My diff drop.

Seen here:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_4590.JPG

Finally got them fabbed up and painted with caliper paint. Between my wreck and the metal worker having a heart attack it took a few weeks to get here. Trying to schedule an install this weekend. That is if I can figure out how to drop the cross member. Ascinder if you read this what again did you do to drop your cross member (in detail if you dont mind).

Last night during the painting session, I relocated my rear view mirror up a couple inches on my windshield. Huge benefits. Only set me back about ten minutes and $3. I have always hated how the stock location protruded in the cabin and how much forward viewing it blocked.

Nice! I finally lowered my crossmember - I actually only lowered one side to maintain ground clearance. I used a piece of 2"x3" tube (3/16" thick) and cut one face off the tube to form a "C". I welded that to the stock crossmember after I ground down the flange to line the two up. I used one bolt on the driver side to locate the crossmember in the stock location and used a bottle jack to located the crossmember on the passenger side so that I could drill the holes to match the crossmember mount. I was in a hurry to do it before Moab last month so no pics! Sorry.

I made up four metal rectangles out of 3/16" or 1/4" plate(don't remember which, but the same size or larger than the stock crossmember). I drilled them out with four holes each on a 2" offset I think, might be 2 1/2" though. Anyways, enough to clear with the new angle that the transfercase shaft is at now. You only need to just clear the shaft, I went bigger than necessary on mine(and lost clearance because of it) since I wanted to be on the safe side. I think I had to get new longer hardware(get grade 8) from the hardware store. I also had to get some spacer material to go between the holes in the bottom of the plates and act as a bridge so they wouldn't just collapse. I think I got the spacer material when I got the hardware. I think they are just really large rollpins which allow the bolts to pass through internally, but keep the plates at the proper distance.If I remember right, I had to install some of the bolts facing the opposite way due to clearance and fitment issues. You might be alright though, we'll see. This portion of my lift actually went very smoothly and was accomplished in less than an afternoon, including going across town to get the bolts, self-locking nuts and lockwashers and powdercoating the parts. Don't forget to paint or powdercoat whatever you use or it'll will be a rusty mess before long. Here's what the roll pins look like:

http://members.aol.com/pullingtracto...s/rollpins.gif

You need the "weak" kind so you can fit the bolt through. These really are not being used for their intended purpose (which is to carry shear loads) but it works for our purposes. You may also use a section of heavy wall pipe and cut it to length, which is what I might have actually done, I don't remember. The plates appear to be 3" by 2 1/2" each, some of which may need the attention of a grinder.

Nice job J.
I am still looking for an extra set of brackets. I have a whole laundry list of things to do. Scheduling and parts gathering never seems to be easy. I have the passenger side bracket just need the driverside.

:thumbup:...Is look good...:thumbup:

.............:_wrench:.................