Drivers Side CV/Axle Assembly

[ariastwin]

I have been trying to find a replacement drivers side axle assembly (reman or new) but have only been able to find the passengers side. Can anyone tell me where I can find one?

[UWVX89]

I have the same issue was gonna post this exact same post today. My driver side axle inner and outer need replaced really bad and the only person I can find that can get them is Isuzu in which they are $900.00 which I do not have. I'm also hoping someone can tell us how or where to find a replacement for the driver side CV Inner and outer all together.

[UWVX89]

I have currently been looking up front axle assembly in scrap yards because the parts would be all there it would just be a process of applying them to my diff or just swapping out the whole axle assy.

[ariastwin]

I contact A-Cardone, they do remans through Rockauto and they told me that the following retailers will ship your original to them to reman the part and it takes 5 to 7 days to get it back to you. Here they are: NAPA, CARQUEST or O’REILLY’S. The rep told me they will quote you the price at the store, worth looking into unless someone can get us info for part that is way less expensive that buying it from Isuzu. I'm thinking shouldn't be more than 80-90 bucks to reman.

[VXorado]

You guys are on the right track. I just posted this to another thread last week.


You don't want EMPI 80-1039, it will fit the passenger side but the inner cup is changed to a tripod CV vs. the OEM rzeppa style.


I had the "clever" idea to change out both inner CVs with EMPI tripod CV, thinking it would be stronger and available aftermarket. I found that they bind whenever the front suspension drops, causing noise & clunking. I ended up finding replacement inner cvs at the junkyard and switching back to OEM.

If the inner CV cup is worn & ruined, the only options are using a new/used OEM inner shaft or getting one rebuilt.


If you need to source either inner CV from a junkyard, they're called a "jack shaft" and as Mark said, the drivers side is longer. Any later year Trooper without SOTF with work. SOTF is a 4x4 engage system and eliminates the long drivers side jack shaft. You can easily see the SOTF on the axle.

Good luck. ;)

[UWVX89]

VXorado...
Yeah that's the same thing I was getting out of the whole deal. My inner is gone and it is easier to find a whole axle assy then replacing just the inner cv. So I'm gonna buy a whole Assy and just sell the rest, possibly send my inner cv driver side away to see if it can be rebuilt and then find someone who needs it.

[UWVX89]

Do you have any insight on the diff drop kit and where to fid one, this would greatly help my CV's from wearing since I have the 3" lift.

You guys are on the right track. I just posted this to another thread last week.

[VXorado]

Joe Darlington maybe? possibly Indy4x? or even a local shop.

I made my own 2" diff drop brackets a couple years ago because i couldn't find anyone making them. I know all about CVs because I destroyed both sides with too much lift. It's definitely a good idea to look into if you're going to have the front end dropped anyways.

[ariastwin]

@VXorado- Great information. According to A-Cardone, they recommend keeping the original inner housing in place and just replacing the axle assembly, this way you don't have to tear the t-case apart to remove the housing, they also state that it saves about 2.5hrs reusing the inner housing. I found another shop online that claims he has both left and right side assemblies already refurbed for 90/ea. I shot the shop an email to see if the site is correct about having both sides, I will post here once I get a response.

[UWVX89]

90 seems a little cheap to replace both sides from what I have researched.

[VXorado]

They say just to replace the half shaft and I agree, it's much easier to install than entire assembly. If the inner boot it ripped and you've developed vibration/clicking, there's a good chance the inner CV "cup" is worn and replacing just the half shaft won't help. If the outer boot is ripped (close to wheel), replacing just the half shaft will probably fix the problem. In that case, search Google for EMPI 80-3619. They're decent aftermarket half shafts and cost around $60 (per side).

EMPI Halfshaft
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQXJRvzV36b4-Sy89s68cCW7X8AgXouxWf2Zad1XyLaW79Jh3Ds


OEM Half shaft + Jack shaft
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r500/VXorado/108_2821.jpg

[tom4bren]

Joe Darlington maybe? possibly Indy4x? or even a local shop.

I made my own 2" diff drop brackets a couple years ago because i couldn't find anyone making them. I know all about CVs because I destroyed both sides with too much lift. It's definitely a good idea to look into if you're going to have the front end dropped anyways.

Nobody sells them retail. Joe can set you up but IIRC he's not on the forum all that much so send him an email instead of just a PM. If need be, I can still get them done but I'd rather let Joe do it.

I was able to get a complete axle set from a boneyard in OK several years ago that a local shop used to canabalize parts from to rebuild mine. Unfortunately, after my accident, the shop used all of the remaining pieces to rebuild them again so I don't have anything left to help Y'all out.

We were trying to get an aftermarket shop to build us a bulletproof set but it never panned out ... & they were going to be $900 per side anyway.

[ariastwin]

That is 90 for each side.

