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crager34
10/16/2006, 11:26 AM
Ok. I have my rear seat removed and love it. Now I am thinking of quieting the VX down a bit in the back only and on the floor. I have read about Dynamat, Brown Bead, Foam. What does the group here recommend?

biju
10/16/2006, 11:30 AM
Dynamat.

don't forget to do the rear wheel well humps, etc... ;)

-biju.

crager34
10/16/2006, 12:15 PM
I'm not planning on taking anything else out of the back, except the carpet, so I think about 20 sf should get the job done. Thanks for the recomendation.

biju
10/16/2006, 12:22 PM
I just mentioned the rear wheel well humps because when I dynamatted my VX I originally did just the entire driver/passenger area (bottom, top, door, door) and the rear floor of the VX.

Turned out that most of my road noise was coming from the wheel wells (really bad). Especially with the seats removed, it just resonated. Kind of defeated the purpose if I still had noise, so I had to buy more to cover those... It helped immensely.

Best of luck.

-biju.

Tone
10/16/2006, 01:15 PM
Dynamat Extreme topped with 1/2" Dynaliner or Extremeliner. I'm a DM dealer - let me know what you can get it for and I'll see if I can beat it.
http://dynamat.com/products_automotive_introduction.html

kpaske
10/16/2006, 01:27 PM
I personally prefer Brown Bread by BQuiet. The name is not as well known over here as Dynamat, but if you do your research you'll find that it's a superior product for a better price.

20 sq ft is hardly anything - probably enough to do both doors. To do it right, you'll need 50-100 sq ft minimum.

darkengineering
10/16/2006, 01:58 PM
Hey crager34, here is a link to site where someone did a comparison of a bunch of different types of deadener. It's a good read.

Sound Deadener Showdown (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/)

rowhard
10/16/2006, 04:27 PM
Can't wait to read the sound deadener showdown. In the mean time, here is another site to look at. M sure that Dynamat is good stuff, but wonder if there is some more affordable stuff out there, I hate paying for a name.

So I'm cheap

here is that site:

http://www.quietcar.net/?gclid=CNnBv6HepoYCFT64Igod-ROXUQ

iamjacksadrenalgland
10/16/2006, 04:36 PM
in about 3 weeks i'm going to be doing the whole cabin with raammat and an extra layer of ensolite on the floor. i'll be sure to post the results.

here's their website: RAAMaudio (http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr)

etlsport
10/16/2006, 04:45 PM
look on ebay, i bought 100sf of b-quiet ultimate (same company as brown bread) on ebay for 125 to my door

darkengineering
10/16/2006, 05:48 PM
As another cheap alternative, I've heard of people using an aluminum backed asphalt based product called Peel & Seal. It's cheap and supposedly very similiar to the name brand aluminum backed asphalt products.

It can be found at Lowes and possibly Home Depot (and other variants depending on your location).

Peel & Seal at Lowes (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625&pad=true)

SkidPlate
10/16/2006, 06:11 PM
A few months ago I did a complete interior application of B-Quiet Extreme.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_3318a.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_3318a.jpg)

Recently I picked up a roll of B-Quiet Ultimate (higher grade) to cover the noisy spots again and the hood.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_3717a.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_3717a.jpg)

Overall I am very happy with the B-Quiet products, and I will agree that eBay is the place to buy them.

technocoy
10/16/2006, 08:02 PM
For those of you who have done this in the VX, how much would you say it has helped? does it deaden the road noise by 50 percent or more?

I have used dynamat in car stereo applications years ago and it of course helped there, but the cars i applied it in then were very quite road -wise already... my sole reason for doing it in the VX would be to kill the road and wind noise.

WormGod
10/17/2006, 06:11 AM
For those of you who have done this in the VX, how much would you say it has helped? does it deaden the road noise by 50 percent or more?

I have used dynamat in car stereo applications years ago and it of course helped there, but the cars i applied it in then were very quite road -wise already... my sole reason for doing it in the VX would be to kill the road and wind noise.

One thing to keep in mind is, it does help to keep out exterior noise, but it also keeps IN interior noise, so whatever you are screaming at, listening to, or whoever is crying out in pleasure, will be secured within the vehicle more. Everything inside will "seem" louder and just the opposite from the exterior.

Exterior/road noise will only be dampened if you insulate the right areas. Just lifting the carpet will not do much if anything for this. You really need to get the entire rear compartment since it works like a un-insulated speaker box anyways. You will notice a difference if you do this. Its easy to do, just takes some time and energy. Some stereo install shops will do this work for you, but it wont be cheap.

