View Full Version : 2001 Ironman $5k (Need T-Case Work) - Grand Junction, CO

07/04/2017, 03:06 PM

- Clean and in fair/good shape; 129,895 Miles.
- 2nd owner; purchased early 2004.
- Needs transfer case rebuild; bolt failed inside and punctured case near drain plug, causing fluid to leak out.
- Vehicle can be test driven at low speeds to verify full functionality.

Click below link

Click below link

Email Jon at my2001vehicross@gmail.com, or send PM.

$5,000; will consider reasonable offers.


Any service history records?

Timing belt, water pump, serpentine 2010.
Some fluid replacement receipts/records (tranny, t-case, differentials) 2010.
Last tire purchase 2011.
CV boot replacement 2012 & 2014.
Battery 2016.
Other miscellaneous.

How long have you owned it?

13 years (early 2004)

Electric windows work properly or bind?

Both work fine.
Right passenger window has been repaired; both plastic window holders broke and repaired with JB weld.

Condition of window rubber track/gaskets...(many have ripped or been cut)

No problems.

Look behind door panels to see if vapor barrier is present - (may indicate previous work on windows)

Vapor barriers removed to grease and repair window tracks.

Window regulator /motor been replaced?

No. Both work well.

SBC brackets ever installed on windows?

No; see above

Any oil consumption noted, under ANY conditions? (some seem to consume a little when on prolonged highway driving)

Max 1 quart consumption within oil change when driving I-70 mountain passes at 70mph + (i.e., 3k miles on 5W-30 Valvoline).

Chrome wheels peeling? (many peeled on the inner side)

No. In good shape; no cube rash, or damage.

ABS - Any ABS light problems? Make sure ABS light comes on when key is first turned to ON position. If not, could a problem and / or bulb has been removed. Note, many have disconnected ABS system, or never repaired it when it went out, and truck seems to function fine (just no ABS).

Yes. ABS light on since 2009; have serviced brakes multiple times since, including flush in 2012.

OEM CD player still work correctly or ERR3 code? Any jammed CDs?

No. Works ok.

Any problems with TOD?

No; however, T-Case requires overhaul/replacement.
A bolt apparently failed inside and slightly cracked/punctured case near drain plug; bolt has been removed. Vehicle drivable at low speeds. Personally never seen anything like this on any AWD/4WD vehicle...

Any clunking when decelerating or accelerating?


Brand & model of tires & approx tread remaining

Yokohama YK520 4-season performance; 50%+

Do all 4 tires match in brand, size, model, AIR PRESSURE & wear? (TOD system will often make severe clunking noises if all 4 aren't pretty "equal" in all these terms)

Yes; all is normal.

How long have these current 4 tires been on?

Mid 2011; have record. Always stored indoors and air pressure checked routinely.

Timing belt changed?

Yes; have record.

Original OEM brake pads or replacements?

Peformance Carquest Organic I believe; have record.

Any fluids dripping, ever?

Not noticed; except T-Case failure.

Last time & what fluids have been changed?

11/2016 Engine Oil; have record.

What type of fluids (synthetic oil or regular, motor oil, diff, tranny, transf case)?

Valvoline products only and Isuzu additives where required (i.e., diffs, TOD, etc.); have some records.

Evaluate/describe condition of all cladding - scrapes, holes, deformation, dryness, chalky appearance, any evidence of being "painted" in any way?

Normal wear and tear; would look great with plastic moulding conditioning and may give free bottle (i.e., Meguiars All Black).

Are all cladding screws present? Any striped?

All ok.

Condition of 4 screw knobs on inside rear door panel (often break off)

All ok.

Condition of inside door opening handle/levers & mechanism (sometimes broken)

All ok.

Any unusual /excessive vibrations - very subjective of course

No vibrations noted during last highway test drive one week ago; even with failed T-Case.
Hum coming from TOD/T-Case when accelerating.

Any problems with motor mounts?

