hey i have a question for you car audio guys out there...can i run two caps in a row? do i just wire posbatt to poscap to poscap to amp and same with the neg?
i think it wouldnt cause any trouble but i wanted to make sure....thanks guys
pbkid
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hey i have a question for you car audio guys out there...can i run two caps in a row? do i just wire posbatt to poscap to poscap to amp and same with the neg?
i think it wouldnt cause any trouble but i wanted to make sure....thanks guys
pbkid
pdkid, you wanna run them in parallel, if you run them in series you are going to cut down on your total capacitance, if you run them in parallel you add their capacitances together, so a distribution block for power is the way to go then ground them to the same spot to avoid ground loops
How many amps are you running? I previously ran one for each amp (each had a sub) on a line coming from the distribution block.
i've never run caps - but etlsport has it right. parallel all the way - you'll be fine.
-biju.
im running approx. 2,200 watts so im thinking im gonna need 2 caps, along with my optima red top ill be purchasing.
thanks for the info though, i wasnt sure what the best way to set them up would have been.
my understanding is caps are worthless - no matter how many farads you have. best thing is a higher output alternator, with upgraded chassis ground(s) (the big 3) - beats out caps all day long. just something to think about...
2,200 flux capaciting watts, eh? that's some mighty power, jack. what's eating up that power? 15 -18's? :eek: :eek: :eek:
-biju.
Biju is 1000% right.
Caps are a band-aid for those that dont know better/avoid the actual issue.
Good luck with this issue.
We regularly build sound competition vehicles @ our shop (mine hits 141dB at the moment) and have NEVER used a cap nor seen many at any competitions. If you can only run one battery, an Optima Deep Cycle Battery (Yellow or Blue Top) would be the best as it can take more abuse, higher current draws and total discharges than a Red Top. And then a higher output alternator to keep it full.
Also, many 2200 watt amp specs are only a transient measurement and not RMS - check the fuses and I'll be you find no more than 2 30 or 40 amp fuses - that is only good for 720 watts RMS.
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp
A second battery would be the next thing to do after the alternator - the 1000W and 1400W RMS amps we use require a second battery or we don't install them. Low voltage/current is the leading cause of amp failure.
I use a commercial Yellow Top (1125 Cranking Amps) for starting and when driving (it turns off when in Accessory position so I can always start the vehicle) and a regular Yellow Top (870 Cranking Amps) for running the stereo with the engine off and adding to the front battery when the engine is running. And all power handling / ground wire under the hood and to the amps has been upgraded to 1/0 cable. The ML came with a 150 Amp Alternator but more would be better....
interesting point tone. im actually talking about 2200 watts RMS...so im gonna need some help from an optima and probably some other stuff. im gonna PM you to see what you think....oh and to answer your question im probably going to be running the 300A fuse that kicker sent to me along with their 1/0 gauge kit.
biju- 2 12's, 1 8inch, 2 6x9's, 2 polk db components, 2 polk db coaxials all being ran by an eclipse avn5435
ive got a 1400.1 to run the 12's
ive got a 250.2 to run the 8
300.4 for the 6x9's
350.4 for the polks
Ahhh the good 'ol days. Back in the day I ran:
2- Kicker L7 12in subs
4- Kicker RS6 Resolutions sets
Subs were powered by 2 Kicker XS100 (cheater) amps, highs were powered by a Kicker ZX460, controlled by the top of the line (at the time) Eclipse DVD/CD player (copper chasis), and 7in screen. I used a Phoenix Gold 15-farad capacitor, it actually looked more like an amp and I also owned a yellow top Optima battery. I managed to score 154.7db at the Spring Break event in South Padre Island.
Now where did I leave that hearing aid... ;)