Hey, got a few questions

Right now I drive a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500, with a 360 v8

well, couple years ago I saw one of these vehicross' drive by and loved them ever since, even had a little hot wheels vehicross.

Anyway, I don't want to drive my 11 mpg truck much longer, with gas prices and i'd like to start college and all.

SO,
what are the mpg of these things?
what are common problems?
are parts available for these SUV's?
how well does the 4x4 hold up?

Sorry I don't want to search for all this, if I could just get some straight up answers in one shot I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

gas mileage isnt much better.. most get between 12-16 in the city and 16-20 on the highway

common problems include oil consumption, sticking windows, and torn CVs on some lifted VXs, none are that big a deal if you give some TLC to your truck

the drivetrain is shared with isuzu troopers and axioms, i think rodeos too new shipment of body parts just came across but still backorder on some parts from japan, 3-6 week delivery time

the 4x4 is pretty stout, havent heard of many people having it go out on them, there are a good number of VXs running 33's and 3-4 running 36s with some extensive modification I think i heard of one front differential being destroyed, not sure of the conditions, but i believe the truck had 33s on it and was regularly wheeled VERY hard

well etlsport, 12-16 is a lot better than 10-12. lol.

oil consumption? Dodge's have a problem with a plenum leaking, is it something similiar?

sticking windows? ok, explain that a little.

torn CV? What's a CV?

And those parts are interchangeable i'm assuming.

I was curious about those Headlights. Any kind of aftermarket replacement?

I wouldn't drive hard on one, just want all four wheel spinning, and my 2wd is obviously incapable of it.

aluminum blocks are notorious for burning oil in general, there seems to be a problem related to oil pressure (PCV valve) and the piston rings, usually never a trace of burning oil, just gone, which is why some dont realize it and then KABOOM there goes the engine, just check your oil every fillup or ever 2 fillups and youll be fine

sticking windows... the window system was not designed well, lower arm isnt really strong enough to hold the window even, so it will tilt if the tracks are dirty or not properly lubricated and the window will get stuck, after too much of it getting stuck eventually the tabs break and you either have to mcgyver a solution or order a new window

CV is a "constant velocity" joint which is a joint on the front axle that allows the wheels to continue to spin even with the wheel at an angle since we have independent front suspension, they are protected by a CV boot and the harsh angle a lift causes will sometimes tear these boots (also them drying out or an unforunately placed rock or stick) and once the boots tear, the lubrication leaks out, dirt and rocks get in and the cv joint itself will wear out and eventually go bad and need to be replaced (which i think usually just means new axle) but if you keep an eye out for tears in the boot, youll have no problems

That CV thing sounds pretty serious. What do you do if you find a cracked boot? Are they replacable or once a crack, can't look back kind of thing? Never been around an aluminum block, well not mine anyway, but the plenum situtation is the same concept, the plenum is two parts while the intake is aluminum the bottom portion is steel or cast iron, and the heat affects the two differently so the gaskets go out fairly consistently. There is a kit that corrects that problem though, so it's really not a big thing anymore.

The window sounds like an engineering failure, but all companies have them. Has anyone adapted a stronger arm to the window?

I had a 1975 Nova that I had to use one of the female ends of an electrical connecter to hold in a part of the door handle, because I replaced them with new chrome pieces and the prior clips to hold the door opening arm to the handle had rusted through and broken.

yea sbc (street boutique customs) has developed a metal channel that takes the place of the plastic tabs that break, hasnt been around long but seems to be helping many peoples window problems

the cv boots are replaceable, the replacement of them is well documented here

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...t=cv+boot+cost

the joint itself must be rebuilt if allowed to turn without lubrication and filled with debris for too long

its not a certainty that it will happen either, there are members running 33s for years without any CV problems.. then there are others who have had CV boots tear after only a month or two of lifting but looking at that link you can fix it for 36 bucks and a weekend

welcome to the gang! The CV issue pertains to when you add lift; you put the CV joints at an awkward angle and they "can" tear and lose the grease as well as let dirt in and then they fail. Mine isn't lifted and at 70,000 miles they look great!

This is mainly why I never lifted mine; plus, when you lift you lose the sports-car like handling on the road.
The window issue is well documented here. I did a fix from this site and my driver side has worked flawless for the last 7 years while the passenger side is about 85% good. (you have to "jog" it slightly to keep it squared up with the track...too lazy to get it perfect..lol)

***Please check my gallery for my 1996 2wd Dodge Ram "StarCraft conversion" pickup! I got the 318 and it gives me 15mpg in winter (280lbs sand in back!) and 17-17.5mpg in the summer (-280lbs of sand..lol). I have a locker installed in the rear-end too and it goes great with studs & sand. Blasted through 2 feet of snow this past Saturday in Erie, PA!!!!!!

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...icture_040.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../My_VX_005.jpg

Welcome to the addiction.

