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I need to replace the front rotors calipers and pads so I figured I should do the brake lines as well.
I ordered a set of stainless lines but they look REALLY SHORT to me.
Also there are 5 of them, one looks like it's a central line of some sort.
did I get the wrong parts or am I just paranoid?
I can't tell you what the length should be, but the fifth line is the center line that goes between the frame & the junction on the rear axle to supply the rear calipers.:_wrench:
Dub is, of course, correct. The fifth line goes to the junction at the rear pumpkin to supply the rear calipers. The shorter two of the four remaining lines should be for the rear calipers (since there is no travel to deal with) and the longer two of the four should be for the front. The front lines should also have an aluminum "ring" in the middle of them because there is a place for that to mount at the wheel spindle to keep the line out of the wheel/tire.
Quick piece of advice: if you are replacing the lines please be sure to plug up the hard lines when you take the old flex lines off. When I replaced my lines with stainless I let the brake system run dry, and have had a bear of a time getting it properly bled. If it does run dry, the engine has to be running while you do the bleed. I did all of this and I still think that I have some air in the lines because my brake pedel will hit the floor if I press on it hard enough.
AHHH ok... I completely forgot that with a solid rear Axel the rear lines wouldn't have to be very long... now it makes complete sense.
I have a friend who specializes in brakes that's going to help me out with the install. I'm planning on draining the whole system and replacing it with synthetic brake fluid and he's got a power bleeder (hooks up to an air compressor for draining/refilling/bleeding)
thanks everyone :)
Just a word to the wise (or in my case not so wise). After trying to bleed the brakes for a day and a half by myself I finally took it to a mechanic and he found out, from Isuzu, that the engine must be running during the bleed. From what he tells me, the ABS module runs dry, and with out the engine running it doesn't push fluid into the module so you will never get all of the air out (my case). With the engine running, it some how takes the ABS module into account and forces fluid through it, thus getting all of the air out.
That's somewhat of a scary prospect... the ABS shouldn't have that much control over your brakes...
haha... my ABS has no control...:p
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...thumbs/ABS.JPG
OK... so I took a few minutes to browse the brake section of the factory service manual...
here is what I learned:
1. the reason the engine has to be running is because of POWER ASSISTED BRAKES not because of ABS, this means your engine helps provide braking assistance, the brakes will work without assistance from the engine but you cannot create a complete drain without the system being active.
2. the service manual takes every opportunity possible to tell you that it's important to completely flush the brake fluid if you are to replace any part of the hydraulic system... :rolleyes:
3. If you are bleeding the system there is a specific order in which you must bleed the brakes to ensure that the system is properly free of air. (1. Master Cylinder 2. Right Rear 3. Left Rear 4. Right Front 5. Left Front)
4. You may need to repeat the bleeding process as many as 10 time for front calipers and 15 times for rear calipers to achieve a complete bleed :eek:
... this is why I always pickup a FSM whenever I get a new vehicle :smilewink