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RabidPony
10/08/2013, 06:15 AM
Anyone know the size of the upper ball joint castle nut?
tom4bren
10/09/2013, 06:03 AM
I can't find the size but the P/N is 9991164180 & lists for $3.03 in the parts list. Call Merlin to see if he has any in stock. He may also be able to tell you what size it is.

BTW, this info is on pdf page 8 of the parts list (shows page 1760 on the page). It's item # 36 on image 4628195 of that page.

Hopefully you can get the castle nut withoug buying the whole ball joint.
RabidPony
10/09/2013, 06:56 AM
Thanks Tom. I actually just need to know the outside size so I can buy a box end wren h to fit it. Didn t want to have to break down the suspension just to try different sockets on it.
tom4bren
10/09/2013, 08:54 AM
OK, that's a different story entirely. I'll see if I can get a wrench on one tonight & let you know. I'm running the HD ball joints from Indy so mine are different (probably) but Boy's VX still has OEM ball joints.

Remember that getting the castle nut off is the easy part. Breaking the ball joint apart is another matter all together. I highly recommend you get a decent pitman arm puller to use. DO NOT use a ball joint fork.

G'ahead. Ask me how I know.
Triathlete
10/09/2013, 09:24 AM
The nut probably won't be that tight (cotter pin keeps it secure), a good big adjustable should do fine. Thats what I used.
tom4bren
10/09/2013, 11:56 AM
The nut probably won't be that tight (cotter pin keeps it secure), a good big adjustable should do fine. Thats what I used.

According to the shop manual, the castle nut is supposed to be torqued to 72 ft-lbs. That's a bit much for a cresent wrench.
Triathlete
10/09/2013, 03:06 PM
Well then...maybe I didn't! It's been a while :)
tom4bren
10/09/2013, 03:36 PM
Nah, you prolly did. IIRC I used a box end on mine & it worked. I just didn't read that it was supposed to be torqued when installing ... till I was done.:)
Marlin
10/09/2013, 05:44 PM
Whoa, no pitman puller needed! Just hit the control arm where the taper goes in and it will pop loose after you remove the castle nut. Don't hit the ball joint itself, its too cheap, but the control arm is diesel. It will take a pretty good whack to get it off, but it works like a champ. Learned that at a Uwharrie meet from Joe D or Peter, I don't remember which.