Front skid- pics of lower attachment points [Text View]

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VX KAT

04/14/2011, 06:00 PM

Took some close up pics of the lower two attachment points for the "Ron" skid plate. I used a 50mm bolt to demonstrate the severe angle and how far off the holes are. The white plastic thing zip-tied, on the driver's side, is from my PIAA lights that I've removed.
Mav - did yours look like this?
Ideas? Dub or can somebody draw me a diagram of the "bridge" idea you mentioned...l don't think I'm clear on that (for the front or the rear plate).

I put the pics in a picasaweb album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/114757442466168457700/FrontSkidPlateBottomScrewAttachmentPoints?authkey= Gv1sRgCID6q5ymz_HnvAE&feat=directlink

vt_maverick

04/14/2011, 07:12 PM

Sue - It looks like your passenger side is the one that's farthest away right? When I first put my plate on the holes were about that far from each other and I was like WTF... I ended up pushing HARD on the bottom of the plate with my left hand while I turned the bolt by hand with my right until it caught the threads. It looks to me like one side of your plate isn't all the way on - maybe you need to wiggle it back and forth to get it to fit right? I think you mentioned putting spacers and what-not behind the plate to protect the cladding - maybe you have too much of that?

I dunno, very weird. Have you tried the rear plate yet? If you think the front is hard... :noy:

ron

04/14/2011, 08:54 PM

Wow VX Kat! I checked out your pics and I really don't understand why the angle of the misalignment is so far off. It looks like a good 1-2" off center! Usually it would be around .25"-.5" but not that much. I really think your mounting bracket (where the screws go into) have been pushed inward too far and need to be pushed back out. I really wished you were closer so I can remove the cladding and examine and adjust the brackets myself. Sorry to see you're having so much trouble just with the front plate. The rear is a bit more challenging but doable.

ron

04/14/2011, 09:00 PM

I believe this bracket needs to be pulled out a bit. You may need to remove the front cladding to get to it. I don't have a VX any more to reference off of. So, I can't really recall if there's anything else in front of the foam padding area (in front of the bracket) that would block you from doing this. Maybe someone has a pic fromt he front of the foam padding with the cladding off?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeQxGFGoQI/AAAAAAAAAOs/9puaZ9OvlgU/s720

VX KAT

04/14/2011, 09:25 PM

Thanks Ashley & Ron. I think tomorrow I'll try loosening the top two like you described and try wiggling it around. I'll take the rubber washers off if I have to.

Ron, the distance from hole to hole on center is about 1".

Also, during my extended search for slightly longer flange bolts (with a thread pitch of like 2!) for installing the JDM mudflaps,:rollo: (Oh that's another story....)..... I discovered that nifty parts book Napa has, where they've shrink wrapped samples of all nuts/bolts/clips etc in a book. I can get all kinds of "retaining clips"...those little things the top 2 screws go into in the license plate area. Maybe I can find a different clip (maybe stronger too) that will let me angle the plate down a few hairs or something....making it get closer to alignment, then push like he!! on the bottom edge like you did, hopefully catching the threads.

I have about 3/4" from the skid hole to the edge of the plate...if I have to elongate that hole with a file, how much can I go...maybe 1/4"? What's the minimum amount I should leave for strength? If this hole is going to be under extra pressure with the bolt really applying force to the one edge, I don't really want to remove much of that plastic....I would guess?

I'm also thinking I should drill the skid hole a tiny bit larger, so I can get a latex tubing "sleeve" (like LDub did) on it for extra abrasion protection, since I "think" this bolt is going to end up being under pretty good pressure on the one edge.

Ron your idea is probably really the best one, move that bracket a little toward the rear, and push on the plate really hard. Or maybe Luna's idea of a slide hammer to persuade that bracket to move a little.

Maybe after a few Chocolate Munkees on the stoop, and AFTER some wheeling, and some more alcoholic beverages, some of the gang on the stoop will be ready to rip in to the front bumper. Get that bracket moved, plate installed and send me on my way home!

Thoughts?

Ldub

04/14/2011, 09:30 PM

Maybe after a few Chocolate Munkees on the stoop, and AFTER some wheeling, and some more alcoholic beverages, some of the gang on the stoop will be ready to rip in to the front bumper. Get that bracket moved, plate installed and send me on my way home!

Thoughts?

It could happen...:yesgray:

Ldub

04/14/2011, 09:33 PM

Dub or can somebody draw me a diagram of the "bridge" idea you mentioned...l don't think I'm clear on that (for the front or the rear plate).

Draw a rectangle with a hole in each end...done.

..:smilewink

VX KAT

04/14/2011, 09:36 PM

Draw a rectangle with a hole in each end...done.