By far, the best thing about being a VehiCross owner is being a part of this group. Owners run the full range of mechanical competance so the 'how to' threads tend to be very well written so that the shade tree mechanics can do the job.

There are instructions here on how to do the CV boot replacement with pictures, drain/fill the tranny fluid, fix your windows, install an electric fan, there was even one on a complete engine rebuild (not sure if it's completed yet). A pdf of the shop manual can even be downloaded here.

A few of us may even be close enough that it could be possible to lend a hand.

It'd be worth your time to search through the threads as you shop for your VX. There are currently some pretty nice one's advertised here for sale.

Other makes and models have issues as well, so don't take these as reasons not get one of these trucks if you really want one. Like just about everything, they require preventative maintenance and love love love

love love love

love love love

all you need is love

ba ba da da da dum :p

My 2 cents:

Everything Etl said is true. But like he said, if you give your VX a little regular TLC, most of the issues he speaks of can be avoided. My windows used to stick, but I lube them up with silicone spray at least once a month and they are still rolling strong and fast. I do not have a lift (yet), and my CVs are fine, and I live in an extremely dry climate. My VX does burn oil, but I dilligently watch it, and refill as necissary.

I think the most important thing you can do, if you decide to buy a VX, is be patient, and look nationwide for the best one you can find (low mileage, no previous mods, etc).

Bart

Yeah, well like I said i've noticed them back in 2001 when I was about 13 (20 now) and thought it was the coolest lookin thing I ever saw. I did in fact search for one, when I was in the market for a vehicle to drive so I could park my Nova, but the one's around Orlando (use to live in Kissimmee, FL) were far and few, and the avg price was about 14k.

My truck was 3,000. lol.

But it's cool I cam across this forum, been considering a moderate 4x4 vehicle for awhile.

It's not necessary for me to lift anything, that's all for show where I'd be using it.

So when I do trade in my truck, I'd like to try and knock off 3-4k the price, so hopefully, crossing fingers, in a year or so I can find one for about 6k and with the trade, pay 2k and be done with it.

P.S.> When you say nationwide, did some of yall get them over 200 miles away? I searched autotrader, and noticed that the closest one here is that one in Kentucky for 7k. it's a little over 120-180 miles from where I'm at (still new to the Huntington-Ashland area)

I will NOT get into car payments.

Plus, I'm young, so I don't need a really low mileage vehicle, if it's over 80k that's fine by me. I'm use to taking care of old things. Also, I'm sort of fickle while I'm in this stage of my life, with the future of automobiles in flux and my dream car being a 1970 Hemi Cuda or a 72 Chevrolet Chevelle, it's all up in the air as to what will happen in the near future.

Thanks for the replies, I looked up some info on the VX as yall abbreviate it, and looks like only about 4100 found homes here in the states.

In comparison my 1996 Dodge found about 400,000 homes, lol.

Well, I tried Editing my former post, didn't work. It appears the closest one to me is the one located in Kentucky, which I noticed was also posted and made note of on this forum.

If the guy was willing I'd trade him my Ram for it!!

Haha, but in all seriousness, did most of yall get your VX (as yall like to abbreviate it) over 200 miles from where you live?

Quite a few of us went 200 miles plus to get our VX (me included). I bought mine sight unseen from MO & I live in VA. It cost about $700 to have it trucked to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by etlsport

yea sbc (street boutique customs) has developed a metal channel that takes the place of the plastic tabs that break, hasnt been around long but seems to be helping many peoples window problems

the cv boots are replaceable, the replacement of them is well documented here

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...t=cv+boot+cost

the joint itself must be rebuilt if allowed to turn without lubrication and filled with debris for too long

its not a certainty that it will happen either, there are members running 33s for years without any CV problems.. then there are others who have had CV boots tear after only a month or two of lifting but looking at that link you can fix it for 36 bucks and a weekend

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Oh that is a great writeup. But I must say I replaced all four ball joints on my 2wd ... That took me, a complete noob, about 3 weeks. That CV job looks like a piece of cake. Well most odd jobs look easy to me after that ball joint debacle. If that's one of the most COMMON problems, then I need to pick my jaw up off the floor.

I love my dodge, don't get me wrong, but my truck was a cement hauler, and abused like so. It runs fine, A/C and all that works no problem, but a whole bunch of little things have happened to it.

But I figure I'll keep toying with my truck for a year or so, maybe get a loan for school and stash some and use that for future vehicross cash.

Who knows, having a strong 2wd Ram and a sweet 4x4 VX could be a deadly combo, and I didn't catch the name, but noticed someone has that setup and seems to enjoy it.

I bought mine in Chicago and I live in Colorado. When I found the one I wanted I asked a couple of the members on the site to go check it out for me (which they did...I LOVE this community). After they gave it the OK, I flew out to Chicago and drove it back home. Put some miles on it, but the drive cross country was a blast, and I got to know the vehicle pretty well.