Determine the history of the car's physical location, if possible (i.e. East Coast, potential rust, desert sun (UV), etc)

2001-2003 Pennsylvania
2004-Current Colorado

Inspect thoroughly for rust!! Any evidence of rusted bolts anywhere?
Is rear gas tank skid plate or tail pipe showing rust?

Surface rust on undercarriage.

Status of front bumper reinforcement bar? (Often rusts off completely)


Status of rear license plate light/socket/bracket -(often severely rusts) -will give indication if it was in a rust belt area

Bolts have been drilled and extracted.

Condition of paint - Describe. (fading, chipping, scratches, repainted areas)

Normal wear and tear.

Condition of hood insert - Describe. (very often cracked)


Condition of plastic headlight housings - any crazing, fogged, cracked, etc...or been restored/polished, etc....(very often cloudy/fogged)

Need to be buffed; typical Colorado fade.

Rubber headlight gaskets- present at all?, ripped, condition

Present, but need to be adhered back.

Evaluate engine bay- clean? dirty? Any evidence of leaking fluids (old or new) of any type?? Evaluate fluid levels.

Clean. No leaks; proper levels.

Evaluate air filter- excessively dirty? OEM or after-market?

Aftermarket and just washed and oiled.

Has muffler ever been replaced? What's the status of the current muffler?
Rusted, surface rust, etc? OEM, after-market?

No. In normal condition; no apparent rust.

Has it had to go through emissions testing recently? (Some states require for registration, some don't)

2014 in Denver; no problems. Now live in non-emission county.

Ever been lifted or torsion bars cranked?


Condition of CV joints? (Can be damaged after being lifted)

Good. Boots replaced and joints repacked with grease in 2012/2014; have records.

Battery- status, condition and age

New 2016.

Any unusual flashing of any lights on dash or shifter?

No; Winter and Power mode switches work normally.

Any odors inside, such as smoke?

No. Non-smoker.

Condition of leather seats...scrapes, rips, tears, wear, abrasion, driver's side seat bolster

Normal wear; no tears, or cracks. Could use nice leather treatment.

Condition of center console padded armrest -(very often cracked and split where driver's elbow has rested on it)


Condition of leather steering wheel - (often heavily scraped up)

Normal wear; no tears, or cracks. Could use nice leather treatment.

Condition of levers that bring seat back forward to allow access to rear seats (often broken)


Does it have an OEM roof rack?


Are OEM rail caps in place and/or available?


Ever taken off road?


OEM or after-market tail pipe?


Status of tail pipe - any deformation may indicate off road use


Status of rear lower cladding & rear gas tank skid plate- scrapes may indicate off road use


Status of undercarriage overall - scrapes, damage, etc... may indicate off road use

No damage, but surface rust from Colorado Mag-Chloride.

Any known repairs?


Any extra parts on hand?

New Peak heavy duty winter wipers.

Any modifications done previously that have now been removed? Describe.



07/14/2017, 10:16 AM
Ladies and Gents,

Do you feel this is priced accurately?

I'd like some suggestions for Craigslist pricing. Obviously NDA/Kelly aren't accurate for these limited quantity vehicles, especially given internet price history for these vehicles over past year.

07/14/2017, 11:04 AM
If you want best possible return, I think you should fix it first. Broken/non-functional vehicles tend to bring less than fair value (even considering repair cost). That's because the "unknown factor" plays a bigger role.

07/14/2017, 11:22 AM
Thanks for great suggestion, 89Vette. I've highly considered this.

Any suggestions on where I could find a good working vehicross T-Case? I don't have time to rebuild, or replace with a non-standard Trooper T-Case.

07/14/2017, 09:21 PM
Don't see why a Trooper w/TOD won't work as they literally have the same drive train. My 99 Trooper 5MT fits just fine with my VX t-case. The shape isn't the same, but the parts bolt together just fine.

07/15/2017, 05:55 AM
Trooper TOD does work, replaced ours couple years back.