Anyone know how to remove scratches from the plastic headlight lens? The scratches appear to be from normal road driving. Thanks!
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Anyone know how to remove scratches from the plastic headlight lens? The scratches appear to be from normal road driving. Thanks!
Mine was somewhat worse than normal road scratching, and nearly buffed out completely with the polish. I bet if I had one more go at it they'd have nary a mark on 'em. I use Blue Magic Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner. It's also a light scratch remover. Just make sure it's real clean first, and then don't be afraid to put some elbow grease into it.
After you get them to your liking, go to Autozone and order a pair of GTS clear headlight covers. I like mine. You can hardly tell they're there and they give additional protection against rocks, etc.. Not sure if they block U.V. rays. Also available in blackout and simulated carbon fiber for front and rear. Apprx. $50/pr and take about 3 days to arrive.
Tried the Blue Magic Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner. Worked great. Major elbow grease required....but it did the trick. Many thanks!:)
$50 for headlight covers? The factory covers are $19 - what are we saving????? I like the dark color of the covers, but they cover the "horns" of the factory lights - I think for $19 I can replace them several times!!!
First, last and always... Extra Protection! ;)Quote:
Originally posted by raquethomas
$50 for headlight covers? The factory covers are $19 - what are we saving????? I like the dark color of the covers, but they cover the "horns" of the factory lights - I think for $19 I can replace them several times!!!
Are they $19 each or /pair?
Can you actually get them ? (in hand, or just listed separate in the parts book?). I'm asking because, most dealers replace the whole assembly to fix lens complaints.
We're "saving" the factory lenses from various road grit, stones,mud,salt, ;puke2; ,etc.. and weatherstrips from falling off,
not to mention that you're going to have a lot of fun :confused:
disassembling: "everything",
resealing : the new factory lens to the headlight housing assembly
reassembling :
checking : adjustment/ aim
lens sealing
(probably another reason the dealer replaces the assembly) .
The "clear" covers that I was referring to, also cover the horns. They are molded to the shape of the horns so well that it's hard to tell they're even on. Plus, you don't sacrifice lighting quality.
As you mentioned, you have choices in color:
Clear - front only
Smoke - f + r
Sim.
Carbon
Fiber - f + r .
'nuff said?
Novus plastic polish #2. I did plexi fabrication for a few years, and this is what we used for little skuffs. Don't even think of using any type of power buffer, because it will overheat the surface and ruin it.
John C.
Sarge - I think you must be right about the resealing thing - I asked my dealer to replace the covers due to inside pealing and crazing that I've seen many posts here about, and they are replacing both assemblies ($350 each!) under warranty. The covers are listed in the parts guide, but maybe not avail? I've never seen a VX with the covers in person - but the pictures I've seen appear that the covers don't fit the horns tightly. I think that is one of the better features of the front of the car. Guess I'll have to wait until I get to a meet and see one in person.
I have not seen the aftermarket covers in person either, are they molded up and over close to the horn?
Or do they angle up to the peak of the horn from the edge of the lens.. as if you put plastic kitchen wrap over the lens?
They're more angled, but what's a little hump between friends.;)
It's a very mildly abrassive deep cleaning compund for weathered and scratched glass and chrome surfaces. Heck I've used it to fix scratched sun glasses and watch crystals. Good stuff :naughty:
Hotsauce,
Not questioning your correctness since you used to work with the stuff a lot, but why would a buffer be any worse than just running the lights? My headlights are really hot after burning just a couple of minutes, so if running those all the time is okay, then... I don't get it. <shrug>
A power buffer, if you are not very careful will produce enought heat to melt or deform the plastic. This is one job that is better done by hand.
Howard
Well I know it's about heat, but I didn't realize a power buffer would heat it up that much unless you were almost trying to. I never have and never will use a power buffer anyway, but if I did and it got really hot I'd stop for a bit. Heck, as hot as my headlights get just from being on a while, I'm just surprised a buffer could be any more of a threat. But I defer to the experience of those who have done it or have seen it happen.
If you use a cheap sub $60 buffer with a terry cloth bonnet you will burn the finish for sure.
With a high quality (Porter-Cable) random orbit buffer and a good quality sponge pad, you'd have to really mean to burn the paint to make it happen. Such a buffer will cost you $150 or so. If you don't wish to sink that kind of money into a quality tool... then elbow grease is the only way to go. No shortcuts.