Spurk Plugs

So my check engine light is on and has been on since early sept. Finally Pep-Boys narrowed it down to MAF sensor failure and the possible need for plugs. Well I installed the new MAF and the check engine light was off for about a half day and came back on.

For the plugs. I bought NKG iridium plugs 5456. The problem is I cant budge the pluggs out. I got one but the rest are jammed. I have a plugg wrench with a small T at the top for leverage. This is the first time I have changed my pluggs. I need some suggestions on how to get the plugs out. Is there another tool out there that is better? Oh and do I need to gap the 5456 NKG? If so I have never done that before. I have disconnected the battery to reset the cpu as well.

In conclusion I am just trying to get my engine light cleared and get the mpg I once was. RIP 18-20mpg..... Current no higher than 12-14...

I'm new to the VX, however I've found with my other cars, that when I changed the plugs, I would do this:
1) Start when the engine is completely cold (Get all setup).
2) Run it for about 1 minute.
3) Hurry up and remove the plugs using a ratchet & plug socket (regular socket will work, but the rubber insert in a plug socket helps keep things straight so you don't break a plug).

I'm sure others will chime in if I'm out of line for the VX.

I just used a ratchet and can't remember the size but a normal socket and some extensions, I remember them coming out pretty easily on mine, the only one that was a pain was the back right I believe, thats where you had to assemble the extensions within the deep hole that the spark plug is in.

Its all about leverage. You cannot get very much leverage with one of those. Try a ratchet and socket. shawn

Whatever you do, take your time and DO NOT use more leverage than a standard 3/8" ratchet.

When you reinstall, make sure to use some anti-seize thread treatment.

As for the right way to get them out, I can't remember, so I'm staying mum.

When re-installing, be VERY sure that the threads are engaged properly & not cross threaded before applying any torque with a wrench.
Turn em' in as far as possible by hand, then after you're sure the threads are catching, use the wrench.

Check your MAP sensor. My check engine light came on, I went to Auto Zone to have it read...... It was either my MAF sensor or MAP sensor. I replaced my MAP...... and the light went off. Hasnt come on since.

Also, besides the anti-seize thread compound, don't forget the lub for the sparkplug boot. Will make your life so much easier next time, trust me. ;)

Ok whats anti sieze and lub for the boot?


And where and what is the MAP sensor?

Anti seize is a product that you can get at any auto parts store, it prevents the sticking or "seizing" of the threads caused by teperature changes and the difference in metals when you try to remove your plugs the next time. As a by product, it makes it easier to install plugs by acting as a lube. (lub - e) I always use a small amount of dielectric grease(also available at auto parts stores) on the plug before reattaching the boot. no complaints 5+years.