad crank position sensor can worsen the way the engine idles, the pistons fire, or the acceleration behavior. If the engine is revved up with a bad or faulty sensor, it may cause misfiring, motor vibration or backfires. Accelerating might be hesitant, and abnormal shaking during engine idle might occur. In the worst case the car may not start.

This explains a LOT of the issues I have been dealing with on my VX for the past year, and I continued to look at other areas to troubleshoot. Just wish this CEL would have flashed itself long ago and not NOW. WOndering if the road salt finally had it's fill with much of my VX. There was a lot this year and my VX sure did get a lot of time out in it. :(

Anyone replaced theirs or have any experience with it? Location-wise, it looks like you can get to it with minimal contortion.

Post update: minimal contortion out the door....

Changed out the CPS last night. I hope none of you ever have to go through it. I have changed one out ONCE on my sister's old Saturn, and that was apiece of cake. However, the VX is a god!@#$!@ disaster. The forward drivetrain is dead spot on where you want to get to. Located right on the lower/mid side of the block, above the frontal driveshaft. To top it all off, you also have to contend with the right torsion bar. One 10mm nut and the pop of a plug. That's all it takes, and it's not fun.

Took me a while, and it pays to be skinny as a rail, but I finally got it out and popped the new one in. Seriously, not a fun task.

You have been warned.

And for the record, she purrs, like you wouldn't believe. I suppose the data be returned from the sensor was relaying some bad information causing the VX to run quite rough, especially at idle. Accel hesitation is non existent now as well. The S/C likes that part most. ;)

Sounds like a massive SUCK job Gary, but you endeavored to persevere & came out the winner!...:_wrench:...:thumbup:

Glad you finally chased down & exorcised the gremlins...:yesgray:

In hindsight, & for future reference, would it have been worth the effort to remove the torsion bar?:confused:

For me, no. I could reach it with my toothpick arms, it was just a matter of being able to get my fingers to the location. My forearm is torn to all hell and sore, but I managed. I would imagine a shop or anyone with a lift and larger arms would definitely need to consider some alternate removal options. Minus the torsion, it surely would be a much easier job. It's still tucked up in there, but I think minus the torsion, it would be far more manageable.

It has me thinking though, most of my VX's symptoms this passed year were all CPS failure descriptive. I never actually found a true vacuum leak and the other number of things I tweaked and changed made no difference. Strange how the 342 only triggered AFTER I redid many 174/171 causing items, but the symptoms remained. I would have imagined that 342 to have triggered long ago. Baffles me. A bad CPS definitely appears to be some sort of "problem man behind the curtain" considering it shares the very same symptoms as a vacuum leak, fuel management issues, and throttle control.

The bad news:

The new CPS did NOT work. All was fine for 20 miles today. Shut her off and had a coffee with some friends and when I started her up to leave, the CEL was back with the 342 again. A little more research this evening revealed some pretty scary news. One apparent issue that some research shows that can cause the trigger seems to be some bad internals, mostly due to "low oil". Well, I change and check my oil very often, and never seem to have any oil burn at all. Considering I drive my VX about 3k-4k miles a year, it still gets an oil change every 6 months at that rate. Never been low. Today though, I checked my oil and it was FULL, but dirtier than it has ever been. I mean DIRTY. Almost sludge. She makes a pretty awful sound at idle too and even lost power in acceleration. I fear some internals are damaged and causing more issues throughout at this point.

Preparing to send her off to the shop to let her get torn down. Only so much I am willing to do on my own. *shakes head*

could you try an oil change and do a flush somehow? then drive it and recheck the oil condition. Maybe a chunk of sludge had dislodged for some reason.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WormGod

Today though, I checked my oil and it was FULL, but dirtier than it has ever been. I mean DIRTY. Almost sludge. She makes a pretty awful sound at idle too and even lost power in acceleration. I fear some internals are damaged and causing more issues throughout at this point.

Preparing to send her off to the shop to let her get torn down. Only so much I am willing to do on my own. *shakes head*

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Really sorry to hear this Gary...:(

I hope it turns out to be something $mall.

Nah, I am done working on her for a bit. I have spent too much time in my garage with it this past fall/winter. Gonna let my trusted shop handle it now. Not really out of patience or anything, I just want a break from staring at the VX engine bay for a while, heh.

Don't worry, I am not fed up. She is staying in the family, just needs some TLC out of my hands for a bit. If anything, this may be a GREAT time to go ahead and get an engine rebuild. If it's enough work for them to do that it gets a tear down, they may as well do the full whammy. We'll see. Drawing no conclusions.

Hell, might even start shopping around for some big brake kits and manual transmissions. Get it all done in one big punch. ;)