Driving fully insulated adds the weight of a 5 year old child to your vehicle, but your ride will feel different afterwards. I used to think the difference was in my head, but it actually does take on a more tight and secure feel.

k4tmc
10/17/2006, 06:17 AM
But...where do you get the most "bang for the buck"? With the cost of deading material, and the effort to remove panels, just where do you put the most effort? The rear door is easy, just remove the spare tire. But is it really worth the effort there? Are the wheel well areas the place to start?

etlsport
10/17/2006, 06:57 AM
id be weary of sound deadening my hood, and front of my vehicle in general, i like to hear my engine and listen for those all important ticks and whines and squeals etc, especially on the VX

kpaske
10/17/2006, 09:13 AM
I don't care what you do, unless you drown it out with pure audio volume, you'll always be able to hear your engine and exhaust to some degree.

As far as bang for your buck goes, I think buying a large amount of a decent product is the best way to go. Cover as much surface area as possible, especially in the big echo chamber behind the doors.

Most of what is marketed as "sound damping" material does most of its work by reducing vibrations, so covering all of the large flat surfaces in the rear is the first place I started. The brown bread reduces vibrations, and I've got a foam/rubber based sound barrier product from the same manufacturer as a second layer over the floor in the rear to help reduce the sound from the road and my PV muffler.

I've got a very loud system. On full blast, standing outside with the doors closed, you can just barely make out the highs and lows, but it's not even loud enough to hear the vocals in most cases. Open that door and you can probably hear it from 500 feet away. Regardless, I still hear plenty of engine and exhaust noise unless I turn it way up. Remember, the glass windshield and windows will always allow some of the audio waves to pass through.

Oh, and BQuiet has a completely different, high-temp product designed for use under the hood.

etlsport
10/17/2006, 09:22 AM
thanks for the info, i was worried about not being able to hear my engine well enough to hear problems, ive never used sound dampener more than a square foot behind speakers... looks like i may be doing the front of the VX as well now

WormGod
10/17/2006, 01:44 PM
Hard to say since metal loves to carry vibration. You do any little place in the back, you may as well do it all. Wish I had a better solution for ya, heh.

SkidPlate
10/17/2006, 02:32 PM
Yeah, it is quite a task taking out the whole interior to apply this. But in my opinion it was well worth it. With the rear seat removed, the difference was dramatic. Everytime you close a door or hit 50+, the lack of noise is very satisfying.

And I would agree that this not only reduces road and wind noise but makes the overall ride experience feel much tighter. Almost like it's a new vehicle.


Oh, and B-Quiet Ultimate (http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html) is the replacement for Brown Bread, and can withstand high temperatures, such as under the hood.

I would say go for it, I love it. YMMV

kpaske
10/17/2006, 02:52 PM
Oh, and B-Quiet Ultimate (http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html) is the replacement for Brown Bread...That sucks, because IIRC, Brown Bread was rated higher than BQuiet Ultimate or Extreme. I'm guessing they dropped it because they were losing money on it - it really is much better than comparably priced products from other manufacturers.

crager34
10/19/2006, 08:52 AM
Not sure if it was a good deal or not, but I purchased four 18x32 sheets of Dynamat Extreem shipped for $80. Gonna start small.

SkidPlate
10/19/2006, 01:30 PM
Not sure if it was a good deal or not, but I purchased four 18x32 sheets of Dynamat Extreem shipped for $80. Gonna start small.

Let's see, that's about 15 sq ft @ $80 which is a little more than $5 a sq foot.

You can get B-Quiet Ultimate on eBay 50 sq ft @ $109, works out to a bit more than $2 a square foot. Plus you get a roller..which is crap, so no value there.

I've never used Dynamat so I can't say if it's really worth two and a half times what B-Quiet is, but I'll take my chances. :)

EDIT: Forgot the shipping for the B-Quiet; $25. So that would make it $2.68 a sq ft. Unless I suck a math.

crager34
10/19/2006, 01:53 PM
Yeah... I know there are less expensive products and that is why I started the thread. Seems like Dynamat is a tested product in our community (as our others), so I wanted to go with what seems to be the best.

Thanks for all the opinions and info.

Whaleboy
10/19/2006, 09:18 PM
I ended up using e-dead V3 by elemental designs.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=54

I believe I used almost 4 gallons with 2-3 coats thru most of the interior (including around/behind dash).. This was about 2 years ago so I'm a little fuzzy how much I used. Needless to say the results were excellent. Sounded almost as quiet as my friends older model bubbly lexus SUV. Could've made it even more quiet using a few extra coats but after removing all the paneling/carpet/dash I was in no hurry.

