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I just got a Pioneer Premier 12" Sub (sealed enclosure) and handles 500 watts RMS and 1000 peak. What amp should I get to power this. What should I look for...an amp that can handle 300RMS, 400, 500? I am new at this so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I forgot to mention thaty this sub has dual voice coils (not sure what it is or if it makes a difference.
You have a 4 ohm DVC sub. With the coils wired in parallel you will need an amp that is stable into 2 ohms.
I'm running a single JL 10W6v2 D4, very similar load to yours. I had an Earthquake PH-D2 for 3 years, great amp, caught fire recently.
I replaced it with a Butler Tubedriver 1250(VERY rare tube monoblock) Best car amp ever used. I ran too warm in the confined location i am using, and I removed it.
3 weeks ago I replaced it with the new JL 1000/1 class D mono amp. Not as sweet as the tube amp of course, but it has a bit more speed, and clamp on the bass. This amp barely gets warm, even at painful volume. It also have a nice built in bass eq.
There is no such thing as too much amp. Even at low volumes the bigger amp will sound better, and distort less.
John C.
Thanks for the help John. I know you get what you pay for but soemtimes you get a good deal. The sub and enclosure cost me 130 bucks already installed in the enclosure and b/c it is a pioneer premier it has a 2 year warranty so I made out like a bandit. As far as the amp is concerned...what do you think of this one:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_g...ca7122d5ff687e
(Sony XM-D1000P5 = approx 210 bucks)
And any tips on where to put the amp in the VX (I know there are plenty of other threads that explain where to put it, but any new ideas or places I SHOULD NOT put it. Thanks
I am curious what exactly is dual voice coil sub and what difference is it compared to a standard sub?
From a wiring perspective, you can think of a DVC sub as actually two subs. Where a SVC sub has one positive and one negative connection, the DVC sub has two of each. This allows for a lot more wiring combinations (especially when using more than one sub) allowing you to lower the resistance, and thereby pulling more power from your amps.
As far as how much power to drive them with, I suggest running them at 75 - 90% of thier max RMS. I'm running two Orion P2D4 12" subs (500 RMS/1000 Peak) at around 400 - 450 RMS (my HCCA 250 is rated at 800 Watts Mono, but probably maxes out at around 1000 - I usually keep the gain turned down a bit though).
For good info about car audio/video installs, let me suggest http://www.soundomain.com.
Deaf:
I haven't heard that amp myself, but the specs seem a good match for your sub.
That amp just begs to be mounted inside the spare tire. Its class D, so it won't generate enough heat to worry about.
Run the amp cutoff at about 80-100 Hz.
What are you doing for a headunit?
John C.
John,
I will prob have the amp installed by sound advice or some other place since I really don't know whaty I am doing...but they can mount it in the spare tire area...how would it be mounted in there? (a side question...I have 265/60 R18...the spare is for the factory speced tires which are smaller...if I have a flat will I still be able to utilize the spare or should I remove it cause I can't use it?)
I justy had the cd changer replaced under warranty but it will be a hassle to get my CD's back...I will keep the head unit stock right now and will change it later prob with an MP3 player compatible one. My plans are to get the sub...then the amp...install them. Then get a PV muffler...then change out the head unit. Doing it one month at a time since I don't have loads of money. Any suggewstions. I was thinking of a kenwood brand head unit though...that or alpine.
Where else would be ideal to install the amp...(attach it to the enclosure?)
Greg
Several people are using my trunk box to hide their amps in - attach to the top inside of the box and you don't loose too much storage area. Under the driver's seat is another "free" area.
...Under the drivers seat. Check out my gallery for some "sound" ideas :naughty: