Moab - Lots to do

Hello All,

I'm about to get into the big list of stuff to do before Moab, and I may need some help on some of this stuff, so any opinions would be much appreciated.

Here's the list:
-Polish hazed headlights - I think I found the thread on this one so I'm o.k.

-Repack front bearings - Is this tough for a novice to do in his garage? The VX has 56,000 miles on it, and as far as I know the bearings have never been repacked (I bought it with 35,000 miles on it). Should I just call Merlin and get new bearings instead?

-Stainless Brake Lines - I'll contact Independent 4x4. I know they got the goods.

-Greaseable Torsion Bar Bushings - found Moncha's thread on this one, so I'll give Energy Suspension a call.

-Change Front and Rear Diff. to Syth. - I've read a couple of threads on this one, and changing it doesn't sound that difficult, the question is: What the heck to I need to use? Mobile 1, Royal Purple, additives? I'm sure everyone has their own opinion on this one.

-Change Transfer Case to Synth. - Again, the change over doesn't seem too bad, but what the heck goes in here? Mobile 1, Royal Purple, addititves?

-Change Fuel Filter - Doesn't seem too tough. Is there a specific part number I need to get? Are the reusable ones good (I've seen one that is a glass cylinder and I'm thinking that might be a little dangerous banging around under the VX in Moab)?

-Change Transmission Fluid to Synth. and Change/Clean Filter- How hard is this? What synth fluid should I use, or IS there a synth fluid?

-Add Tranny Filter - Tone, you have these for sale don't you? Is it a complicated install?

-Clean EGR/PCV - I think I have a good line on the thread for this one. I had it done at the dealership once, and it sounded like they also cleaned out the top of the engine (manifold)? Could that be right?

Phew, I guess I had better get to work on all of this. Again, any opinions/help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT - I've been reading the posts (thanks for the advice), but now I wonder what tools I might need to get to pull all of this off. I've read about the hand pump for filling the diffs, tranny, and xfer case, and the snap ring tool for the bearings, but are there any other "special" tools that I might need to buy?

Thanks fam.

Holy crud, Mark....from greenie last year to hardcore this year.......sweetness!

An inspiration for us all. :)

Bim

Mark,

Here's a link to the front bearing re-pack article over at Planet Isuzoo.

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

Keep in mind, you don't need the modified tool, the adjustment collar can be removed/ adjusted(tightened) with careful use of a hammer & pin punch.

The diffs are E-Z, just go for a drive to get the fluids warmed up (maybe 5-10 mi.) drain the fluids (front diff. is the lowest bolt holding the 3rd member to the axle housing) & re-fill with synth. of choice in the proper flavor (viscosity) to the bottom of the fill hole. You will need 1 bottle of LSD additive in the rear diff.
Also, due to the small size of the front drain hole, you may need to open it up by poking a coat hanger into the hole to remove accumulated gorp to get it to drain.

Mark,

Sounds like your baby's getting some good pamperin' ... love to hear that!

You're right, too... everyone does have their opinion on synth fluids. I use RP, but feel that either way you're going to be fine (mobile .vs rp .vs amsoil, etc).

Along with your EGR valve cleaning ~ ask that they also clean the throttle body... mine was full of build up, etc., and couldn't hurt to have yours cleaned.

Best of luck!

-biju.

advice when doing your diffs.. use a pump of some kind... it took me forever to gravity feed mine (20 min per bottle!!).. and a siphon wasnt strong enough to pull the oil through since its so thick, or if you need to gravity feed, get the largest hose you possibly can (think garden hose) i didnt realize that until i had no more fluid in my diffs.. also small things that are generally good to remember.. make sure you put the copper washer to seal your plugs up nice and tight back on... and always take the fill plug out first because you dont want to take off your drain plug to find out the fill plug is stuck/broken/whatever could happen to it

dunno if you planned to clean your pcv.. but dont bother, just get a new one.. theyre less than 5 bucks, i replace mine anytime i replace my oil filter

Yeah, I used a little hand pump on my transfer case and tranny. I got it from Pep Boys for like $10. Its NOT a fun job, especially by yourself. Try to have a buddy help you out. There is no fill port under the hood. You are basically going to have to fill the trans/transfer case via the fill plug under the VX. To change the transmission filter, you will need to drop a cross member down there while supporting the trans, and then take off the pan, remove the filter/gasket, clean the magnet, replace filter and gasket, close up and fill. The filling process is not fun. If you buy a OEM tranny filter, flatten the gasket out inbetween two heavy books for a day or two. This will ease replacement. Hopefully Tone will chime in about his inline filters...cause I don't know nuthin about those.

As for the front bearings, I just had mine repacked. I bought new seals from the local Isuzu dealer here in Reno. It was about $32 for the pair iirc. I just gave the seals to the tire shop and had them do my brakes and bearings at the same time. I would say have a qualified shop repack your bearings. I don't think it would cost too much. It was just way to involved for me to attempt myself, plus I don't have the tools. But that's just me.

I want to get my diffs drained and refilled before Moab as well.

Bart

Quote:

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Originally Posted by etlsport

advice when doing your diffs.. use a pump of some kind... it took me forever to gravity feed mine (20 min per bottle!!).. and a siphon wasnt strong enough to pull the oil through since its so thick, or if you need to gravity feed, get the largest hose you possibly can (think garden hose) i didnt realize that until i had no more fluid in my diffs.. also small things that are generally good to remember.. make sure you put the copper washer to seal your plugs up nice and tight back on... and always take the fill plug out first because you dont want to take off your drain plug to find out the fill plug is stuck/broken/whatever could happen to it

dunno if you planned to clean your pcv.. but dont bother, just get a new one.. theyre less than 5 bucks, i replace mine anytime i replace my oil filter

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etlsport - that is strange it took you so long to fill your diffs by bottle. I can drain a diff and fill it by bottle in 20 minutes! Were you squeezing the bottle or just letting it flow? I just cut half of the tip off and stick the bottle into the fill hole and squeeze, then reuse that tip on the next bottle or two.


Have fun, Mark!

hm maybe i missed something, i wasnt able to get up to the fill plug with the bottle, i used a hose attached to the bottle to gravity feed it in.. problem was the hose i used was way too small for that thick grade oil

I think synthetic flows a whole lot better so should be easier... but maybe I am the one missing something - cuz I have only had a problem with the front diff leaking so maybe the issue is in the back. I wish I could do a bunch of work to my VX before MOAB but I will be hard pressed to just get the front end rebuilt. I desperately need shocks, probably a tune up.. eh, I would just get depressed if I listed everything I need done.