I spent a few months researching all the various sound dampening products. I wanted the best bang for the buck as I wasn't gonna waste a huge amount of money on something as silly as sound dampening material.

E-dead was eventually what I settled on. Most of the people that seemed to really have a good grasp on acoustics would repeatedly suggest liquid sound dampening products and e-dead especially. There was another in the same price range but essentially comprised of the same chemistry. Many of the numbers I would read and test results pointed to liquid dampeners being the superior type of sound deadener for in car use.

Pretty cool they sell it in black now, used to be only available in blue.

Certainly seemed much easier then dealing with dynamat, brown bread, and the like. I can only assume most people shy away from liquid deadeners due to their permenancy.. But after you apply the stuff trust me, you're not gonna want to remove it. EVER.

Just remember after all the fancy properties these so called sound dampeners have, the only real way to block noise is with MASS.

kpaske
10/20/2006, 08:38 AM
When I did my research I considered liquid products also, but I felt the application would be messier, and the biggest concern at the time was fumes - I'm not sure about e-dead, but the liquid products out at the time all released fumes as they dried. I don't remember whether the fumes were harmful or if they just smell bad, but I decided on the best "roll-on" product I could find. In retrospect, I think the roll-ons are pretty messy too, so if they've worked on the fume issue (or that is not a great concern for you - it was for me because i have two young kids), i certainly wouldn't rule out liquids if i had it to do over. You're right - roll-ons are just as permanent - plus you'll never want to take it off. You can't reuse it, and if it's covered by your carpet or interior panels, you pretty much forget that it's there.

Crager - unfortunately, with only 15 sq ft, you probably won't even be able to tell the difference. No doubt Dynamat is an effective product, but you need a lot of it, which is why a lot of us sought out comparable products for a lot less money.

WormGod
10/20/2006, 09:14 AM
I dont recall the name of the stuff, but I used a spray IN the tailgate. Thought it would be a good place to test it anyways. Sprayed on ok, but the nozzle clogged up far too often. It gummed up quite well in corners and such where products like Dynamat simply can not get to. Sealed corners up very well. Upon drying, it left a pretty good rubbery surface and almost reminded me of a fairly solid rocker shutz. The only down falls with the spray were the clogging nozzle, the need for protecting/masking off vehicle from overspray, and the cost of the stuff. Using it actually INSIDE of the vehicle would have been too risky with the overspray, and it leaves an afterspray stink for a couple weeks. Needless to say, the tailgate is about as solid as you can get now.

etlsport
10/28/2006, 03:00 PM
used the b-quiet today from ebay on the tailgate and drivers side door, i didnt notice a huge improvement on the tailgate, it was pretty tough to get into all the little nooks, the drivers side door was greatly improved, the sound when it closes is a gratifying thunk, havent driven it yet, once i do the pass door hopefully ill hear a diff in audio and road noise

a warning.. id reccomend wearing gloves.. that foil backing gave me a few nasty cuts!h

crager34
10/29/2006, 04:01 PM
Ok. I got the rear deck done, down to the back seat foot landing with 3 1/3 of the 4 sheets I had. It is actually a bit quieter in the cab. How do I know? I was talking with my mom and told her I was driving. We continued to chat for a bit then she said I must be parked, and I wasn't. So, you can "do it right" with just the rear deck, but if you want even more dampening, then do the wheel well humps, front doors, front floor, heck the whole car.

Of course having a PV1 muffler doesn't help the noise much, but again there is a different with what I have done. Most likely I will get more sometime to do the rest of the VX... ya know... to "do it right".

Navigator
10/31/2006, 07:25 AM
Hind sight is 20/20. The VX is not a rattle box like some vehicles can be. Get the license plate kit first and apply it to the rear licesne plate. Also do not use any type of frame on the rear license plate and secure it directly to the VX. Blast your stereo louder than you can stand it then step outside of the VX. Listen for rattles. If you find any, then Dynamat that problem area. Chances are good you won't need more.

kpaske
10/31/2006, 10:07 AM
Get the license plate kit...
DOH! I forgot about that. Yeah, ditto what he said. If you have subs pushing any power at all it'll vibrate the heck out of your rear plate. You won't hear it inside, but you'll sound like a 17 year old ricer from 1/2 a block away (THUD-THUD-BUZZZZZT, THUD-THUD-BUZZZZZT...).

I personally didn't use any type of kit - I just took some extra foam and rubber sound damping material, cut it slightly smaller than the plate, stuck 4 holes through it, and attached it behind my plate. No more clanging plate. Any foam or rubber should work. Heck, a piece of cardboard would work. But whatever you do, don't forget the plate! :D