[evillecutter]

They say just to replace the half shaft and I agree, it's much easier to install than entire assembly. If the inner boot it ripped and you've developed vibration/clicking, there's a good chance the inner CV "cup" is worn and replacing just the half shaft won't help. If the outer boot is ripped (close to wheel), replacing just the half shaft will probably fix the problem. In that case, search Google for EMPI 80-3619. They're decent aftermarket half shafts and cost around $60 (per side).

EMPI Halfshaft
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQXJRvzV36b4-Sy89s68cCW7X8AgXouxWf2Zad1XyLaW79Jh3Ds


OEM Half shaft + Jack shaft
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r500/VXorado/108_2821.jpg

what's that blue stuff?

[VXorado]

A blue paper towel from when I was cleaning out the old grease.

[evillecutter]

gotcha ;)

[UWVX89]

If anyone would be willing to search local junk yards for a Fromt axle Assembly, that would be great. After traveling to the two I found near Madison, WI I have found both assemblies stripped of needed parts (Drivers side inner cv/jack shaft) and therefore unuseful. I want to purchase one an have it shipped to me but only if someone can guarantee the parts needed are there. Yards won't send me pictures so I am struggling to know what is on each one I find.

Please help!

[ariastwin]

@UWVX89- I have a lead with a parts shop here in the twin cities and they may be able to order me a reman with both inner and outer joints. As soon as I hear back from them I will post here with cost and contact information if they come through.

[UWVX89]

Sounds good man, Let me know cause I been looking around and can't find anything.

[Mel94dB]

I just bought a driver's side axle assembly from my local Advance Auto in VA for about $70.

[Mel94dB]

I just bought one for $70 and am in the process of replacing it. It looks just like the one I took out of my VX yesterday. I had to call the Advance Auto store and the manager found it for me in their database. Unfortunately, the oil seal behind the big bracket was destroyed in the process so I hope they have one of those as well.

I have a question for anyone who has done this replacement - If I can get a new seal, will it all go back in the way it came out or is there special wisdom to reinstalling this beast? Also, I plan to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Do I need the special tool that the shop manual shows or can I use normal tools? Thanks!!

[Joe Darlington]

Do you have any insight on the diff drop kit and where to fid one, this would greatly help my CV's from wearing since I have the 3" lift.

If you are replacing CV's and have a 3" lift, this is the perfect time to do the Diff Drop and new Crossmember, otherwise your probably going to wear out the new CV's in a few months (or at least the boots). I have a few sets ready to ship on Monday if interested.

Joe D

[Joe Darlington]

I just bought a driver's side axle assembly from my local Advance Auto in VA for about $70.

I usually get "Fenco" reman shafts from Advance Auto, have had pretty good luck with them.

[Joe Darlington]

I just bought one for $70 and am in the process of replacing it. It looks just like the one I took out of my VX yesterday. I had to call the Advance Auto store and the manager found it for me in their database. Unfortunately, the oil seal behind the big bracket was destroyed in the process so I hope they have one of those as well.

I have a question for anyone who has done this replacement - If I can get a new seal, will it all go back in the way it came out or is there special wisdom to reinstalling this beast? Also, I plan to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Do I need the special tool that the shop manual shows or can I use normal tools? Thanks!!

after you have the axle bracket out, the only thing special you need is a pair of snap-ring plyers and 2 large screwdivers to pop the bearing off the axle shaft. The axle bearing and oil/grease seal are held in by snap rings.

[UWVX89]

The problem for me is I need the inner CV parts which go into the Diff. The outer shaft is fine my problems are from the inner CV and housing which the longer driver side (Jack shaft) is damaged.

[UWVX89]

Once I can locate a front axle assembly with operating parts and can get everything I need I am going to contact Darlington for the diff drop and have it all installed at the same time.

[PK]

I just bought one for $70 and am in the process of replacing it. It looks just like the one I took out of my VX yesterday. I had to call the Advance Auto store and the manager found it for me in their database. Unfortunately, the oil seal behind the big bracket was destroyed in the process so I hope they have one of those as well.

I have a question for anyone who has done this replacement - If I can get a new seal, will it all go back in the way it came out or is there special wisdom to reinstalling this beast? Also, I plan to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Do I need the special tool that the shop manual shows or can I use normal tools? Thanks!!

While you are replacing / repacking the wheel bearings, don't forget to do the needle roller bearing inside the hub.

PK

[tom4bren]

after you have the axle bracket out, the only thing special you need is a pair of snap-ring plyers and 2 large screwdivers to pop the bearing off the axle shaft. The axle bearing and oil/grease seal are held in by snap rings.

All true. I also used a short length of heavy PVC pipe to use as a slide hammer to gently persuade the bearings back onto the axle.

All of the info and pix you'll need are located here:

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=49