brakes revisited - how to? / pointers?

hello, all. first off, apologies if i missed this on any other thread. i have been searching, but no luck.

although the topic of brakes has come up recently, the topics seem to be geared towards types and/or brands.

my question pertains more towards the "how to". i plan on servicing the brakes in the near future. my dad and i have worked on our previous cars with success. however, as the vx is my 'prized' vehicle, dad thought it would be best to ask before starting on her.

the dealer has done most maintainence work to the vx. as you know, brake jobs may be pricey and $$ is tight. hence, my urge to 'bond' with the vx, on this project.

the vx has not had any previous brake work done. there is still life on the pads and there is no screeching/grinding/pulsating etc. dad has the basic shade tree mechanic's tools.

1) should i expect any surprises with this project? (i.e. need for special tools, dealer-only access to parts etc.)

2) would like to avoid weakening the rotors - is it really necessary to have them turned. (the rotors appear to be in good condition with no 'real' grooves)

3) re: bleeding - is it safe to do? any adverse effect to the ABS system or lines? any inexpensive pumps required or can one do it manually?

as usual, i'm throwing out the questions to the forum, which i trust and whose input i value. any info/advise would be appreciated.

thanks, again, to all.


-jose

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1) should i expect any surprises with this project? (i.e. need for special tools, dealer-only access to parts etc.)

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Nothing I can think of - the braking system is big and fairly simple. Make sure you have some good high-temp grease to lube everything up real well when you put it back together.

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2) would like to avoid weakening the rotors - is it really necessary to have them turned. (the rotors appear to be in good condition with no 'real' grooves)

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Replacing the pads without turning the rotors is known as "pad slapping". I've done it a bunch of times on older vehicles, but the VX deserves better than that. Since you can usually only "turn" a rotor once before having to replace it anyways, you'd save a few bucks and some trouble by not turning them, but you'd shorten the life of your new pads as well as sacrifice some stopping power. Getting the rotors turned is usually pretty cheap - $10-15 each - but takes a little more work to remove them, drop them off, have them turned, and reinstall them. The choice is yours...

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3) re: bleeding - is it safe to do? any adverse effect to the ABS system or lines? any inexpensive pumps required or can one do it manually?

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Absolutely, it's safe, and highly recommended. It can be done manually "the old fashioned way" with one person underneath holding the bucket and another person pumping the pedal, OR you could invest in some speed bleeders from Independent4x. These are basically one way valves that make it possible to bleed brakes by yourself, without assistance. Pretty slick idea, but I personally didn't have much success with them (though I know several other members swear by them).

If it's been more than a couple of years, pull all that brake fluid out of there. Use a baster, or an extractor, ( a $20 syringe) and empty the res./refill and then bleed the system. Begin at the wheel farthest from the ABS module, and work your way around to the closest. Keep an eye on the res- don't let it run dry.

gentlemen, thank you.

sounds as though it shouldn't be too difficult to handle. i used to enjoy tinkering on my other cars but have, yet, to really do anything myself to the vx. i am sooooo tempted to start, though. guess, i'm afraid to hurt her. the dealership (mancari's) and the vx's tech (steve) have been great. hence, i've taken it there.

nothing beats mechanical quality time with your ride, though. who knows, this may be the beginning of it.

i was concerned about the bleeding, as my wife's Xterra calls for a specific procedure/sequence (if i recall correctly), in order to avoid damaging the ABS system. great to hear that the vx can handle the 'old fashioned way, as kpaske said. that's exactly what we've done when working on brakes.

gracias, again!

-jose

Just look this over first so you're sure of the bleeding procedure.

Mark

http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/image/image3/bleeda.png
http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/image/image3/bleedb.png
http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/image/image3/bleedc.png
http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/image/image3/bleedd.png
http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/image/image3/bleede.png

thanks, deermagnet. appreciate it.

correct me if i am wrong -

if i am simply changing pads, then i would not have to go through all 30 steps, right? would i start at point 18?

-jose

Turning a rotor usually makes it more prone to warping so unless it is scored badly, I wouldn't recommend it. And if you have to replace them, got with something other than stock.

Check your fluid and if it is anything other than clear, it's time to flush it to prevent damage to the entire brake system, especially the ABS module.

Don't forget to lubricate the 2 quide pins when you reattach the calipers - if those pins gum up, the caliper will not float back and forth and typically wears out one of the pads well before the other. Use caliper grease than can withstand the high temp.

Pad change shouldn't take you more than about 30 minutes a wheel with 2 wrenches (and a hammer as they are in tight), a prybar or c-clamp to push the pistons back in and patience - it's pretty straight forward.

Tone, sir - thank you!

-jose

Hey is anyone using R1 Concepts' Brake Rotors?
With their pads or OEM pads?
I need to get brakes done soon.
THANKS STEVE

Yeah, Biju just bought some rotors and I will be buying a set soon as well.

Bart

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Originally Posted by RAZ

Hey is anyone using R1 Concepts' Brake Rotors?
With their pads or OEM pads?
I need to get brakes done soon.
THANKS STEVE

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