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MY BLOWER DOSENT WORK AND ALL THE FUSES ARE OK the first thing in the work shop manuel asks is fl-1 fuse normal but dont know were it is can any one help is it in the dash board or under the hood as all the fuses under the hood start with EB-number and all the ones inside are CB- NUMBER SO WERE IS FL-1???
Hey Patrick. I think you need to replace your blower motor resistor. See this thread for a detailed explanation: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...eferrerid=1999
You may want to clean your HVAC switch out as well. My '99 built up dirt around the grease used to minimize friction and I that seemed to be what caused my resistor to overheat. Good luck!
the fuse box under the hood has a fuse for the blower and one for the air con compresser
when the engine is running their is no power on the bus bar that the fuse pluges into . further tracking the wires back their is no power going to the switch side off the main relay for the fan .
i put a fused supply direct to the feed to the blower and the air com in the fuse box bellow the hood and everything works fine blower all speeds and air con again but the light is always on now when the ignition is turned off .
so wot puts power to the fuse relay after the engine is running or when the key is turned to full ignition as this must be faulty
hope this makes sence
further more mine is a jap import and has the auto air conditioner control unit with the sun sensor and temp sensor at the front and inside the control unit
I understand what you are saying, mostly. And sorry but still what I gather is you need to check your resistor. Your symptoms match my previous symptoms and symptoms reported by numerous others. When the resistor gives out it may or may not blow a fuse or two. When the resistor gives out it breaks a connection and the motor ceases to function or may still run at one speed - unless you find a way to bypass the resistor. The resistor in itself acts as a fuse to some extent. When you ask "what puts power to the fuse relay..." I do believe it is the resistor... I may be wrong but it is worth a quick look. The year of VX makes no difference, as they all share the resistor part (to my understanding). Otherwise, I'm not exactly sure what other fuse would be associated with this problem, if you have already tried the fuse box on the side of the dash board and the underhood fuse box. So I don't think I can help you identify or locate the FL-1 fuse. To diagnose my seemingly identical issue I used the thread I linked to for you and it worked out as it has for several others. For some time it was a very common VX issue and over time this part could go out on every VX. I hope I'm not just blowing hot air... hehe pun not intended... I'm just trying to help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick cooper
I ran across this post while troubleshooting my HVAC Auto control unit. It had gone completely out. No fan, no position lights, no air duct control. Dead as a door nail except for backlighting. Thought I would post what I found, in case someone else runs across this post.
The shop manual identifies a relay, labeled X-6 and a fuse, labeled FL-1 that should be checked if the unit is not working. There is no relayed labeled X-6 nor any fuse labeled FL-1 in the car. That must be a technical writing nuance that I don't understand. However, there is a heater relay in the engine compartment fuse box labeled EB-25. I believe FL-1 really refers to "fusible link" 1 that runs between the Heater Relay and 10 amp fuse E-5 in the same box. The fusible link runs underneath the fuse box from the EB-25 to E-5. Fusible links are insulated wires that are intended to burn in two, like a fuse, before damage occurs to other components. I am unclear why these are used instead of fuses themselves. Given how tight the wiring is on the back of the fuse box, it would be quite a chore to have to change the fusible link. But I digress. I found that my heater relay had fried. There was melted plastic on the relay and the fuse box. Also smoke residue on the cover of the fuse box. Ordered a new one from Jack Miller Isuzu here in Kansas City for about $35. It solved the problem. For those doing troubleshooting, the heater relay is the same as relay EB-27, just to the right. If you think your EB-25 Heater Relay has gone bad, temporarily swap out EB-27 to test it.
Hope this helps. I'm slower than most, so this took some schematic reading and pondering before I could find the simple relay and fusible link that are mis-labeled in the shop manual.
Jason