..:smilewink
oh, gee, I think I can understand that :mbrasd:....but when you were talking about it the other day on the phone it sounded different...so I thought I'd ask...:mbrasd:

VX KAT

04/14/2011, 09:39 PM

I So, I can't really recall if there's anything else in front of the foam padding area (in front of the bracket) that would block you from doing this. Maybe someone has a pic fromt he front of the foam padding with the cladding off?

I just added a few pics to the picasaweb album of a few shots I have with the front cladding just slightly down, maybe it will show what you're looking for, not sure?

ron

04/14/2011, 09:48 PM

VX KAT

04/14/2011, 09:54 PM

Sue.. I checked out your additional pics. Is that one bracket with the bumpstop at top, the same bracket that extends all the way down to meet the bottom cladding screw mount? It appears this way but not sure if that's the case or not. If it is the same bracket, I suggest removing the cladding entirely to pull out the bracket farther forward enough to re-align the screw holes with the plate. If not, you may need to remove the cladding anyway to get a closer look at this bottom bracket and make the adjustment then. ron
I can try to figger' it out tomorrow...but anybody else know? I believe he's referring to the vertical black metal bracket with the rubber bumpstop on top of it. Can see in that one shot it does go down pretty far.....will have to check.

MSHardeman

04/15/2011, 08:03 AM

Sue, I think Ron is right about pulling the lower cladding mount out a bit. If you've been to Moab, and I know that you have :biggringr, you have probably pushed those mounts back a little bit. They are just flimsy pieces of metal used to hold the bottom of the cladding in place. I've bent them around a couple of time just pulling the front cladding off, or tryin to put it back on. You can really just leave the cladding on and give the bracket a good tug toward the front of the VX and it should move with no problem.

VX KAT

04/15/2011, 08:14 AM

If you've been to Moab, and I know that you have :biggringr, you have probably pushed those mounts back a little bit. They are just flimsy pieces of metal used to hold the bottom of the cladding in place. I've bent them around a couple of time just pulling the front cladding off, or tryin to put it back on. You can really just leave the cladding on and give the bracket a good tug toward the front of the VX and it should move with no problem.

I would have thought my Bull Bar took any impact :_thinking....but who knows....plus there's always the "hand-built" aspect we so frequently see.....

Luna X

04/15/2011, 08:43 AM

I would think that at some point in the 10 year life of the VX, the front end may have had a little love tap or 2.....

with that said, I would definately be pulling the brackets outward. If I remember, those brackets shouldn't need any special tools... just grab at the bottom and give'em a good pull.

sometimes a little persuasion is needed to get things to fit....;)

VX KAT

04/15/2011, 08:46 AM

VX KAT

04/15/2011, 07:56 PM

IDEA!!! Ding Ding Ding Ding!

Tried getting the lower front skid bolts in...no luck yet...BUT, had a brainstorm while lying there staring at it!

Forget using the existing holes completely!

~Drill completely NEW holes in the FLAT section of the skid, right next to the the raised area where the current hole is. Then also make a new hole into the cladding in direct alignment. Note in this area how the plate AND the cladding are very close together...will be so easy to drill new holes there.
(Suggestions for pilot hole size or technique on this ABS plate??)

~They're about 3" - 4" away from the original holes.

~There's some room behind that area of cladding so I can easily get a washer and a nut on, OR

~Buy some "retaining clips" (just like the two in the license plate area hold the top of the skid in place.) Slid it over the bottom edge of the cladding.

~These clips give the screw some threads to hang on to, and spread the forces out over the clip, making it maybe a bit stronger (?)

~There's 3 flat sections along the bottom of the skid, put a screw/clip/nut in each one. Plate will have a total of 5 screws now instead of 4.

WILL IT WORK???? Thoughts??

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeTW57B-WI/AAAAAAAAASU/f25K6uUWSzU/s640/DSCF3970.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeTH5t0H5I/AAAAAAAAAQg/KTzatcBZHIQ/s640/DSCF3968.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeSEcIqOiI/AAAAAAAAAPs/U4uY0cL1CMI/s512/DSCF3955.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeRpzBSM8I/AAAAAAAAAPU/nIAISbHFCsA/s640/DSCF3946.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeRN8IQWSI/AAAAAAAAAPA/wJszVuXVrmI/s640/DSCF3938.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_nqQ1upIL1mE/TaeQgzfsz8I/AAAAAAAAAOk/surA6r-eF-Y/s640/DSCF3934.JPG

vt_maverick

04/16/2011, 08:13 AM

Sue - check your PM.

rowhard

04/16/2011, 04:06 PM

Sue, think what ever one is saying must be so, the bracket is bent. I also had somewhat of a time with mine (one of Ron's). What I have done in the past, is just start the bottom two bolts to hold everthing in place, then pressing in the center with the knee, the curvature would open up enough to get the license plate bolts started, then tighten them evenly. Have it warmed up to make it more supple. That said, I think maybe bring the bracket forward will help, but try this before you go to the trouble of taking the front cladding off.